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Discussion Starter #21
Also looking a a new switch it looks like they may be adjustable. Is that true? Wondering if maybe that is my issue as it looks like maybe these could have been made to adjust to fully closed the first time they are actuated. Can anyone confirm that?

clutch_switch.JPG
 

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I'll throw this out there FWIW. If it happens to work, it'll be maddeningly simple. The clutch switch may simply need calibrating. That is, if it's anything similar to the brake light switch, and it looks very similar. For the brake light switch, simply fully extend the plunger (with the switch disconnected and removed), hold the pedal down and reinstall. Releasing the pedal "calibrates" the switch. Maybe worth a shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Todd,

I was thinking about taking the switch apart or possibly looking for a feature to allow the plunger to extend. So on a whim I just pulled hard ( What did I have to lose and I was about to buy a new switch) and it popped back out to look the new on the picture above. I checked it with a multi-meter and it still worked but closed much sooner. So reinstalling allowed me calibrate when I pushed the clutch pedal down and "set it" and now the car will crank with the clutch pedal down. Very happy with this issue now solved... Thank you for the suggestion!

So I am down to tracing the signal wire for the fuel pump ( white with red stripe should have power but does not). Would really like to get that sorted soon so my wife can stop reminding me a bought a lawn ornament....I am grateful to be down to one major problem left to resolve....
 

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I’m glad it worked. I discovered I had no brake lights after having the battery out for an extended period. I found a few YouTube vids that both mentioned calibrating the switch on the Ford Mondeo.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
A bad Starter relay, Starter relay diode, or Clutch inhibit switch will all interrupt that starter relay circuit, and those are all easy to check.
The fuel pump circuit is pretty much the Fuel pump relay, the inertia switch, the PCM, the PCM power relay, the fuse, and the pump, those are all easy to check.
Try jumping the fuel pump to verify you didn't get a bad part off the shelf, then systematically check the rest of the circuit.

I wouldnt hold my breathe hoping Volume 1 is going to help, your problem is electrical, the rest of the fuel system is already proven to work.
Ok so now that the starter is working I went back and started trying to diagnose the fuel pump.


All fuses and relays under the good for the fuel pump and PCM check out and are getting power. I believe that the white / red stripe wire should be getting power to the pump but it is not. What's next? I was thinking about pulling the back seat trim out and look at the fuel pump driver module ( Cant remember if that's what its called) but basically try to back track why I'm not getting power there (white with red stripe) . I was wondering if the fuel pump driver / controller was smart enough to check for the motor ( Impedance check?) before applying voltage.

I could also pull the fuel sender back out and try to diagnose further there. I'm not crazy about pulling that pump assembly back out but I think its probably the right next step. I trying applying voltage directly to the pump and was not successful in getting it to turn over so I think that is next, but I don't like the fact if also does not seem to be getting power. Thoughts?
 

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Sounds reasonable to start at the pump and work your way back from there
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So back at it this weekend recall the fuel pump connector is as follows:

1: 50-BB11A ( GY/WY) Voltage Supplied in start
2: 31S-BB12 (BK/YE) Ground , Switched
3: 30-BB10 (RD) Voltage Supplied at all times ( Not overload protected)
4: Not Used
5: 50-BB10 (GY/BK) Voltage Supplied in start ( Overload Protected), Switched


Per the photos below you can see what is what to help somebody else out in the future....
80794

80793



80791




So from this you can see that positive for the fuel pump is


I got the following from the service manuals and posted earlier in the thread:

"1: 50-BB11A ( GY/WY) Voltage Supplied in start
2: 31S-BB12 (BK/YE) Ground , Switched
3: 30-BB10 (RD) Voltage Supplied at all times ( Not overload protected)
4: Not Used
5: 50-BB10 (GY/BK) Voltage Supplied in start ( Overload Protected), Switched "


Going off the pin #'s on the actual connector I get the following:


___
| |
| Pin 4 Pin 5 |
| { Black with {White with |
| Blue Stripe} Red Stripe} |
| |
| Pin 1 Pin 2 Pin 3 |
| { Brown with { Black} {White with |
| Yellow Stripe} Black Stripe} |
| Fuel Pump Ground Fuel Pump + |
| switched - |
____




So I now know that I'm getting voltage to the pump and that I can jump the pump and get it to run with positive to pin 3 and ground to pin 1.

So its my switched ground not switching. ( Checks Open) What could be the issue with that? Also Pin 2 has a good ground. Is there a problem if I jump "Black" and "Brown with Yellow stripe" together? Don't want to burn up the pump but I sick of this car not running......
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok so that was a fail. Here is what I intended to show on the connector


80795




So I need to figure out why the swithced ground on pin 1 is not working correctly. Also very temped to Jump pins 1 and 2 to get a working ground and thus a working pump.... Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Traced the Fuel pump leads ( Fuel Pump Switched Ground to the next box in the B Pillar drivers side. I believe this this is the Fuel Pump Driver Control Module


80796


80797


Any Thoughts on where to go from here?

I thought the inertia switch cuts power so that is not likely it.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
*update My son called me at work with the car running today. He unplugged things got a check engine light. Cleared codes with stuff plugged back in and now the fuel pump is working as it should and the car is running......Really happy to be able to get this thing on the road but baffled at what caused the issue. Just providing this update for closure to the thread and in case it helps someone else out in the future.
 

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Whoa, great news. Hope it is permanent!
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Whoa, great news. Hope it is permanent!
Spoke too soon now dead as a door nail with no fuel pump running when key rolls over. Voltage and ground appear to be getting to the pump but on the low side say 11.12-11.5V

Throwing a P1237 code ( Secondary circuit) So now what pull the pump back out and check it again? Wiggle wires, replace FPDM and fuel pressure sensor on the engine? Really getting sick of this. Thoughts appreciated.

P1237.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Frustration is kicking in on this with little else to go on and more money than time I have the following on order from Rock Auto (Due in by Friday):

1) FPDM
2) Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
3) Fuel Pump Assembly

Planning to install in the order above to attempt to ID root cause with the parts remaining going in trunk. Thoughts?

Any one else had this much trouble with these cars? high millage examples in the classified led me to believe this would be a good reliable car but I'm starting to have my doubts.
 

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I wish I could offer more technical assistance but you've already exceeded my electrical troubleshooting skills. I do empathize as I bought mine barely running and feared similar. Fortunately, the car's problems turned out to be misdiagnosed (badly) by the seller.

For example, he thought the fuel pump was failing. Although I replaced all ignition parts and the UIM gasket as I had it off to access the IMRC linkage (failed plastic retainer), I think the problem was simply a vacuum leak from the PCV (plastic) hose which crumbled when I touched it. The bad right rear strut and tire scrub turned out to be a failed (plastic) mounting screw for the fuel filler which allowed it to press against the fender liner. The bad front wheel bearing(s) turned out to be bent wheels.

I truly wish I knew the answer for you. It's hopefully quite simple and easy to overlook. And I do hope you find it. This are really fun cars and quite unique. However, as with the Contour it's based on, Ford allowed the cost engineers to have too much say in production. Hence all the plastic, etc.

You may even consider researching the Contour forums and/or YouTube (but search for "Contour". I found the brake light switch calibration tip on YouTube in a couple of Mondeo vids.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Appreciate the kind words. Hopefully swapping out some parts this weekend resolves this annoying gremlin.
 
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