26. Unclip negative battery cable from holder on battery tray.

27. Unclip harness from under battery tray, and remove battery tray.

28. Put all 7 bolts back in, bolting the grounds right back down.

29. Remove throttle and cruise (if equipped) control cable from TB backet.

30. Unplug TPS sensor

31. Unplug IACV harness and EGR vacuum connection

32. Pull vacuum connections out of UIM. Using a flat screwdriver, press down on the button insert, and pull out the line at the same time. Do this right, and it will slide right out.

33. Unplug fuel rail vacuum line.

34. Remove PCV vacuum connection to UIM (not pictured, but directly under TB).

35. Unplug vacuum canister harness and vacuum line, and two other vacuum connections from behind UIM.

36. Remove vacuum assembly from car.

37. Remove EGR bolts - two 10mm.

38. Remove the six 8mm UIM bolts.

39. Remove UIM from car.

40. Disconnect fuel rail pressure sensor by pulling up on the red lock, then pressing and pulling (or Fuel Pressure Regulator on return-style cars).

41. Disconnect fuel rail. Normally you'd use a fuel line disconnect tool, but the one I needed is missing :-/ I unbolted the rail instead of using the disconnect. *return style will have two lines, different sizes*

42. Unhook PCV, move all to side of engine bay.

43. All three lines from Coolant tank, unplug sensor, remove tank from car - two 10mm bolts.

44. Move top hose over to top of engine, as it will come out with hose assembly we remove next

45. Disconnect radiator hose assembly from top radiator (see pics) remove from car. You will make another mess doing this.

 

46. Unbolt ground cable from starter bracket bolt - one 13mm, and from trans bolt - one 13mm.

47. Disconnect cable from starter - one 10mm nut, one 13mm nut, and move to the side.

48. Remove cap from Megafuse at rear valve cover, remove starter end connection - one 13mm. This is almost impossible to see in the car, so I took the picture after the engine was out. I do it from the top, but you may have better success from underneath.

You don't need to pull the suspension to get the axles out, but I normally do because I usually replace the wheel bearings, lower control arms, and endlinks while it's already apart. I pull it all as one assembly...it only takes a few minutes.

49. Remove brake caliper bolts - two 15mm bolts, brake line bracket on strut - one 15mm.

50. Hang caliper, NEVER let it hang by the brake line.

51. Remove rotor

52. Remove tie rod end from spindle - one 15mm. Use the nut to not damage threads

53. Remove endlink from mount on strut - one 15mm (you can put a wrench behind it).

54. Remove Axle nut - one 32mm.

55. Remove ball joint pinch bolt - one 18mm and one 15mm.

56. Use a pry bar to pop ball joint out of the spindle.

57. Thread axle nut over axle and tap on that to save axle threads.

58. Remove top strut nut - one 18mm, remove strut/spring/spindle assembly and set aside.

59. Repeat for other side.

60. Remove plastic shields on Pass side - 10mm bolts.

61. Remove two 13mm nuts on jackshaft support and pull out pass side axle, carrier bearing, and jackshaft as one unit.

62. Remove Driver’s side axle (rent or buy an axle puller for this, or you can use a pry bar).

63. Front Roll resistor – two 15mm nuts on bottom, three 13mm bolts into block.

64. Rear Roll resistor – four 15mm bolts to remove insert, three 13mm bolts to remove bracket.

With that was out of the way, I can see a hole in the block from a thrown rod:

 

65. Y-pipe – two 15mm nuts on front manifold and rear manifold each, one 17mm holding Y-pipe up, 2 or 3 on flange (optional) Or let it hang supported by a bungee cord across the subframe. Unclip front o2 sensor, unplug rear one.

66. Remove starter - two 13mm bolts into trans, one 13mm into bracket into trans (from ground)

67. Unbolt main wiring harness junction by brake booster and tuck up on engine - one 10mm bolt.

68. Unclip slave cylinder hydraulic line (one clip SAVE), pull line up out of shift cable bracket.

69. Tie or attach slave cylinder line, fuel line, heater hoses, vacuum line, and battery cables to side of engine bay and by brake booster to keep them out of the way.

70. Shift cables – remove one rear 13mm nut, pry off cable, remove second front 13mm nut, pry off second cable, pull bracket off studs and move assembly over on top of steering rack with care.

71. Unbolt Coolant crossover tube – leave in car, unbolt from block and AC lines. one 13mm by water pump, one 10mm by dipstick tube (get from underneath).

72. AC Pump – shield is two 10mm nuts, pump is three 10mm bolts (long). Pull pump and crossover tube away from block, let pump rest on subframe or tie up. Unplug top o2 sensor (wire around tube)

73. Pull up on PS reservoir to remove and access main harness ECU connection, move to the side. Unscrew one 10mm bolt on ECU harness (bolt will not come out).

 

74. Unplug PS sensor, unbolt PS line (use 21mm and 18mm wrench together), unbolt line bracket from engine mount (one 8mm bolt). Use pliers to squeeze clamp and remove other PS line. Move lines to the side.

75. Connect chains to engine (one to front hook, rear bolt threaded into block next to alt bracket). Slide hoist into position and put some lift on it.

76. Remove pass side engine mount assembly - four 18mm on top, three 15mm into inner fender.

77. Remove drivers side trans mount - three 18mm nuts on top, three 15mm bolts into inner fender.

78. Carefully lift out the engine. You will need to adjust and swing it back and forth some...making sure it clears everything. If it isn't lifting smoothly out, it's caught on something. So take your time, and watch carefully. I always do it by myself, but an extra set of eyes and hands would be helpful here.

Good luck!

 

Thanks. Great Post with Pictures.

 

Awesome write up Wade.



Now if only there was a guide on how to reinstall. :rofl:

 

Thanks for the awesome how to. Made the removal of the power plant from my CSVT a lot easier.

 

Glad I could help.

 

thank you so much.

 

This is an awesome write up, with way more photos then i think ive ever seen in any write ups Removing my first cougar motor today(finish tomorrow i think) for a friend and this has been great! Just have to figure out what things get disconnected for an auto tranny too.

 

Thank you so much man, this helped me a lot, swapped my 1st motor using this

 

very nice write up! thanks! .. might want to mention that ps elbow and how easily it get messed up and leaks.

 

bump for some thread love!

 

This thread is stickied....:shrug:

 

Great write up. Works perfectly for Contour SVT also.

 

Thanks.

 

Thanks! Just used parts of this as a guide to swap my MTX. I went through the bottom & dropped the sub-frame since I don't have an engine lift, but the pics here were nice as I took a Cougar apart for the first time.

 

You're welcome! Glad it helped out.

 

this helped a million its crazy

 

Hi everyone, I'm sorry that it says so out of nowhere, but I'm just pulling out my engine, I wanted to help from this pictures, but unfortunately I can not see anything, what happend? Two weeks ago, the photos were still here.

Sorry for Engl, but im from poland

 

Oops

All fixed!