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Discussion Starter #42
not sure how much power its making but im running 15PSI on 11G turbos. while i cant find a compressor map for them im pretty sure they follow right along with the rest of the MHI TD04 range and slot perfectly between the 9B (stock) and the 13G. assuming that is true 15PSI from a pair of them is roughly .30 cubic meters/second or ~635CFM. add in the pre-turbo pipes, removed pre-cats, larger downpipe, and it should probably be around the 400+HP mark i would think. of course, since i havent had it dynoed thats just speculation. Jaged can tell you how fast it is though. :biggrin:

as for the trans, no havent had any problems with it. contrary to popular belief the transmission isnt actually a weak point, especially on the 5-speeds. the week point in the drivetrain is actually the output shaft to the transfer case (especially the 91/92 models with the 18 spline shaft, the late 92+ models got a 25 spline shaft that is much stronger). the other weak spot for the 1st gens (91-93, 93 was a crossover year) is the aluminum transfer case housing, but add a nice bracket/cage or replace it with a billet housing and its not an issue then. even without the bracket or billet housings, its not an issue unless you launch it hard regularly.
 

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not sure how much power its making but im running 15PSI on 11G turbos. while i cant find a compressor map for them im pretty sure they follow right along with the rest of the MHI TD04 range and slot perfectly between the 9B (stock) and the 13G. assuming that is true 15PSI from a pair of them is roughly .30 cubic meters/second or ~635CFM. add in the pre-turbo pipes, removed pre-cats, larger downpipe, and it should probably be around the 400+HP mark i would think. of course, since i havent had it dynoed thats just speculation. Jaged can tell you how fast it is though. :biggrin:

as for the trans, no havent had any problems with it. contrary to popular belief the transmission isnt actually a weak point, especially on the 5-speeds. the week point in the drivetrain is actually the output shaft to the transfer case (especially the 91/92 models with the 18 spline shaft, the late 92+ models got a 25 spline shaft that is much stronger). the other weak spot for the 1st gens (91-93, 93 was a crossover year) is the aluminum transfer case housing, but add a nice bracket/cage or replace it with a billet housing and its not an issue then. even without the bracket or billet housings, its not an issue unless you launch it hard regularly.
Sounds sick man. Good luck with the build
 

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its funny to ride with daniel because if you pay attention you know when hes going to gun it because he sits himself back in the seat.

the car pulls like a monster
Warp speed. Engage.

 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Wow, cant believe I forgot about this thread. I was searching google for something and a link to here popped up. :rofl:

Some of you already know this and have seen the pics but I thought I would just go ahead and update this thread to help keep it all together.

so over the past 1.5 years the car went under some major work. back in October of 11 the output shaft to the transfer case stripped. as a result i ended up rebuilding the entire powertrain. rebuilt the engine, trans, and a new transfer case. the trans got a beefed up "300M" output shaft (not the car, its a material spec as used in F1 axles) so I should never have problems with that again. It also got a nice new transfer case brace, COP conversion, new metal dash vents, and a clean "new" steering wheel.

I dont want to see any more Zetec people complaining about changing the timing belt. I can replace this one in the car in less than 3 hours working casually.










finally I replaced the old OBD1 PCM with a nice 99 flashable "Chrome ECU". The new PCM needed an OBD2 port so I mounted one in the single din cuby under the radio, just out of the way enough to not be an issue, but easily accessible to plug the Tactrix cable into for tuning and logging.




Im currently running just 6PSI of boost and according to virtual dyno (which seems to be pretty consistent when compared with stock vehicles) im making 257AWHP and 257TQ. I would like to get it on a real dyno to see just how accurate it really is but according to the logs its seeing ~466CFM (roughly 300-320BHP so thats about right). Im now looking for a set of 450cc injectors (DSM blacktops are a direct drop-in) and a 255LPH fuel pump along with a 3-bar MAP sensor (already ordered) and a wideband before turning the boost back up.



