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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be turbocharging my 99 I-4 MTX Cougar in the next month, and I have plenty of questions.
I already have all of the parts, so there's no turning back now.

First off, what happened to the Turbo FAQ?
I wanted to read more about what colder plugs people were using, what timings, and EGT temperatures.
Could someone tell me some experiences on these three topics?

I am planning on using a MAF from a 98 Mustang GT.
Does anyone know if there is a harness to go from the 5-pin to the 4-pin MAF connector.

I will list all of the parts I am planning on using.
I am open to some constructive criticism.


T3 XSPower Turbo 9 PSI of Boost (I have hear these can be crappy, so i'll find out)
Oil Cooled, 50 Degree Trim
External Wastegate mounted on Log Manifold
JGS Log Manifold
Trubendz Cat-Back Exhaust
Custom Charge Pipes
MAF Sensor before compressor and IAT after Compressor
Custom Downpipe
Not sure where to mount my O2 Sensor (Rear Sensor will be disabled)
3"x6"x20" Intercooler

SCT XCalibrator 2
98 Mustang GT MAF
42#/hr Injectors

Thanks
 

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I have the colder plugs that you need and the correct MAF.....pm me
I also have everything else
 

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1300 plus shipping, 180hp easy with like 8psi, it will easily go past 250hp, but then you are compensating your internals
 

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just an FYI tuning that will be fun! i had a hard time tuning my zx2 ( ihave the same engine 2.0 zetec) and i was boosted

xspower is JUNK

6 PSI is all the stock bottem can handle safly, anthing high you will run into a lot of problems
as for colder plugs

get this plug from ford

AZFS-22c they are 1 step colder and will run you about 20 $ for 4
 

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First off do a search. Mainly do a search of all posts by me or Afterhours. Both he and I are turbo'd, with homemade setups and we've posted alot in the past about stuff.

Secondly the stock Zetec block is actually pretty sturdy and more than a handful of people have done 300whp on stock blocks. That was done on racing gas and seriously large turbos and/or with nitrous and boost. On street gas around 220-250whp is about the max. That's between 9-15psi, but for the high HP figures you need a really big turbo and REAL good tuning.

I'm not exactly sure what turbo SPE is running, but I don't know if I'd push 250whp on pump gas with it. Basically you get either a small turbo for quick spool up and you'd only be able to push around 9-11psi or get a big turbo and could push up to 250whp, but you'd have quite a bit of lag.

In the top link on the main Zetec section there's a link called "FAQs anyone", that has a link to the Google cache of the Turbo FAQ.

I personally would not run a turbo that didn't have watercooling also. I put my first O2 sensor right on the downpipe right after the turbo, it should be good. DROPdat is right about the plugs. Tuning is everythig and so is timing. A decent basline timing is 10* advanced at 3000rpms at WOT for a quick spooling turbo going up to 15* at the redline. Though I've heard of timing as low as 6* at 3000rpms. The mid range timing is the most critical, the Zetec get max volume of air in the mid 4000rpms i believe.
 

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i also had a turbo set up that i fabricated from scratch and i hit 231 WHP, and 272 WTQ on 6 PSI with a IHI vj-11 turbo, probe/mx6 turbo ill list all that i had gimme some time
 

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Impressive numbers but that's a totally different platform. The Zetec is a different beast entirely.
 

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Seawulf, I think he's talking about his custom turbo set-up for his Escort......and they run the Zetec too.

That's some pretty impressive HP and TQ numbers for 6 psi on a small turbo like the IHI. What else have you done to the engine?
 

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No way he put out 270+wtq on a zetec with that turbo. Turbo Tom's kit only does around 230-240wtq at 8psi. Even Jon at HKS's super trick Focus setup did 256wtq(&318whp) @ 15psi.
 

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Hmm....270tq is pretty hard for a little turbo like that. Maybe a very,very agressive tune? Still would like to know the rest of your mods.
 

