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Discussion Starter #81
So I have been having some problems getting it to build more than about 12PSI of boost. Even with the boost lines disconnected from the wastegates, it would spool super slow and only max at ~12psi. I can't count how many times I pressure tested looking for boost leaks or pre-turbo exhaust leaks. I also verified the cam timing and checked compression. Everything was great, which was super frustrating. I then thought about an exhaust restriction. So I pulled the cat and did a quick run with just the open downpipe, followed by a pull with just the cat bolted to the downpipe but the cat-back still unbolted. Lets just say, I found the problem.

The red pull is open downpipe and blue is with the cat. You can see how much faster the turbos spool. I also hit nearly 20psi before I let off.:rofl:

 

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Nice diag! You avtually throw it on a dyno to test it or is that a virtual dyno?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Nice diag! You avtually throw it on a dyno to test it or is that a virtual dyno?
These are just virtual dyno numbers but I made sure to use the same stretch of road and note the temp and pressure to make sure they were comparable to each other.

Hmmm... Do I detect a bit of humble-bragging here? Must really sucK having such few horsepowers and torques. :rofl: :ty:
This is fairly low power for these turbos. I have seen a pair of these make nearly 700 at the wheels on these cars with E85. Since im sticking with pump I wont see anywhere near those numbers but hopefully can touch 500AWHP. I will definitely need a different MAF setup first though as im already maxing the stock one at 2900Hz. :rofl:
 

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These are just virtual dyno numbers but I made sure to use the same stretch of road and note the temp and pressure to make sure they were comparable to each other.
that cool how it graphs it like a real dyno. theyre close enough anyways, i think my sct dyno was 10 or 15 hp off
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I finally picked up a test pipe and got it installed yesterday. I made a few minor changes to the tune, starting with lowering the wastegate duty cycle a bit and pulling a few degrees of timing up top to be safe. I also added a bit of timing down low to help with off boost power. This morning I did a pull on my way to school and ended up with the following.





There is definitely more to be had but will have to upgrade the MAF and intercooler setup first. Just the 2 degrees of timing down low made for an ~40HP gain at 3000RPM. For now I can optimize what I have and enjoy the power.
 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
I just finished retrofitting a set of mini 2" bi-xenon projectors into the factory fog lights.



The stock fogs were already projectors, but they have frosted lenses and the output is pretty terrible. here is the output of one stock fog light with a standard H3 halogen bulb.



vs the low beam of one of the new projectors with HID bulbs.



and the high beam of the new projector.



Because the factory fogs were already projectors, I had to machine some adapter plates to allow these new projectors to bolt into the factory housings with the stock adjustment mounts. I spent a few hours in the machine shop at school over several days last week and milled these out by hand (no easy access to a CNC).



I was then able to test mount the projectors in the stock housings.



And put the stock shrouds on. perfect fit.



I had to modify the stock fog light switch ground to bypass the dimmer switch to allow the fog lights to stay on with the high beams. Then I needed to find a place to mount the ballasts for the HIDs. I chose to screw them to the back of the aluminum crash bar as it kept them close enough to the fogs but out of the elements.



Finally, able to put first light through them mounted on the car. Unfortunately, my mounts were off just a hair so the projectors were rotated just a few degrees, easy enough fix though.



After fixing the rotation of the projectors, I wired up the high beam solenoids to the factory high beams and reinstalled the bumper. I then took it out for a test drive at night. Unfortunately I will need to add a diode to the high beam circuit as the solenoid is always energized when just the running lights and fog lights are on (headlights dont need to be on for fog light operation, like the fog light mod for the Contour/Cougar)

This is just the fog lights on high beams.



This is the low beams of both headlights and fog lights.



and finally the high beams of both headlights and fog lights.



Next will be to do a similar retrofit to the headlights. Unfortunately the headlights are a sealed beam style, so I will have to first find a set of H4 conversion lights that have a clear glass lens before I can figure out what size projectors will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Thanks guys. I definitely put quite a few hours into these between taking measurements and finding parts to actually milling out the adapter brackets. Im hoping that the headlights will be easier but Im not holding my breath.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Time for another update.