Some of the neat features with this setup are launch control, NLTS, anti-lag, stand alone logging (with the tactrix), and stock like driveability (unlike most of the piggy back systems). If I run out of MAF resolution I can just swap in an EVO 8 MAF, change the scaling and size in the ROM and flash to the PCM. back up and running like stock with a higher resolution maf within minutes. the same thing for the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
After several months of emails, phone calls, and PMs I finally received the correct redesigned rear sway bar from Addco/3SX. the bar is a 1" steel bar, up from the 22mm stock size bar. what a huge difference it made in the handling of the car, much like going from the stock to BAT bar on the Contour/Cougar. Installation was a PITA as you have to lower the entire rear subframe in order to carefully maneuver the bar in/out without stretching (or braking) the brake hoses or ABS wires. 3SX says it should take 8-10 hours, but with the help of my Fiancee it took about 3 hours (best woman ever as she willingly helped me with the install).

the stock bar is directly on top of the new bar with the old, incorrect bar next to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Got some 450cc injectors installed last week and got the tune adjusted for them. still waiting on the EVO MAF and trying to find a MKIV Supra pump for a good price. in the mean time though the IAC decided it had lived long enough so I replaced it yesterday.

the evening rain storm left just in time for a decent sunset though. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Picked up an Evo 8 MAF 2 weeks ago. Still need to figure out an adapter harness for it though before I can flash the tune for it. I also decided that the 11G turbos I had werent big enough so I stepped up to some TD04H-16T turbos. these are capable of ~435+CFM each which should be good for near the 500AWHP mark. :evil: the bigger "H" turbine wheel (vs the standard TD04) does slow spool by about 300RPMs but its worth having the extra flow up top.

they were a direct drop in setup using modified stock turbine and compressor housings. an old 11G on the bottom compared to the new 16T on the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Updated "dyno" plot with the 16T turbos and some tuning. There is more to be had but this is a pretty conservative and safe tune that I have been running for months.

 

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looks good man. strangely enough though..i noticedthat it says the graph is at smoothing 1 but is that max or min smoothing? on mustang dyno smoothing 1 wouldnt be any at all. and your graph is pretty smooth
 

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Hmm...interesting. cuz thats a pretty smooth graph. Lol.
Good numbers tho
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Lots of pulls and analyzing the logs in order to smooth out the timing and fuel maps makes a big difference. If I had a better way to control boost (full 99 VR4 ecu can control boost based off engine load instead of manifold pressure) then I could actually get it to increase boost pressure in the higher RPMs to maintain the torque curve better. the AFR looks a little rough in the plot due to the fluctuations in the boost pressure (which look way worse than they actually are).
 

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Thats not really what im talking about. But no the tune looks good. Hard to explain and piontless. I just wish my coug pit down that much power. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #57
you are talking about the little ups and downs that typically are seen in the graphs. smooth transitions in the tune from one load or RPM cell to the next is a big part of what smooths those out and not needing a high smoothing factor in the dyno software. There are other basic things that help too, like good hot coils and plugs (hot wired COP units and NGK coppers in my case), properly working FPR that rises with the boost pressure smoothly, and clean injectors for good atomization and mixture all go to having good consistent burns in each cylinder which help smooths everything out as well.
 

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Well in that case then your tune looks great! What software are u using?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Its called OpenECU. Its an open source flash tuning software that was designed for quite a few Mitsubishi and Subaru chipsets. If someone knew enough about the Ford chipsets and their language they could probably breakdown the ROM and make it work as well as long as it communicates using the J2534 standard. Both the Mitsu and Suby ECUs have a "flash wire" that gets fed a higher voltage from the Tactrix connector to put them into "flash mode" in order to flash the ROM via the OBD2 port. obviously the Ford ECUs dont have that since you dont have to connect anything up other than directly to the OBD2 port.

you can read through the basics of tuning the 99 3S ROM here.
Chromed ECU | Tuning
 

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I actually did alot of reseach about open ecu. I was trying to find a way to decode my ecu to be able to use open source software but the computer tech i talked to said youd have to know what your lookng for in order to do that. I even gotmybin file for my ecu and im just stuck at making a strategy for it.

But i have done little tuning using maft on dsms and gonna do more since all my buddies are into them. I really wanna try evoscan tho
 
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