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While I was doing the swap I broke the by-pass valve/ideler, would the Contour's work or should I order one for the Cougar?
 

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Hi, I did the upgrade with no issues, everything seemed good. However after ignition the car was not happy, the CEL keeps blinking and I get error codes for cylinder 2,4,6 misfire. During the upgrade I noticed that one of the gaskets was missing the little pin the goes in the engine to hold it in place until the UIM is lined up with it, I believe the gasket might have moved a bit when I put the UIM. This morning I also noticed the throttle body is upside down but I don't think that would effect it. Please let me know if the throttle body can have a bad effect if upside down, I am already getting the gaskets replaced on Monday.
 

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If the throttle body is upside down there's likely an air passage through the EGR ports, these route through the UIM right to the throttle body mounting surface and are sealed by the throttle body gasket.

It's still a good idea to replace all the gaskets you took off during the swap though. Especially the TB.

How did you even get the TB to install upside down? The cables wouldn't have connected or anything! Was it a case of get it mostly back together and hear her purr?
 

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How did you even get the TB to install upside down?
That was my first question as well. You can't do that and hook up the cables as well, as the bracket only goes on one side...
 

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I was just as puzzled but everything clicked when I put it upside down, I will try to post a picture when I get home today. But here is the latest.

After replacing all te gaskets the issue was still there the car pretty much threw a fit it would stall, buck so on and I also got a lean on sensor 1 and 2. After breaking my head for hours I figured I would replace the MAF sensor with the Original one since I just left the Countours MAF. And just like magic everything came back to normal no more stalling or choking, I finally tough everything was fixed but today on my way to work the check engine went off and it says I still have a lean on sensor 1 and sensor 2.

Here is the reading at idle I was not able to get it wile driving I'll true later today.
RPM: 729
Sensor 1 voltage: .740 Short term fuel trim -2.3%
Sensor 2 voltage .595 shirt term fuel trim 99.2%
I checked for vacuum leaks there are none, I even ran seafoam just for the hell of it but nothing, the lean came on after the swap so I am confused, I have already returned all the original sensors to their place since I was afraid the countour came with problems. Sorry for my punctuation I am wringing thins on my phone. Any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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Just to avoid confusion they are both bank one sensors, and I just to be sure it was not a vacuum leak I went as far as replacing the LIM gasket.
 

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You didn't put the throttle body on upside down, the SVT TB rotates differently from the MTX throttle body so it looks different. So we can take that out of the equation. It's probably a gasket issue. Did you use new gaskets or reuse the old ones?
 

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I replaced the following gaskets:

UIM
LIM
Throttle body
EGR

They are all new I also did a vacuum leak test and there are no leaks. I pretty much used the O2 sensor to diagnose the vacuum leak as well, I used this troubleshooting guide http://www.aa1car.com/library/what_is_fuel_trim.htm
I accelerated my car and cording to them if it was a vacuum leak the trim% should lower since when the car is under load it should not make a difference. However they said if the trim% remains constant even wile accelerating the car it's possible a fuel delivery problem. But the car had to check engine or lean error until the swamp so I am lost. I am just concerned now because according to the article states that at 10% it's a problem that's has to be looked at my cars fuel trim is at 25% under load, I added 2 pictures one when the car is idle and another when under load, tomorrow I am bringing it to the shop and checking the fuel pump pressure just to be safe. My dad think it could possibly be the oxygen sensor but I told him if that was the case they the lean error would have gone off before the swap as well, any input is greatly appreciated. ImageUploadedByAG Free1409100383.091483.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1409100407.482900.jpg
 

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Ok so I guess using the O2 sensor trim as a vacuum test is not so accurate, according to the ford tech I stopped on this morning to ask for his opinion, he also ruled out the O2 sensors since it's both bank 1 and bank 2 giving the lean error code. They offered to do a vacuum test for around 225$ using the smoke, but they won't be able to look at it until next week. After speaking with the tech I went to the parts side of ford and asked the guy his opinion he said that possibly my fuel pump can't keep up with the extra demand because of it being old but he was bit able to get the fuel pump pressure he said all it shows is a test tool but he did not know what pressure it should be at, does anyone know what's the normal pressure for the pump? Also he mention it could be the PCV. Now here's something that might be what's causing it, ever since I had my car even before all this swap back to when it was all stock but it had a short ram instead if the air box I noticed when I turn the ignition off after driving for a wile you can hear air being pushed out trough the air box I tough it sounded cool so I never bothered looking at it since I never gave a check engine, but every time I drive the car and I turn it off I get that swoosh noise of air being pushed out to the air box it almost sounds like it's extra air that the engine pushes back out to the air box when the ignition is off, could that have anything to do with the lean code?
 

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I did the gas pressure test the readings were normal, car is supposed to be in between 40-60 it was reading 47-52psi, also this morning I unplugged the MAF just to be sure it was not a faulty MAF, the fuel trim jumped from 25% to 54% so that rules the MAF out if the equation, I was thinking in replacing the EGR valve, are there any other valves that could possibly cause this issue, the idler valve is 2 years old it was replaced to fix the auto acceleration issue so I don't think it could be that.
 

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I replaced the EGR this morning and the values came down by 10% I think I am border line of a check engine coming back since according to other sites it usually triggers a 10%+ if anyone has a tool that can check the fuel trim and has an SVT Lite swap can you please post numbers here I would really appreciate it. ImageUploadedByAG Free1409329470.890797.jpg
 

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A CEL won't be triggered until the computer reaches the programmed limit for adding or removing fuel. This is usually around 25%. 10% either way is considered normal tolerance for older cars. Unless your CEL returns I wouldn't do anything.

So far as fuel pressure, no. First off, the fuel pressure is not adjustable. Secondly, the actual issue should be addressed instead of compensating for it. That's the computer's job.

Also, this isn't the correct forum. You need to be posting in the "Problems" section.
 

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Can anyone tell me where I could buy the SVT UIM and TB online? I've searched everywhere to no avail. I don't want to call a junkyard and seem desperate :/
 

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They have popped up on eBay every now and then, but it's pretty rare at this point. The FS section here or over at CEG is your best bet.
 

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VERY noticeable on a manual trans car, as it is set up with an entirely different linkage, and increases throttle response dramatically.

Not much difference on an automatic.

Not much power to be had with only a throttle body though; it's just there for the increased response, until you also upgrade your intake manifolds to match.
 
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