I had needed a way to get past the factory MAF limitations and decided I wanted to go with a Haltech Elite standalone setup. Haltech happened to have a nice deal for black friday so I picked up an Elite 2500, dual wideband controller, and an I/O expander box. This came with a basic harness, which was good since the factory harness had seen better days in its 27 years. In January I started to take it all apart and build a new engine harness from scratch using all new connectors, high temp sleeving, and OEM quality tape and heat shrink. I also decided to go with R35/370Z coils (same coil just different stalk lengths) as they have been proven to 2k HP on the GTRs so I should have no problem with spark output no matter how much boost I throw at it in the future.

The ECU mounts perfectly to the factory ECU bracket.



370Z coils



Out with the old wiring harness



I ended up going with dual Bosch knock sensors for individual bank knock detection and control. They conveniently mounted directly to one of the stock knock sensor bracket bolt holes.



I also went ahead and added a flex fuel sensor. While I dont have easy access to E85 currently, I figured it was worth doing now for increased power potential in the future.



The factory firewall grommet had been torn over the years as I had passed extra wires through for various aftermarket gauge sensors so I needed a replacement. Unfortunately it was a 60mm hole and the only grommet I could find in that size was for a MK1/2 European Escort. This meant waiting for it to ship from the UK and then pass through customs (felt like forever), before I could finish putting on pins and connectors. Once it showed up though it fit perfectly over the harness and had a nice fit in the firewall. This grommet also has 2 smaller holes that could be cut open and used to pass extra wires through (for the gauges).



I ended up switching to a DBW setup to eliminate all the cables running around the engine bay (stock has 3 cables for the throttle, pretty nuts). This also lets me use a lot of the great features built into the Haltech ECU, such as cruise control and throttle blip on decel (many of them are still turned off for now). As it turns out the stock DBW throttle body from a 4G69 in the 9th gen Galant (grabbed it from an 09) bolted onto the stock 3K upper plenum so I grabbed it and the matching pedal.

Test fitting the throttle body at the junkyard.


The cruise control required a single wire with no more than 5V going into the ECU, however the stock switches are 12V and there are 2 separate wires from them (one for the main power and one for the functions like set/acel/cancel). Since I wanted to keep it looking as stock as possible inside, I had to create a custom PCB that took the 12V signals, dropped them to 5V, and combined the two inputs into 1 output. The Haltech also wants to see momentary inputs, but the stock main switch was either on or off, not a momentary, so I had to deal with that as well. I also wanted it to fit in the factory housing and use the factory plug to make it the most plug and play as possible. In the end I created a custom PCB that mounts in the stock housing and only required 1 wire to be added (in a pin slot that wasnt already in use) to run to the Haltech.



Finally, after about a month and a half, I got it up and running nicely on VE mode (no MAF). Boost is still kept low at ~11psi and timing is super conservative in boost.

 

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Discussion Starter #93
Man that sounds good. It has to be a rip to drive!
And that is the stock cat-back!

Even on low boost with the conservative timing its probably around 350AWHP. The top end just keeps pulling with these bigger turbos (and a set of bigger cams that I previously installed with the last timing belt job ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Another update!

After I had done the bi-xenon fog lights I had wanted to do the headlights as well. I decided on using the much nicer Morimoto parts for the headlights and ended up going with the Mini-H1 projectors, 4500K XB bulbs, and mini X5-R shrouds. I used some generic 4x6 H4 sealed beam conversion housings with a glass lense (so there is no worry about them yellowing over time). Because of the length of the projectors with bulbs I had to space the bucket that headlights mount in 12mm forward within the popup mechanism but all of the factory trim pieces still fit perfectly.

80641




The shrouds include integrated switchback LEDs that I wired to the corner lights. This video shows how they look during the day both with the lights up or down. I really like that they shine through the flasher lens nicely.

Ultimately the end result was some amazing light output. The low beams have a very nice sharp cutoff line with a huge amount of light on the road.

80642


80643




And a quick video of the switch back LEDs at night.

 
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