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Ya know, there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the spare tire well that makes it easy to drain those things ;)

Could be a good car with a little work. Luckily spare parts are so cheap on RockAuto. I did pretty much the same thing a few years ago with a 99 Laser Red. It had been sitting in a storage building for years with a seized engine. I bought it for $300 and put about $1500 into it (which includes a brand new engine). I replaced all 4 struts, 2 tires, both front control arms, outer and inner tie rods, fuel pump, brake pads, parking brake cables, and a ton of little odds and ends. So I had an almost-brand-new car for less than 2 grand.
 

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Congrats on the find! Rust kills these cars. If there is no rust, and the deer strike damage is fixable, then everything else on the car is fixable, especially if its a manual car.
You've come to the right place for advice, the knowledge base on this forum is amazing.
Post pics!

I'll edit my profile soon and get rid of the generic R. I just wanted to throw this out there and get anyone's opinion!

I'm a complete newbie in this forum, since I just got my Cougar yesterday! It's a 1999 with the V6 engine and 133K on it. A buddy and I towed it out of a relative's side yard where it had been sitting for five years. I spent today pumping water out of the spare tire well. What a horrible smell! From what I saw online, it sounds like the rear wiper grommet leaks when it gets this old, or the seal around the edge. I'll be checking that out soon.

The paint is a little faded, and the owner hit a deer and beat up the front bumper and grill, but there is NO RUST on the body anywhere other than under the top of the hatchback between the hinges. The interior is decent as well. It wouldn't fire up (it tried to catch a couple of times), but I think that's due to bad gas. I plan to jump the relay and pump it all out tomorrow, if the weather holds.

So... should I junk this car or should I keep it and rehab it? It was free to me; they just wanted it off their property. I even have the title. Any suggestions or warnings about this car? I was thinking about giving it to my daughter after I repaint it, but... as I'm working on it, I get the feeling it might be a really good car. Opinions? TIA!
 

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Rehab it! But drain and clean the fuel tank before trying to run it again...unless you want to spend a bunch of time working on the fuel system.
Thanks for that advice!

I went out and pulled the core in the valve on the fuel rail, and tried jumping the fuel relay, but no fuel came out. So, I put it back in and tried cycling the key repeatedly, but no fuel came out. I think I got lucky, I guess, because it appears I either have a wiring problem or the fuel pump is out.
 

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I came to notice our fourms don't have one of these threads, where people post about everyday things they do to make thier cougar that much better or comfy to sit in.

Just recently buying my Cougar i find myself almost every single day doing something that improves my enjoyment of the car.

I noticed after all the years of having this car some of you owners still make improvments. Even new owners make improvements. Even something as small as "I got an oil change" can go here.

Just today i passed my safety/emissions inspection after fixing my P0401 code.

Tomorrow im going to get my tags and military base stickers :)

So what have you done to your Cougar today? :biggrin:
Got my windows tinted!
 

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Thanks for that advice!

I went out and pulled the core in the valve on the fuel rail, and tried jumping the fuel relay, but no fuel came out. So, I put it back in and tried cycling the key repeatedly, but no fuel came out. I think I got lucky, I guess, because it appears I either have a wiring problem or the fuel pump is out.
Did you check the fuel cutoff switch? Driver’s side kick panel, I think.
 

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Sitting around for as long as you say, it’s almost certain the fuel pump is dead.
 

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Did you check the fuel cutoff switch? Driver’s side kick panel, I think.
That's the one thing I haven't checked yet. I will tomorrow!

I pulled the relay and checked the voltage with the key in RUN. The coil is getting 12V, but the other two terminals register as just under 5 volts. I expected 12.

Couldn't detect any voltages at the connector to the pump. I've been looking for a wiring diagram for the harness, but haven't seen one yet around here!

And I also found out it has quite a negative camber... The front tires are showing metal on the inside edge.

Plenty of fun days ahead!

Thanks for the suggestion!
 

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Ford's EEC-V controls system (what we have) uses a 5V control signal for a lot of functions.
 

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Got the new exhaust system installed this week - for the most part. The tail pipe section is being stubborn, so I'll probably have to take it to an exhaust shop to have the pipe expanded a little. I cut out a portion of the non-expanded section to clear the Roush rear valence, and now the expanded piece won't slide over it anymore. It LOOKS LIKE the rear hanger will be really simple to build, as it falls in a good spot where I can bolt in a universal piece to finish it off.

The Trubendz fitment was really mostly spot-on; I had to remove about an inch of pipe from the middle section just past the muffler because that first big bend was going too deep in towards the fuel tank. But that was simple. I think the thing that most people are experiencing when they say their Trubendz exhaust fitment is bad comes from their failure to get the proper angles on the joints. There are lots of places for the system to get a twist, and that will throw off the entire length unless you get them turned just right.

I forgot to weigh the new system before I installed it, but the shipping info said 30 pounds. The packaging weighed 4.5 pounds, plus I cut out some pipe, so call it 25. The Borla dual system weighed in at 32, so that's a good 20% improvement.

I took it for a little drive around the block with the tail pipe temporarily just angled down below the valence - and it's UNBELIEVABLY LOUD. Probably would be fine with stock manifolds and cat, but with the headers and HFC, it's bad - especially with the interior stripped out. Hopefully it will quiet down a little after it soots up inside, or I may have to add a resonator. Homey don't play that.

EDIT: Also, Trubendz has definitely upped their game; instead of the old "truck-tip" tail pipe that we've seen throughout the years, this one came with a very nice rolled-tip exhaust exit that looks a lot nicer than any I've seen before. Nice surprise.
 

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no he doesnt, because racecar noises.

i have headers->trubendz y->high flow->borla race muffler->90* bend out the side. at the first event at grissom this year a guy told me that he couldnt believe how loud my car was coming at him at the end of a straight, but a good loud lol
 

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80757


Upgraded the Coug. Still have the cougar just not sure what I'm going to do with it. Part of me says sell it. Part of me says it's been part of your life for 17 years just keep it.
 
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Car’s been up on Jack stands all weekend while I got the exhaust sorted.

Finished it up tonight and dropped it down to take a test drive, and suddenly the speedometer doesn’t work, and the odometer isn’t counting.

Suppose the VSS finally bit it?
 

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Heck, I loosened the IACV and just stuck an arm down there. No jacking up, no laying on pavement. I did that job this week. Same symptoms as you.

My new VSS (from standard motor products) was dead in the box - that took a few hours of annoying diagnostics to figure out.

Rockauto has motorcraft VSSs for like 25$ CAD. I couldn't find a torque spec anywhere - I just screwed it in tight by hand and it worked. Best of luck to you.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 

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My standard motor vss was also doa. I had to cut the wires on the stock one heat shrink the wires then solder it back together for a while before I bought a new motorcraft one.
 

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My VSS died a few years back (actually probably more than a few years). I recall it taking more than 10 minutes, but I don't remember why - I struggled to get it loosened for some reason. I also did it from underneath.
 
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