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Discussion Starter #61
I really like EvoScan, but I like having the Tactrix standalone logging even more. with the correct logcfg.txt file stored on a microSD card in the Tactrix you can have it log all the time or onl when certain paramiters are met, such as going above 75% throttle to start logging and then stop after going below 75% throttle. I can even pull the SD card from the Tactrix and put it into my phone and view the .CSV file on it and make notes on what needs to be changed when I get back to my laptop. This is really handy if you have the Tactrix plugged in, and accelerate hard to get on the interstate and see the CEL come on. on the 3S ROM the CEL can be set to come on when the PCM sees so many counts of knock (which is configurable, I have it set to come on at 2 counts or higher).
 

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so does the evoscan tune 1g or 2g dsms? cuz i wanna tell my buddies to use that instead of maft.

the tractrix that seems very handy but not unless i have nothing to use it on. none of my friends have anything its compatible with. neither do i.

my original goal was to have live tuning on my cougar, but i would been to either purchase the strategy or make it myself




sorry 3 different subjects in one post....


id like to talk to you more about it, but we can pm to keep things on topic here, if youd like
 

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Discussion Starter #63
EvoScan is just a logging software that with the correct xml files it should have no problem logging the DSMs. OpenECU is the tuning software and some 2nd gen DSMs have a flashable ECU that can be used. I have even heard of people swapping to Evo ECUs in their DSMs and then using OpenECU to tune them.

The Tactrix is the flashing device required for the OpenECU to flash the ROMs. It also functions as a datalogger and just an OBD2 to USB cable for the EvoScan logger.

This setup still cant due true live tuning, but it has stock driveability and the ability to adapt to changes in weather without having to change the tune. If you want true live tuning you have to go piggy back or something like AEM standalone.
 

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see i had a few ppl tell me evoscan was a tuning software, but from looking at it i only thought it was a logger. which confussed me

yea i was thinking about possibly doing megasquirt, iv played around with that probably as much as i did with the sct program, and i helped tune a ls3 swapped s13 on megasquirt

if you have the tractrix you can use it on as many ecus as you want correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Well I believe it does have the ability to read and write ROMs to ECUs but i dont believe thare are many (if any) ROMs written for EvoScan. they are all coded for OpenECU since the software is free.

I dont really know much about the Megasquirt systems, but from my understanding its really only limited by the hardware you choose these days which makes it a pretty nice system if you have the skills for the hardware and wiring. one thing thats really nice about using a stock flash ECU is it plugs right into the factory wiring so you can always look at FSMs for any wiring diagnosis you may need to do in the future.

the Tactrix doesnt lock to a vehicle like the SCT products. I can tune as many 3S cars as I want, or any other car that I have a ROM for. You can also build a tune, email to someone, and then they can flash it with their own Tactrix (or even a borrowed one). there is no serial numbers of the unit that have to be entered into the tune for it to work with the Tactrix (just have to make sure the code matches the ECU numbers).
 

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Yea. Well thats good. May have to get the tractrix someday soon

And you can even use , the stock wiring for megasquirt if you know the pinouts on the ecu, so its still pretty easy. Im just gonna have trouble building the MS ecu itself.

I was gonna try to run quarterhorse on the coug and it does have live tuning but im gonna have to spend another 800,when i already have sct.. doesnt seems worth it at the moment
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Yeah an additional $800 just for live tuning isnt worth it to me. I have no problem taking the laptop with me, logging a pull, making any needed changes, shutting the engine off, flash the new file, and repeat. I currently only have about $400 into this tuning setup, minus the $300 I sold my stock 93 ECU for so im only into this for ~$100. I just sent money this morning to one of the guys who modifies a few various ECUs to be 100% clones of the stock 99 VR4 ECU so once that arrives I will be able to control boost via the ECU now. :evil: even after that Ive still got less than $300 into this setup.
 

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PHP:
Well live tuning gives you the real benefit of spark, and how it improves max hp, as well as improve throttle response, another benefit is it actually is to tune lower cells for daily driving, because WOT pulls cannot really accuratly represent any part throttle cells.

I would recommend this for any turboed cars that arnt factory turboed as it would make tuning alot easier and make the car run alot better
 

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Discussion Starter #69
That only works if you are on a dyno that can hold a set load. then you can go through cell by cell and maximize timing throughout the map. however if you are on the street you still have drive it and log (or have a passenger with you that knows how to tune as well). as for the lower load part throttle cells you can still adjust them but generally the stock tune is really well done with lots of resolution in that range since that is the area the car will run in 90% of the time. Obviously things like larger injectors may still require some changes (especially with colder ambient temps) but for the most part you can copy the stock map when below 80-100 load (over 100 load in most cases is positive boost pressure).
 

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Like you said the injectors woud throw it off. The dyno i usrd has eddy current brake so im good in that area.and even to tune my maf transfer function i had to load up my engine. So honestly unless i just wanted hp numbers id never use a non eddy current dyno
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Yeah, if you have access to an eddy current dyno live tuning is a nice feature to have. Unfortunately they can be hard to find, even worse for awd vehicles.
 

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Yea in my town we have em. But we have no awd dynos at all. Everyinr has to take. 5-7 hr drive to seattle or portland so im actually looking into getting an awd dyno sometime and start a business.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Ordered 4 new OEM ECS struts from IPS Motorsports on black friday sales for %30 off dealer list price. that made them only ~$147 each instead of the normal ~$210 each. I also managed to be one of the first people on their site at midnight and managed to get a 99 rear center garnish (reverse light setup basically) for just $0.01 plus shipping. Its normally about $165 new from the dealer or ~$130 used. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I never did post pics of the 99 rear garnish installed.