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213*whp sorry , but here it is custom made header by me w/2 '' piping, hks external wastegate, custom 2.5'' down pipe into 3'' exhaust, no muffler, no cat, 2.25'' piping to intercooler, 2.5 after intercooler all mandrule bent, 1 gen DSM bov, 80 MM pro-m maf, 42 lbs injectors, SCT chip tuned by Modular depot,
AF set at WOT at 12.7, 65 MM TB, tube/fin FMIC 6x30x3 core, motorcraft azfs-22c plugs, ford racing wires, MSD coil pack ignition retarded 6 *

turbo exhaust inlet was ported, had the compressor wheel clipped, manifold was ported and polished, Intake manifold was ported.....ummm there is more let me think , its been a while since i took it off, plus my tranny died,

and as for the engine the zx2 runs the same engine as the 2.0 cougar


the 2.0 Zetec with variable cam timing

also had a high tq stall converter, and running the tranny at FULL line pressure with a tranny cooler

the turbo also had the Thunderbird SC compresser wheel

this was also on race 105 raceing fuel
 

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i didnt touch pump gas with the turbo my niehgbor got out of racing so i just used his fuel that he had left over, 5 55gal drums of 105
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Afterhours, what is the reason you chose to run the BOV output back into the vacuum side of the air intake?

Was it because of sound or something else?

Also, does anyone know of any easy mods for keeping the coolant cooler?
For Example: different radiator fans or motor
 

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cbman,

My set-up routes the BOV aircharge back into the intake tract between the MAF and the turbo inlet. The PCM uses the MAF voltage to determine the appropriate fuel injector duration cycle. This has a direct affect on the air fuel mixture. By routing the vented BOV aircharge back into the intake stream, you prevent creating a momentary rich AFR condition.

Think about it this way, if the BOV was set-up to vent into the atmosphere, as air is metered through the MAF, the PCM thinks it has a certain volume of air going into the engine. When the BOV vents.....this metered air is vented into the atmosphere before entering intake manifold and the engine's cylinders. The PCM still thinks all that air is entering the cylinders.......and is metering the fuel injectors accordingly. Basically, it's dumping a lot of fuel without the air that it needs to burn and creating a rich AFR condition. When you route the BOV aircharge back into the intake system, that correct volume of metered air remains in the charge pipes......maintainng the proper AFR. You can run the BOV routed either way........but recirculating is a more efficient design.

As for sound, it's much softer than a BOV vented into the atmosphere......almost like a soft "Whooosh". I like the fact that it's not too loud........I tend to like the "sleeper" aspect of my car. Most people don't realize that the car is turbo'ed unless they notice the intercooler tucked behind the stock front bumper cover.........;)
 

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Buying a colder thermostat is a easy mod to keep the temps down. Stock is around 190. A 180 is easily avaliable, but so is 170. I got 170 and I like it. You won't really see much of a temp difference unless you change the ecu settings to get the fans to come on sooner though.
 

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Hey Seawulf,
How much of a coolant temperature drop do you actually get running the colder thermostat? I thought part of the cooling system efficiency is having the thermostat cycling open and close at the appropriate temperature to temporarily hold coolant in the radiator in order to remove heat by convection. Wouldn't running a colder thermostat reduce the amount of time coolant is held in the radiator?.....Hmmm, I guess it wouldn't matter because it'll also open and allow the coolant to flow at a lower temperature to begin with.

I'm running the stock thermostat, but I'm not having any problems with the car running hot or overheating.

Couldn't you just turn on the A/C to force the fan to run?
 

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I don't know all the ins and outs but I do know they did something to the chip to take advantage of the colder thermostat. When I had stock programing and I was driving to Arizona the outside temp was in the 105F range at night and I saw ECTs of 200 even with the colder thermo.

Since the chip I've never been in temps that hot but even in 100F days I rarely get above 185F during the day and around 170 at night at highway speeds.

Have you actually checked the temperature with a OBDII scanner or installed a guage? I wouldn't trust the in dash gauge for accuracy. I checked my temps with a scanner.
 
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