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holy ****, are you all old men with wife and children or what?
i'm 31 single
I was 24 when I bought my Cougar. Now 46. Married, no kids, one dog, three cats. :)
 
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Married, two kids, and I bought my first Cougar when dallarace2 was... 10 yrs old, maybe 9 yrs old depending on the dates.
 
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Dallarace is currently re-evaluating his taste in cars...
 

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I inherited the Cougar @27. Even if I hadn't I'd likely have picked up something similar by now, although RWD...

Everyone talking about how much work it is to daily drive a car that age makes me laugh though, as it is the newest in my fleet (discounting my brother's car still on my insurance) and I'm always the first one called to bail someone out for car trouble. I've also been doing the most travel for work as they've learned I'm not afraid to put miles on my cars or go out in bad weather like all the Jeeps... I keep them specifically because they're so cheap and low maintenance compared to everything newer.
 

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Whelp. Mixed bag on the tune....

The guy said the e-tune I got (from Brennspeed) was good, car was healthy all around. Where things didn't go well was for some reason my Xcal4 became unmarried from the car and he couldn't load his test tune (a baseline). He loaded it on the xcal but couldn't upload it to the car, so I guess I could technically get that on there if I can figure out what happened (he said it's only good for 10-15hp more maybe). He only charged me for the datalogging and dyno time.

The other issue was my car was having problems on his dyno and couldn't, as I understood it, push past the resistance from the eddy current applied. I forgot the actual way he described it. But the chart looks pretty choppy and peaked at 175hp which he estimated to be closer to 200. Sure sounds good at WOT tho.
81597


Dyno pull video

On one hand I'm glad the tune it had is good, but on the other I don't have an accurate dyno reading on power. The old butt dyno tells me it's in the mid 220s because my Fusion is putting down 240hp and it feels like it has similar oomph even with it being heavier.
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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Always most important to confirm your tune is safe; all that other stuff is just gravy. Does sound terrific.
 

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Started the process to renew the front suspension: struts, springs, control arms, sway bar links, and tie rod ends. Of course my rotors are completely seized and won't budge. I cycled between torching, rapid cooling, and whacking it with a hammer for almost two hours without any sign of progress. I only have a 2lb mallet so maybe I need a bigger one. Or maybe a bigger puller? The jaws on mine don't go wide enough to grab onto the rotor.
 

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Fighting rust is a neverending story with the cougar eh

torching+plastic hammer
or only a puller
Are the 2 options

how did you heat?
 

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Fighting rust is a neverending story with the cougar eh

torching+plastic hammer
or only a puller
Are the 2 options

how did you heat?
Yeah, the rust is frustrating. Especially since this is the first time I've ever worked on a car, and nobody in my life is into cars, so the only way for me to soak up knowledge and techniques is through the internet.

I used Map-Pro fuel and slowly went around the rotor where it meets the hub in the front. Not sure if that's the right spot. Did that for about 5 minutes, then squirted it with water, and then hit the back with a rubber mallet turning it 1/4 revolution and hitting it again until my arm got tired, and then started heating again. I'm thinking that I'm gonna go to O'Reilly's tomorrow morning and borrow a large puller.
 

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Right spot, just continue heating with your map-pro, don't refresh!
Every 1-2minutes hit one-two times with your plastic hammer just to understand if is hot enough.
When properly hot it will fall down with one hit.

If after 10-15 minutes isn't fall down you need a bigger flame or a bigger end mouth for your torch.
30mm is good diameter end mouth for a propane torch, I tried little end mouth propane in the past and wasn't good,i tried electric heater gun already not good too.
Like this in 5 minutes max is good.
 

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I've literally shattered a rusted on rotor using a puller when I first had to replace my OEM ones. Heat and a 5lb hammer was doing nothing. Make sure you're extra liberal with the never-seez when you clean it up after.
Been there done that with a Drum on a Lincoln Continental... Never with the Cougar though. Everything on it was properly lubed when put together.
 

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I was able to get the rotors off with a large puller, and I still had to hit it with a hammer. Also, smacked my shin pretty good too. That's gonna be a nasty bruise. Moved on to removing the drivers side control arm and I couldn't get the subframe low enough to remove the bolt. Removed both of the drivers side subframe bolts and the front transmission mount bolts. Put a jack under the oil pan and jacked up until the car started to rise. Then I used a pry bar to push the subframe down, but it still wasn't enough even with all my weight. I got what seemed to be pretty close, but jeeez is that a long bolt.

Maybe I removed the wrong bolts on the mount? I'm looking at the transmission removal instructions in the factory service manual and it says to remove the center bolt, while I removed the two lower bolts that are pointing straight up. Or maybe I should loosen the subframe bolts on the passenger side? I'd rather not cut the bolt as I'd have to buy a saw and install the bolt upside down.
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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Yes, loosen the passenger’s side cradle bolts.
 

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Most of us cut the bolt and put a replacement in upside down. It sounds like your facilities are limited though so you might do better to lower the subframe as B3nn3tt said.

Lowering the subframe isn't as big a deal as your head will make you believe, but there is some additional risk if the subframe bolts dont break free.

If you do decide to cut, you can get a carbide cutting wheel and place it in your handheld drill. It wont be fast but it will work without spending a ton of money on a new tool.
 

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If you're already dealing with that much rust I'd be skeptical of the subframe bolts. If you spin a rear one it's an easy enough fix but the front bolts are a world of hurt....worse than your bruised shin probably is today.
 

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I was dealing with so many rust problems a jack with a 6" cup was still punching holes in the car rather than lifting it... So I got out the BIG jack to pick up the entire subframe!

81603
 
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