I also finally got some new wheels. they are gold XXR 530 in 17x9.75 with a +25 offset. even with the crazy offset I still had to get some 3mm spacers to clear the front calipers. I used the same tires I had since they were only about a year old, since they are a 245/45/17 they do have a minor stretch to them but once they wear out I will be getting some wider summer tires for these wheels and winter tires for the stock wheels.



Need to get it washed and then ill get some better pics but we still have snow falling today so that will have to wait a little bit longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Installed new stock ECS struts with Tein S-Tech lowering springs (about 1.5" drop) along with new upper mounts/bushings/spacers/etc. I had the new struts already assembled so it was a very quick swap, about 3 hours total start to finish. tomorrow it gets an alignment and a good bath.

 

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Discussion Starter #76
Going to bump my old thread. I guess not much has changed since we moved to Colorado a few months after the last post. That said, I have an update.

I have had an issue where after getting back on the throttle after coasting down really long downhills (think 6 miles down from ~11,000 ft to 9,000 ft elevation) it would smoke really badly. It looked like oil and I could mitigate it by applying some throttle periodically while going down the mountain. I figured it was the valve stem seals leaking under high vacuum for extended periods of time. I hadnt bothered to do anything about it as it required removing the cams. Well, it was time to do the 60k service (timing belt and water pump) so I figured now was the time to replace the seals as well as new valve springs and 1G cams (old springs are just soft and the 1G cams have a little more lift). I started taking everything apart Thursday, and that went smoothly. Friday, I borrowed a friends homemade valve spring compressor and started on cylinder 1. Three valves in and I noticed I accidentally nicked one of the cam journals.

scuffed head 1.jpg

Damn it! Thankfully its an easy fix. Just sand it down to flush with the rest of the journal as the cam caps take all the load.

scuffed head 2.jpg

After fixing that I carefully finished the rest of the seals in the front head. I then started removing some parts around the rear head for better access, a large bracket and one of the rear turbo heat shields. Upon removing the heat shield, I find this lovely hole in the turbine housing.

turbine hole.jpg

As it turns out, machining the housing for the larger HL turbine wheel can leave the wall quite thin in some spots. Some housings are better than others due to casting variations, and this one must have been on the thinner side. Off to hunt for a new turbine housing. The only problem is that there are 4 different housing combinations, front, rear, small lip, big lip. The large lip CHRA can use either the small or big lip housing as small lip can be machined to fit without issue. The small lip CHRA must use the small lip housing, which only came on 91 an 92 model years.

CHRA comparrison.jpg

Of course, my turbos were made from small lip CHRAs. Thankfully I have a friend in Chicago who just happened to have a spare rear turbine housing, and based on the part numbers it appears to be the correct small lip. Perfect, now to wait on shipping so that I can confirm its correct. Then I get to ship it off to be machined to fit. In the meantime I finished installing the rear head valve stem seals and replaced the turbo coolant line fittings on the thermostat housing as the stock ones are pressed in and like to leak eventually. So much for having the car back together by the end of the weekend. At least now I can now also order new heater hoses and have the injectors cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Well after doing some searching it looks like I have found a TD05 kit that includes a pair of MHI Evo 3 16G turbos. These things are capable of 700+ AWHP if I care to build the engine to hold that and turn them up with E85 in the future. In the mean time though, I will continue to run pump 91, which has still shown to make 500AWHP.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
While I was waiting for the turbos to show up I spent some time rerouting the main wiring harness that goes to the engine. Originally it ran right across the top of the trans from the passenger frame rail after it split from the rest of the harness that goes to the fuse box, radiator fans, and AC components. I was able to remove the wire loom, and pull the necessary wires out and reroute them around the back along the firewall and then across the trans under the coolant neck so they are less visible when everything is installed. I only had to extend 7 wires to make that work so it wasnt even that difficult to do, just a lot of trial and error making sure everything cleared before wrapping all the wires back up. I will get some pics of the finished wiring before reinstalling everything, probably this weekend.


The turbos also showed up on Saturday along with ported stock manifolds, a custom front roll resistor bracket for clearance, and custom O2 housings/downpipe.

New TD05 Evo 3 16G vs old TD04HL 16T.

E3 16G vs TD04 16T.jpg

Custom aluminum roll resistor bracket vs stock iron piece.

stock vs custom bracket.jpg


Sunday I swapped out both exhaust manifolds and got the front turbo with O2 housing bolted on as I had the needed gasket for that. I picked up a gasket set today to get the rear turbo bolted on, but probably wont be able to do so until this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Here is the rerouted wire harness. It used to run across the front of the trans where the small harness for the ignition coil hotwire relay currently is (which might still get the wires extended and rerouted too).
Wire harness relocate.jpg


Front and rear turbos are now bolted on as well.
Front turbo.jpg

Rear turbo.jpg

Just need to figure out the oil and coolant lines and some intercooler piping and it can start all going back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Lots of waiting on parts only to find I need a different angle fitting or some other BS. It finally runs though. Started it up yesterday and let it come up to temp to burp the cooling system. Today it gets the wheels put back on and a test drive before putting it back up in the air to install the various splash shields and front active aero tray. Also need to flash a new tune that turns off the boost solenoid and limits it to the 12psi wastegate springs for now while I figure out what ramp rate and max duty cycle is needed.
 
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