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G

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got new speakers for the front, and i wondered if there was any easy way to take off the door panels??? thanks for your help:)
 
G

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
there are 2 screws on the outside of the panel (where the door shuts) they are T15, there is also another screw on teh inside of the door near the top. Its T15 too.

There are 3 screws inside the door....2 in the carpet area (the plastic things are covering them), and the cougar head in the handle area covers the third. They are T-20. After that its just clips and what not, If you pull out then up the door should remove easily. The lock is easy to undo after you get the door free.

Sorta bend the cable back to a 90 degree with the door and slide the bar out from teh lock.

Hope this helps.
 

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Premium Member
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5,423 Posts
Braidee, here's 2 other post quotes I found on it;

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FRONT DOOR PANELS
remove entire door panels -- remove the 2 lower plastic plugs in the carpet area of the door and gently pry out the ***** head in the swoopy door handle.. behind all those areas there are screws that you must remove.. some are phillips some are torq..

remove the small screws from around the sides of the panel.. there are 3 torq screws you must remove.. 2 onthe outer area and 1 inside the door jam where the door and fender area of the panel are....

gently pry up all your door switches.. disconnect them.. same with the mirror control on the drivers side..

lift up the entire panel and pull forward.. it should be free.. you need to now disconnect the door cable.. pull it out of the holder and then out of the black hole when you have the tip lined up.. (once you are doing this it will make complete sense)

remove entire door panel.. flip it over... there is a large metal washer/nut on the back of the swoopy handle.. grab the pliers and unscrew it.. this will allow the panel to bend back so you can pull the insert out later.. remove the 2 screws for the door handle and take it completely out.

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I finally have time to post these pics. I recently bought a pair of Infinity Kappa 6.1 Perfect components to install. After reading through some old posts here I decided to go ahead with it instead of paying someone else to do it. I have always had bad luck with getting someone else to install anything.

1. I had to take the door panels off, which was very simple! Five screws and pull. That's it.

2. I removed the old speakers and traced them out on a piece of Hard board I bought from Home Depot ($3). After I traced the 5x7 , I traced out the circle for the 6.5" component. I read here in a post that I should place the 6.5" in the lower part of the door opening. This is true. The door curves in toward the speaker near the top. if the woofer was any higher, it would rub against the door.

3. I cut out the 6.5" hole first because I figured it would be easier to do while the 5x7 piece was still part of the hardboard sheet (just easier to hold while using the jig saw).
4. cut out the 5x7 "woodie".

5. Drill a hole in the top part of the woodie for the tweeter wires. Then screw in the tweeter.

6. I did not realize I would have to use the factory wires, since there is a wire junction between the door and the interior wiring. Therefore I cut off the factor speaker wire harness and wired up the crossover. I used industrial Velcro to mount the crossover in the inside of the door panel, just below the side mirror (inside the door panel). There was just enough room.

7. The last part was to screw in the 6.5" into the woodie and the door. I aligned it so one screw on the 6.5" would be in line with the original 5x7 screw. The rest just went into the woodie. The ones that went into the woodie also went through pre-drilled holes in the inner door metal.

8. Slam the door panels back on and BAM, clear, crisp sound.

I must say the Kappa's did take a week to break in. At first I was a little disappointed in the sound, but after a week, WOW. They really scream. I wish there was some way to make a sealed enclosure on the back of the woodie to really improve the SQ. Oh well, can't be perfect.

I also installed my new Autotek4160 amp. The hardest part was running the 4Ga through the firewall, which really was not that hard, just scary. I had paid a shop to run the previous 8ga to the battery, but when I traced the 8ga to run my 4ga, I found that the shop only ran it to the back of the fuse box. A$$holes / thieves! I found some comments in the posts about where to drill and it worked perfectly.
 
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