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Well, I likely won't be installing them anytime soon as priority one is a new roof due to damage. (Three bad storms in a row with more than a week of power outages etc around here...) And the car needs body/paint work done including this thing: (@mmc757 proof! But I'm not unwrapping it again until I get it to the shop after I already scratched one corner...)
81987


Also swapping to gas lifts for the hood and a locking Quik-Latch pin set to secure it. So it will probably be after that so I can adjust height accordingly. Oh and T-Mobile bought Sprint and is decommissioning their CDMA network so I have to change phone/provider in the next couple months!
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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Man; I had no idea there was a KW option for the CDW-27.
 

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Man; I had no idea there was a KW option for the CDW-27.
They aren't for Mercury Cougars or Ford Contours, but they ARE for Ford Cougars! :)
81991


I've never understood if those need extra OEM parts like strut mounts to fit, or if everything you need is in the box.
These specifically require factory strut mounts etc. to be installed. Expect the same as if you had purchased Koni struts with Eibach springs and put it all together yourself. Except these are already layered up nicely... It does come with a tool kit with everything you need to adjust them.
81990
 

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At some point I'm eventually going to need to drop the money on these or similar. The brand new BATs failed after less than 2,000 miles, the KYB I replaced them with failed after less (in the rear both times). Now I've got my old Konis back in, with BAT up front and NOS Motorcrafts to replace the Koni's this Winter so they can possibly get refreshed.
 

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whats the cost on these?
~1.800 € MPN:35230026
They also do not keep them in stock so expect to wait while they make you a new set in Germany, then let FedEx ship them in circles around you for a week or two... Honestly if you include Europe in your shopping, almost everything is incredibly easy to find for these cars. I've ended up with a spare ST200 upper/lower/TB/rail/injector set because it was bundled with other things...
 

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is this the correct website? https://www.kwsuspensions.com/
That is the US website, which won't show Europe models. Shop - Produkte online bestellen

Like most things you can get a better deal through third parties typically. I used DriftWorks to save ~$100 with their sale and shipping deals. No complaints, actually they were better than most on status updates and they're UK based so less language barrier. Debating if I want to keep the Koni set, or just keep OEMs for spares as KWs are also rebuildable, according to them it can be done at their California facility.
 

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Stainless would certainly be nice...Does KW offer a solution to insulate the strut from the knuckle?
 

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Worried about Galvanic corrosion?

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
If it never see's wet or salty roads it probably doesn't matter, but if it does, then yes. He takes pretty good care of this car so he might just keep it dry and not worry about it.
There are ways to manage it, the most difficult contact point to manage for our struts would be at the knuckle so I was curious if they had an answer already. If not, I would probably just bore out the knuckle a bit and sleeve it with delrin or similar. All the other contact points can probably be isolated easily enough with nylon washers and bolt sleeves.
 

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Replaced a rear wheel bearing (Timken): Slid old one out no problem, popped out extended studs to transfer over. Transfer studs, clean race, slide new bearing on, torque to spec, forget I had to grind it down slightly because of the 270mm brake upgrade. Popped bearing off, quick grind for perfect fit in rotor, go to slide bearing on.

Doesn’t slide on now. Ok. Go to pull it off and it doesn’t budge. Weird, I didn’t even push it on, just seated it maybe 1/8” tops. Keep pulling and pulling and it has zero give and may as well be welded on. One final pull and the back of the bearing splits and stays behind. FML. Use a puller but the metal is so thin it starts to bend it so finally a block of wood fit behind it and leveraged it off with little effort. Pull bearing race apart and reseat it, install and button up.

Move on to speedometer issue. Pull whole drivers side apart, and shim the white harness once we find a sweet spot. Test drive, works, spot of glue to hold the shim from backing out. Test drive again, works. Close up dash.

Radio is the last piece, quick test before installing it and the drivers speaker doesn’t work now. Eventually trace it to a loose RCA in the trunk at the amp. Test the USB w/the phone. Doesn’t work (I was just using it 2 hours earlier) try different combos of cables, checking wires, nothing. Suddenly it comes to life and doesn’t play music, then radio goes to standby. Fiddled with it for 45 minutes before I got fed up because all the moving around to check it caused the plastic dash kit to split.


I’ve never wanted to take a hammer to this car more than today. I’m beyond livid at the new parts that continue to break on me, or the stupid issues that materialize out of nowhere.
 

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CF2021 today in Zanesville, OH
OH really is the heart of the Cougar population.
I parked next to one at Staples. I haven't been this close to another Cougar since CF2019.
82014


Unfortunately, I never met the person, I got out first and didn't want to wait around.
It looked like they had put some efforts into taking care of it (clean headlights and wheels) but it was still rusted out and the interior was trashed. I forgot to notice if it had a stick or not.
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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I hit it with 2 layers of Avalon King Armor Shield IX. The stuff is NOT cheap, but it’s easy to get discount codes, and they always offer you add-on bargains too, so I took the plunge on 2 kits - one for the Cougar and one for the Bullitt.

SUPER EASY to apply, and impressive results. 2 complete coats on the cougar, glass and all, didn’t even finish off one kit.

Interested to see how it holds up over time.
 

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It's been sitting in the garage for 3 days now so it can cure; I just pulled it out into the driveway today - looks fantastic.

So good I ordered a set of EBC YellowStuff rear brake pads today. Should pair nicely with the new Wilwoods in the spring, but I'll probably have to turn the rotors down quite a bit to use them with the 278's. I've always installed used pads in the past, as new ones won't fit around the big rotors. Plenty of time to address that though.
 

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Pull front suspension out and replaced upper strut mounts and both ball joints. Also had the drivers side hub and bearing replaced. Chasing a clunk on the passenger side that happens when turning or under any torque (accel/brake hard). The end links are new as of last year.

Everything went smooth removal and install wise, but now the drivers side caliper/rotor is dragging once the wheel is on when it wasn’t before. Seems to rotate free without the wheel on, but immediately is seized when even hand tightening the lugs. Ran out of time for the day to investigate further.
 
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