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Discussion Starter #1
So my son and I are continuing to work on this cougar to get it road worthy.

Background: We picked up the car at a charity auction because it was low millage ( 52K) / not rusty and appeared to be there do to a bad clutch. They demonstrated the car as running by jumping the relay under the hood and it ran nice the engine looks clean inside etc ( Like a low mileage car should) so we took a gamble and bought it.

After a few days of cleaning and sorting it appears that this was a very nice clean car, but fell into the hands of a tool ( last owner before the auction) and was likely sitting for 2-3 years since ~ 2017 . clutch master removal had been attempted as a hack and there is a mystery toggle switch under the dash and signs of an aftermarket stereo at some point .

When we got the clutch working I started the car at the relay under the hood ( Key did nothing WRT to cranking when turned all the way over). The car ran good and was zippy in the driveway ( Could easily turn the snow tires that were on it over...). I thought we were just about done, and I wanted to let it run for a while and it ran fine but stunk like it was running on old gas ( It was at 1/2 tank and ran it down to 1/4 tank or so)

I have been trying to sort out the electrical starting issue ( not cranking off the key) and determined that the car was missing the starter diodes ( removed by previous owner I assume for reasons I cant understand) under the hood. I got those from a scrap yard and no luck still did not start ...but I trouble shooted to the clutch switch and the car started cranking when I checked for power at the clutch switch with a test light. So i figured I was getting close. I started the car at the relay to charge the battery up a little and while it was running it started running very poorly then it cut out and would not restart at the relay. I tried starting fluid (either) and it restarted but continued to run badly ( So this is a fuel issue not spark). I suspected the gas was really bad , but have not figured out how to get the rest of the 1/4 tank of gas out of it yet. I cant get a siphon in it and it does not all run out when I disconnected the fuel filter. I thought I might try cycling the key to get the fuel pump to do the work with the fuel filter disconnected and its silent when the key is switched on ( No power? / bad pump?) .

Getting frustrated at this point and purchased the volume 2 electrical manual ( In the mail / on the way). It also appears that these cars have fuel pump issues from what I can tell on this forum. If I replace mine what should I buy? Seems like the whole unit needs to maybe be swapped due to design flaws ( Fuel pump, car still sputters and no power?long cranks...)

BL- trying to better understand what to do next. IF I cut the floor up to due a fuel pump I guess I can siphon at that time. Is there a check value to bypass at the fuel filter? Is it maybe just a clogged filter if I dont hear the pump turn on?

I was going to check for power at the fuel pump harness today. Can anyone tell me which pins to check and what min power should be?

Really hoping to have this car on the road by the 4th of July and now I'm not really sure what to do besides wait for manuals I bought to arrive in the mail.

Thanks,

Will
 

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You can pull the fuel pump relay and jumper across the main terminals to jump start the pump if you want to pump it out that way.
Otherwise, it is easy to finish emptying the tank once you pull the pump module out.
The pump has a sock-type filter on the suction that may be clogged up on you, but yes, you might as well plan on replacing the entire module since the only history you have on the car is bad history.
What is the PATS light doing when you try to start it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where is the PATS light?

Also tried jumping at the fuel pump relay with no luck last time. Will go back and check for power there..
pulled the back seat and got the following off my fuel pump.

"XS2U9H307CA15608142454A

Date 06-04-08

Part XS2U-94307-CA

Far right of label says

Ford
A
Shift"

So I think this means the car got the ford recall as the car is a 2002 and the pump appears to be dated 2008. Would like to try a little more to check for power at the pump / apply power to the pump before I assume its bad. Just need help to know the color code or pin out to apply voltage if I dont find any power.
 

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We're dealing with 20 year old cars (or nearly). You could be on the third or fourth fuel pump by now, that Ford TSB is meaningless at this point.
80750
 

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Yep, sitting for years is usually death to a fuel pump. Those things need to run occasionally to remain lubricated and free. The last car I bought had been sitting for 3 years or so, and had a dead fuel pump as well.

I've NEVER seen a fuel filter stopped up enough to cause a no-start, but it should be replaced anyway.
 

