[CULASLUCAS]

I just got my SVT UIM, LIM and TB. RIght now I have the LIM next to me on the floor and am having troubles cleaning it. I used some Carb Cleaner (as there are no rubber pieces) and sprayed them a couple times and wiped them out with a rag...I want to get this really clean but it's extremely difficult with the secondary butterflies in there....I tried unscrewing them but they won't budge? Any ideas? Also a couple people have told me not to use a wire brush to clean everything out (UIM, LIM and TB) because it will ruin the 'special coating and will gum up faster' I know the back of the TB hass some teflon coating, but other than that...what's the deal? Thanks, also any other tips you wnat to add while I'm doing htis would be great! Thank you!!!!!

 

[mcon99]

i don't believe there is any coating other than the teflon on the TB. and even that I have heard being ground off with no ill effects.

and if you want to remove the butterflies for easier access, heat the screws before attempting to remove them (small torch works nice). i know the LIM i dismantled the screws came out with no help but some are a lot tougher for some reason.

i wouldn't even bother putting the butterflies back in anyways, but if you do, use thread locker or you risk damage...

 

[CULASLUCAS]

you're saying to leave the secondaries all out? wouldn't that result in low end loss??? Is it cool to use the metal bristled brush to clean it out then?

 

[Aries]

I may be completely wrong about this, but the reason using a wire brush might gum it up faster could be the same reason we use sandpaper on things we want to paint, it causes a rougher surface for things to stick to.

Like I said, I could be completely wrong, but it's an idea.

 

[CULASLUCAS]

ya...so what should I polish it with?? I've been getting it really clean...without the brushl...but I think it would be sweet to have them amazingly smooth

 

[jojolmnop]

go to your local engine shop and pay to throw your parts into a high heat cleaner (don't know real name) that is basically like a dishwasher from what i can tell. i don't know of costs b/c i can go onto the naval base auto hobby shop and use theirs for free. i'm planning to do so when i clean the uim and lim.

 

[CULASLUCAS]

is this totally safe or is there stuff I can't put in there? like rubber or anythin like that?

 

[Rikenbomb]

Partswasher. Basically a concentrated/special degreaser. That should do the trick. It removes grease with ease. Your parts should be safe. If you can pull it apart that might be better to do.

 

[CULASLUCAS]

how about buffing the inside of the LIM? will that make a difference or hurt anything? and I would like some more info on leaving the butterflies out...is that okay?

 

[atlas]

Now, I don't know much about this myself, just from what I've read, but it was my understanding that the ONLY difference (besides color) between our stock and SVT Upper/Lower Intake Manifolds was a "special" coating. Therefore, it would make since why you would not want to use a wire brush to clean it because if you lose that coating, your left with a stock UIM/LIM... which is what you started with.

The reason why people just don't send there Upper/Lower Intake Manifolds to get coated instead of buying new ones is that it costs the same amount of money. AND, you don't have to wait multiple weeks for 1/2 of your engine to be sent back to you.

I think thats all right

 

[CULASLUCAS]

uh...the SVT upper is dual extrude honed...and the LIM is bigger than the stock one on those made before 5/99

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by: CULASLUCAS
uh...the SVT upper is dual extrude honed...and the LIM is bigger than the stock one on those made before 5/99

Yeah...atlas - you weren't exactly right. In case CULASLUCAS isn't familiar with the extrude honing process, it more or less involves blasting the inside of the UIM with microbeads that remove some of the metal...think of it like sandblasting or pressure-washing a driveway. The 98 SVT contour UIM was single extrude honed, and the 99+ were double. The max for our cars is triple, and that's only speculative (as far as I know) since I don't think anybody's done it. That said, the difference between our UIMs and the SVT's is the inner diameter of the manifold ports.

 

[CULASLUCAS]

ya thanks, i didn't know exactly how they did that...mine's 98 so it's only single honed...I knew that when I bought it but I got an amazing deal on it...so is anybody gonna help me with my problem here?

 

[CULASLUCAS]

I just thought of using a toothbrush...long, kinda flexible and gentle...that should be great! Other tools that helped a lot: cotton swabs, toothpicks (plastic work best), and a 2" strip of rag I used to kind of 'buff' inside clean of debris.

 

[Cyko]

what does each honed session do? just repeat the process of blasting away at it/smoothing it? I guess that would mean there is a certain amount taken away with each?

 

[CULASLUCAS]

would sandblasting do the same thing? because I have free access to one!

 

[eurocrisp]

How do the insides of the stock UIM feel? is it rough, or something?

 

[sonza68]

The inside of a stock UIM is left with an as-cast finish similar to the out side of the UIM. The SVT units are much smoother, not polished-smooth, but better than stock.

As for extrude honing, my understanding is that the force an abrasive putty through the UIM and it takes all the rough edges off and opens the bores up some. You can find more info on the process at Extude Hone's website.

I don't think you could get the same effect by sandblasting since there are multiple 90 degree bends, so getting in to some of the places would not be easy. Also without access to some kind of borescope, you wouldn't be able to check on your progress and see if you missed any spots.

 

[eurocrisp]

hm, that sucks, i wouldnt have thought the inside looked like the outside. thats some pretty bum flow charactaristics.

 

[BrantlyJ]

If you have access to a sandblaster I would use it. Just put duct tape over the machined areas so you don't gunk them up. also make sure you rinse it very, very well.

Here's the deal on the polishing of the intakes. you want it to be as smooth as possable. Naturally so the air flows smoothly. any roughness creates turbulance which in turn creats an unsmooth flowpath. Once you have the air and gas mixture you want it slightly rough so it keep stumbiling the mixture and keep it atomized. however it is best to start with that totally smooth finsh and rough it up with some sandpaper in a criss cross manner. Unless someone had access to some small polishing tools I doubt this is feasable on our intakes.