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I'm getting close to ordering a FG hood for Foundracer. Its easy for me to find an excuse to pass through Cumberland, MD right now where the shop is but its not easy for me take our larger vehicle to do so. I was hoping to use the yellow cougar to pick it up.
I'm only half-joking about a roof rack...I wish I had a trailer hitch.
I tried to get Tim to send me his before he sold his car but he wouldn't do it.
 

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I'm pretty sure I have a rear caliper on the shelf in my basement, Maybe I'll remember to look at it.

The photos for the 01 calipers on rock auto all appear to be spinners...maybe I'm just senile. Or maybe I Hulked them in somehow.
This has been bothering me. I was thinking about it, and I went back through all my posts about working on brakes, and its entirely possible that in 270k miles I've never done just pads on the rear. I have definitely replaced entire calipers...once by choice and a second time when my car tried to kill me. But its possible I've never done just pads in the rear. Before my rust got really bad, I was more likely to allow shops to touch my car so the brakes for the first fifteen years or so might have just been done at Sears. Since the rears don't get a lot of wear, I just haven't had to do them outside of the two times I replaced calipers.
 

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I did this today
 
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It wouldn't be totally acurate. Theres some filler in it. My paint jobs thicker then the factory.
That would also require me to own a scale which would lead to me weighing myself which would lead to sad depressed thoughts about my weight.
And then the main reason Im lazy
 

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Today I learned that some mini's have 280mm front rotors that are very close to the same thickness and height as our rear rotors. If the bolt holes were re-drilled, they might be a very economical solution for larger rear brakes.
 

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I just want larger rears for cosmetic purposes. That's why I'm not interested in an expensive kit from TCE. I've got 13's in the front on Foundracer and stock rears. It looks ridiculous.
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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I would say obtaining BMW parts and having them re-drilled would be way less cost-effective than just using stock front 278mm rotors from our own platform...?
 

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I have some kind of hang-up about the increased width and having to shave brake pads...maybe I'm over-thinking it.
 

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I just want larger rears for cosmetic purposes.
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You're paying for the engineering time on the TCE kit the first time, but the rotors only cost ~$100 to replace once you have everything else. Good luck finding someone willing to accept liability to modify a pair of brake rotors to do the work for less than that, especially considering you still need a rotor first. In all honesty, the hose upgrade alone like in the kit run $140 from Nautilus so $750 for the whole set isn't bad considering you don't have to think about it. Only real concern to me would be cracking a rotor away from home for replacement, but isn't preventing that the whole point of upgrading them?
 

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I don't begrudge TCE for their prices, they seem to be consistent with the industry standards. I just don't think its necessary to spend that much for my purposes and fabrication skill level.

Also, those photos are hilarious!
 

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I have some kind of hang-up about the increased width and having to shave brake pads...maybe I'm over-thinking it.
So far I've never installed new brake pads on my rear rotors. I just got some new YellowStuff pads for next spring's race season, so I'm going to try having the rotors turned down to minimum spec, rather than address the pads. The rears do so little braking, as Jason mentioned, that minimum-spec thickness for a front rotor should be more than enough to last the life of the car unless it's under HEAVY track use.
 

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Finding a larger rear rotor w/out the cooling veins is the hardest part it seems. I was talking to Josh Pietenpol last year about a kit he was developing that used thinner 270mm Mustang Cobra rears, drilled out, and the hubcentric rings from BAER to get upgraded rears w/out modifying the pads. But because the platform was dead and getting a low volume amount of brackets done was difficult he didn't pursue it past the one test setup he made.

I think the upside to his method was it didn't require you to shave down the hub and it's easier to drill out a rotor than grind down pads or shave back the hub. So when you replace a rear bearing 15 years later and forgot that was something you needed to do you're not looking for a bench grinder.
 

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I did a little data mining this morning. The benefit of the Mini rotors probably isn't worth the added trouble.
For thinner (lighter weight) rotors, the MK1 Focus RS or FSVT rears might be a good option but the FSVT calipers would be required. I'm not sure if non-svt calipers are the same or not.
If you don't mind shaving down pads, then there are several options.

Mustang rotors were about 5/8" taller and the OEM diameters were similar to ours. That's not really a tree worth barking up.

Cougar rearFiesta ST frontFSVT FrontCougar sport frontMK1 Focus RS frontMK1 Focus RS rearFSVT rear
height1.72"1.721.751.852.081.691.295
thickness.79"0.910.940.941.10.40.4
diameter252278300278324280280
 

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I used SVT Focus rotors on my rear brakes when I first installed them, but they are problematic. The SVT rotors are NOT vented, so they are MUCH thinner than even our stock rear rotors. As such, the caliper opens far too wide, and the pads can and will fall out. You MUST have a thick enough rotor (i.e. a vented rotor) to use the OEM rear caliper.
 

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Yeah, I think you would need the Focus calipers to use the Focus rear rotors. Or figure out some kind of spacer but that sounds like a horrible idea.
 

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My son and I replaced the downstream o2 sensor today and replaced the e-brake cables finally. Lots of work to pull the center console just to reset the tensioner....but he seems really geeked to be able to park on a grade with the engine running etc.

PS- What is the magic tool used to do the upstream O2 sensors? Pulling the engine comes to mind when I look at them stuffed in there far from reach....
 
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