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Grounding that power wire to the clutch switch will bypass the PCM and send current to the starter solenoid, that's why it turned over when you did that. It would not actually start or run like that though.
Its sounds like the starter relay is bad if jumping that was letting you run, but the new problem of the pump not running at all sounds like either a bad pump or maybe (long shot) the inertia switch.
The pump has two large wires going to it, and three small wires (I think). The small wires go to the cluster, the large wires are power and ground so it should be easy to check if your getting power or not, even without a diagram. Those wires are easily accessible under the back seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can pull the fuel pump relay and jumper across the main terminals to jump start the pump if you want to pump it out that way.
Otherwise, it is easy to finish emptying the tank once you pull the pump module out.
The pump has a sock-type filter on the suction that may be clogged up on you, but yes, you might as well plan on replacing the entire module since the only history you have on the car is bad history.
What is the PATS light doing when you try to start it?
When I open the door the PATS light is blinking slowly. When I put the key in and turn to on it goes solid red for a second or 2 then off. Is that what its supposed to do?
 

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That sounds good. If it were blinking quickly or on solid, that would be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, sitting for years is usually death to a fuel pump. Those things need to run occasionally to remain lubricated and free. The last car I bought had been sitting for 3 years or so, and had a dead fuel pump as well.

I've NEVER seen a fuel filter stopped up enough to cause a no-start, but it should be replaced anyway.
I have a fuel filter to put in but I guess I will wait for the new pump.

I checked at the pump harness and pin 3 ( White with black stripe is getting power with the key rolled over). Electrical manual is on the way in the mail. Could I get confirmation that only one of the 5 leads should have power?

Finally since my car got a new fuel pump in 2008, I believe it has the "revised design" talked about in the forum. I would like to just replace the actual pump rather than the entire sender unit.

Looking for suggestions. Would prefer to pay less while I sort this cream puff out. Would appreciate your input.

Leaning towards: TYC 152043 {#XS2Z9H307CA - In-Tank; Fits only on Modules with Metal Support Rods. At $20 looking to take the gamble I can rebuild the 2008 model unit in there. Is this the right pump?

Thanks,

Will
 

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I believe the metal support rods are the revised design. The original sender clicked into a retaining ring on the bottom of the tank.

If you still have the old sender style, the cheapest pump replacement is from British American Transfer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I believe the metal support rods are the revised design. The original sender clicked into a retaining ring on the bottom of the tank.

If you still have the old sender style, the cheapest pump replacement is from British American Transfer.
Ok I think thats enough to take a gamble. Thanks for the input!

Will
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just wanted to share my progress before I head out to see family. Cut the floor / pulled the pump. Will try to get into it later to swap the pump in the sender.

The 5/16 Leslie fuel disconnection tool worked well but I had to sand it down a little to have enough room to fit. Hopefully these pics help the next guy out a little.

IMG_20200705_111312195.jpg
IMG_20200705_111341569.jpg
IMG_20200705_111352494.jpg
IMG_20200705_111401501.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any tips or tricks appreciated when installing the pump or inspecting the sender appreciated. I will try to remember to take some pics when I get back into to later tonight / tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Installed the fuel pump tonight and no dice.

Fuel sender is working for the gas gauge but the new fuel pump is not working. I may apply voltage to it to see if it was actually bad tomorrow...

My service manuals arrived tonight but as luck would have it its just the volume 2 and wiring diagram and it looks like I need section 310 from volume 1 to trouble shoot the fuel system. Any info from that section to trouble shoot would be much appreciated.

PS- Where is the fuel tank pressure transducer and could that be part of my issue?

Thanks,

Will
 

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You said earlier in the thread that the pump was getting power with the key in "on".
If that's still true, but the pump isn't running, check the ground.
You also had a lot of other indications earlier in the thread...Did you ever check the starter relay and the inertia switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ns earlier in the thread...Did you ever check the starter relay
So I have more to do with this car ( While working on my house in horrible heat and going to work) and its sort of a fill in project with my son.... Its also now taken way more time to get up and running than I expected so the wife is less than thrilled now when I get near it...

