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Pulled the engine. Went mostly smooth up until the top ac compressor bolt refused to come out. Hit it spray, MAP torch, impact gun, my full body weight. So we had to pull it with it still attached which made all the difference in that 2" of clearance needed for the trans to stay in the car.

While the engine is at a shop being torn down and inspected I'm going to try and replace as many bolts with stainless stuff. For a car that doesn't see rain and never Winter it still likes to rust up bolts. I also need to respray the engine bay since it got scratched up in the removal.
 

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Deleting A/C was one of the best things I ever did under the hood of this car...
 

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no kidding. really gives you room underhood, too. I'm working on that too. the damn compressor won't come out. all three bolts stripped, so the lower two got their heads cut off; but the top one has so little access I had to just sand it down with a dremel for a bloody hour. right now, it still won't come out. three headless bolts, no A/C lines connected - still won't budge. I broke a beefy flat blade screwdriver trying to smack it off from the tensioner side of the compressor. I don't know what I'm missing.

that thing is a serious pain.
 

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Get a bigger hammer and drop the radiator.
 

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I win. The 4 pound sledge wouldn't get it loose - I had to cut off the lower bolts through the aluminum housing to finally get the top (headless) bolt to jarr itself loose from the compressor body, with the sledge.

So glad that's done.


Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 

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Yep, it rained in the wee hours here this morning. But I ceramic-ed the crap out of it, and put a fresh coat of Carnuba on the hood, so it should clean up just fine - or even just sheet right off, maybe.
 

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I keep the Bullitt VERY clean for the most part, since I don't have to drive it when it rains. The other 3 are pretty much always in various states of dirty, though. I think the Cougar had gone the longest of the three since a wash, and I'm going to be slapping magnetic numbers on the doors on Saturday, so it had to happen.
 

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I think Ive decided on a Braille battery. The price difference between that and a Duralast Gold isnt that much, its about 9 pounds lighter, quite a bit smaller, and gets good reviews.
Anyone have any experience with them?
 

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just from the autox community. they use the tiny ones. they dont have the best lasting power. I wouldnt get one for the race car. There is a lighter optima that has the some cca and would probably hold up longer that im going to get when mine craps out finally
 

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If I were going to go with a tiny battery like that I'd have to just put it in when I'm racing and take it out immediately after. Probably have to keep it stored on a trickle charger.
 

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Why would you keep it on a charger? On paper, it should be just as capable as a lead battery, but I certainly don't have a huge knowledge base of batteries.
 

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just from the autox community. they use the tiny ones. they dont have the best lasting power. I wouldnt get one for the race car. There is a lighter optima that has the some cca and would probably hold up longer that im going to get when mine craps out finally
I havent found Optima's listed for our cars that are any lighter than a normal battery. Maybe there's one with adequate output that's a smaller size, I haven't looked hard enough to find it though.
 

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Yeah! Our first points event was Saturday, too; car did awesome once I got the damper setup right. First run was just me hanging on for dear life while the thing tried desperately to swap ends on every corner. So I took almost everything out of the rear damper and it settled right down (with a little help from some heat in the tires). Finished 22/67 raw, 28 PAX, which was good enough for first in SMS/XS. Some really nasty CAM corvettes there today, and the LS-swapped RX-8 was pretty cool.
 

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OK, I am now running the Cougar in XS-A, which is basically the same as SMS, but it's a brand new nationally-recognized class, whereas SMS is only a regional class. The main benefit, to me, is that there is a minimum weight requirement that varies depending on your drivetrain. FWD cars have a 2500# minimum weight, while AWD cars can't be lighter than 3000#. So my FWD car makes similar power to a WRX, but I can manage up to 500 POUNDS weight advantage over those guys. So I'm in crazy weight-reduction mode right now to take advantage of this.

I have never had my car on a scale, but I hope to do that this weekend maybe. Very curious about that.

This week I removed the EGR valve (still can't get the pipe out of the manifold; I soak it in penetrating oil every evening and hammer at it a little more every day - one time it's gonna let go). Pulled the DPFE sensor and all associated bolts, bracketry, and vacuum lines. Removed rear seat belts and retractors, and rear seat back latches (since there are no rear seats and I'm never going to put them back in). I'll be pulling the rear speakers today, and I ordered a new Trubendz single-exit exhaust to replace my dual Borla, which should save a lot of weight, too.

Measures I have already taken - lightweight wheels, deleted A/C compressor, condenser, dryer, and all lines, rear wiper delete, carbon fiber hood, deleted back seats, replaced both front seats with lighter racing seats, and remove spare tire, jack, tire iron and all associated retaining hardware.

I would like to find a Zetec center console with no arm rests, so I'm on the lookout for one of those, if you see one let me know. GOing to remove the hood latch mechanism and the rear hatch washer nozzle and lines. Who knows what else.

I'm hoping this might get me into the 26XX range, maybe less. We'll find out soon. The guy I compete most closely with is running an XS Spec V Sentra, and he claims a weight of 2533, so he's right on the bleeding edge of the XS-A class (there is an XS-B class that goes down to 2000#, but their handicap is naturally higher, so you're always better off being at the bottom end of any weight class than the top end of the next).
 
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