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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off things you need: New gates belt you will need to pre order this. $20.00 Impact rachet (compressor) I believe it was an 18mm socket. Be sure to pick up a wheel puller if you are not sure what this is ask the person at the store you are buying it from and they will help you out. Wrench socket extensions screw driver flat and phillips.

Just for anyone out there that wants to put an easy bolt on that adds some nice solid HP and RPMs. Go in through the passenger side wheel well take the two screws out that hold the plastic inside wheel well on. I suggest taking the tire off. Don't forget to take the belt off. There is a tension device that a rachet drive should fit into perfectly. Turn it to one side or the other to release the tension on your belt. (this is a two person job one hold off the tension while other takes belt off. I ended up doing it by myself not fun. Once the belt is off. Turn on your compressor and put the impact socket on the bolt that leads into your cam (where the pulley is). Take the bolt off with the impact. The pulley will not come off by hand use the wheel puller to take it off be careful and precise. Install the new pulley and a type of gasket former to the side facing in to the engine. The old pulley should have remains of gasket on it. Use this as an example. Torque the pulley down to the specific torque that the pulley comes with. I believe it's 98 lbs then loosen one quarter turn then retorque to 40. This will create the seal.

I hope this is helpful to someone.
Mike
 

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Any problems yet? All I hear is that the UP is horrible on the Duratec engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The new Pulley that I got from ASP actually runs truer than the old pulley. I noticed the improvement right away. RPMs went higher quicker and there was alot less drag. It is I believe and inch in diameter less and like 3.5 lbs lighter possibly even 4lbs. Basically the old one is a piece

mike
 

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Forgot an important thing, a new bolt for the pulley. They are one time only bolts; they yield when torqued and CANNOT be used again.

The proper way to torque the pulley bolt:
stage 1: 120 NM (89 Ft-Lb)
stage 2: back the bolt off 1 full turn
stage 3: 50 NM (37 Ft-Lb)
stage 4: 1/4 turn more (90*)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yup good call thanks for adding that in there. In the instructions that came with mine it listed the torque specs but not the little things that you needed to know.
 
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Don't forget that putting the new pulley on can be a pin in the neck without the $180 install tool that Snap-On makes. What I ended up doing is heating the new pulley up in an oven at 450 degrees for around 20-25 minutes and then running out there and putting it on, it slid most the way on and then I finished it by whacking it a few times with a big a.. rubber hammer. after that, it was a piece of cake. And despite what a lot of others said about under drive pulleys being bad, mine definitely made a difference. I think the reason people say this is because it acts as a damper, but correct me if I'm wrong, but our motors are internally balanced. anyways, have fun with your install!

Christian


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got my belt from the same place I got the pulley they recomended it when I ordered the pulley I think it was from ASP and you can find out how to buy one on fastcougar.com that is where I got all of my parts just follow the links.

Oh and I didn't have to heat my pulley up to get it on it went on tight but pretty smoothly. And I agree the pulley is a solid modification for this ride.
 

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I love my unorthodox pulley! It is so much ligher then stock and a bit lighter then the ASP. It was a ***** to get it on though I just gave up after a while and came back an hour later and eventually got it on with a couple of hollow pipes for better leverage to tighten the bastard on. I also used gasket sealer after I got it on. I originally used the Contour how to so if anyone is using the one above look at the contour how to also if you get confused.
 
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