What I said before was that "White with black stripe is getting power with the key rolled over....Could I get confirmation that only one of the 5 leads" that should be actually getting power. Seems like 12 volts could be supplied to the fuel sender for the gas level independently of the fuel pump. Wondering if of 5 leads total really only one (White with black stripe) supplies power to everything in the sender. Might be able to figure out more with the wiring diagram FSM that I do have. Ideally I will get some info from Volume 1 but the copy I have stops short of the fuel system ( ~ section 300 ish)

Would the car have ran initially if it was the inertia switch was out ? Does not seem like that would be something that I could over ride when jumping under the hood. also does not seem like something that would cause a running car to supper then die out and not want to restart. The only way the car ever ran ( Does not currently) was with the key turned to on and jumping the starter relay under the hood. I could try swapping that out but I'm not sure that's the issue. FYI- Car still turns over with the starter relay jumped and fires on either.

Also- (Big senior moment here) I remembered that I started swapping out the fuel filter and stopped when I could not get the clamp to loosen. So its currently unhooked. I clearly need to get that back on and then re-check the pump but I would think that the fuel pump would at least kick on briefly. I will update when I get that part back together.

Thanks for all the support and advice. We really appreciate it.

Thanks

Will
 

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A bad Starter relay, Starter relay diode, or Clutch inhibit switch will all interrupt that starter relay circuit, and those are all easy to check.
The fuel pump circuit is pretty much the Fuel pump relay, the inertia switch, the PCM, the PCM power relay, the fuse, and the pump, those are all easy to check.
Try jumping the fuel pump to verify you didn't get a bad part off the shelf, then systematically check the rest of the circuit.

I wouldnt hold my breathe hoping Volume 1 is going to help, your problem is electrical, the rest of the fuel system is already proven to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
A bad Starter relay, Starter relay diode, or Clutch inhibit switch will all interrupt that starter relay circuit, and those are all easy to check.
The fuel pump circuit is pretty much the Fuel pump relay, the inertia switch, the PCM, the PCM power relay, the fuse, and the pump, those are all easy to check.
Try jumping the fuel pump to verify you didn't get a bad part off the shelf, then systematically check the rest of the circuit.

I wouldn't hold my breathe hoping Volume 1 is going to help, your problem is electrical, the rest of the fuel system is already proven to work.
Ok so here is the progress from this evening:

1) diodes check out showing 0.528 when the multi-meter is set to diode ( Unsure of units)

2) Starter relay works.

3) Start relay socket R7 under hood { wiring manual page 150-3 / C52}

Pins
1: 50-BB11A ( GY/WY) Voltage Supplied in start
2: 31S-BB12 (BK/YE) Ground , Switched
3: 30-BB10 (RD) Voltage Supplied at all times ( Not overload protected)
4: Not Used
5: 50-BB10 (GY/BK) Voltage Supplied in start ( Overload Protected), Switched

I see voltage at P3 all the time and P1 appears when the key is turned to on. There is no ground at P2 and applying a jumper there allows the car to turn over with the key. How do I further trouble shoot the switched ground?

4) Fuel pump

Fuel pump relay R1 under hood gets power when the key is switched on, but I don't think I see voltage at the fuel pump { wiring manual 150-57/C732 Fuel tank unit}

Pins
1: 9-RE31 (BN/YE) Sensor Signal Return (Reference Ground) (Fuel gauge return?)
2: 31-DA9 (BK) Ground
3: 8-RE31 (WH/BK) Sensor Signal ( Fuel gauge power? I have switch power here and the gauge appears to work on the dash)
4: 91-GA7 (BK/BU) Ground
5: 8-GA7 (WH/RD) Sensor Signal ( I believe this is probably fuel pump power but I do not have power here)

So other than pin three which appears to be for the gas gauge I don't see any other voltage (No Power on pin 5 / white with red stripe wire when key is on) . Trying applying power directly at pins 4 and 5 and also had no luck, Maybe I didn't have good connections so I may retry jumping at the pump again before retrying. Any other ideas before I pull that pump sender back out again?

All fuses under the hood check good. I did not check under the dash yet.

If its not too much to ask where are the inertia switch/ PCM/ and PCM Power relay ?

Thanks for your help on this. My son and I really appreciate it.
 

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Inertia switch is under the plastic trim in the drivers side footwell on the A-pillar. PCM is forward of the glovebox but you access the wiring from below the power steering tank. PCM power relay is in the battery junction box.

I would start with getting that starter relay ground squared away
 
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