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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys; any info. on installing svt cams while the motor is in the car, would be appreciated. Links to existing 'how to's' welcome also..cheers G.
 

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support engine, crank it to tdc. remove uim, lim, valve covers, top motor mount, and other things on the top of the motor you think might get in the way. remove power steering pump, belt, other things that may get in the way of removing the timing cover, and timing cover. remove existing timing equipment and install in reverse. that's a basic rundown off the top of my head right now. it's more detailed than that, and is by no means an easy process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
streetracer8605, thanks. Access to the end of the block and the timing gear is the tough bit. Any advice and experience on this part ? Any helpful tools that are needed ? Does driving with SVT cams without the SVT ECU cause damage...i want to remap my own ecu after....cheers G.
 

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For different reason Sonza and Slurpee removed a timing cover in the car.... not easy at all ... problematic at best. Every bolt on there needs to be torqued down to the right spec and in the right order.

Best bet you really need to get your hands on a Chiltons or Ford CD for doing this part of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For different reason Sonza and Slurpee removed a timing cover in the car.... not easy at all ... problematic at best. Every bolt on there needs to be torqued down to the right spec and in the right order.

Best bet you really need to get your hands on a Chiltons or Ford CD for doing this part of the engine.
Thanks for the heads up Moraki; after reading the chiltons, I felt it was just a formality (lol). Out of curiosity i'm gonna find out how many hours the local stealership price into this job...that should be all the encouragement i need to get the torque wrench out. :biggrin: ..G.
 

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Good luck man...i want nothing to do with trying to put those timing chains on the engine with it still in the car.

But your right, they stealership or even a local garage is going to throw a BIG number at you for labor on this one.
 

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streetracer forgot the valve covers. which means the coil and plug wires need to come out. be extremely careful when installing the cams to make sure to get them in the right spot. check the ford manual, or fastcougars marvo gato build thread in forced induction section hes got good pics of it in there.

2 bolts of the alt bracket have to come off as well(bolts onto the timing cover), so that means that the alt has to come off as well
 

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I've done this 4 times, all on different Cougars and Contours...

  • Disconnect battery, of course!
  • Remove UIM, Coil pack, plug wires
  • Valve covers and injector harness
  • Support engine from top, or bottom with a jack and larger block of wood
  • Remove pass. Wheel, splash guards, and tie rod end from knuckle (needed to remove ALT.)
  • Make sure the complete injectors harness is removed!
  • Unbolt the Coolant Resevoir to access motor mount, remove lower and upper parts of that mount
  • Remove Serpentine belt
  • Unbolt Power Steering assembly, and swing the resevoir with hoses still attached and assembly over as far to the driver's side as possible...try not to spill!
  • Remove Alternator and its bracket from timing cover
  • unbolt timing cover bolts as per order in chilton's, haynes, or Ford CD manuals.
  • Remove the Crank Pulley bolt, and the crank pulley.
  • Make sure you don't miss the 2 lower timing cover bolts that hold it to the Oil pan!!
  • Now remove Timing Cover...
  • Remove left timing chains, guides, and tensioners.
  • Then remove right side chains, guides and tensioners.
  • Take note to make sure they are put in order the were removed...kepp left side parts with left, and right side parts with right!
  • Now unbolt the Camshafts, take note to remove the 2 outer bolts for the Water Pump Camshaft just above the water pump on the block.
  • Reverse installation... keep in mind to check torque specs and order of tighteneing sequences during reassembly...

Hope this helps! :)

I can give Installation steps, too if needed, but you'll have to check the sequences and Torque specs... i don't have that much time to list them all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks aircougar1. can you tell us please; how difficult and how to go about the timing components. From what i've read, you have to move up and down between the engine bay and the wheel well to get at the timing components. Also; did you have difficulty with the timing marks and chains themselves ? If anyone has a list of gaskets which MUST be replaced along with those which may be reused, please post. I'm grateful to any members for info/experience..it would be great to get a comprehensive 'how to' put together...cheers G.
 

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Basically follow the Haynes or chilton's manual for timing marks, HOWEVER, do not pay any attention to the part about the timing marks on the BACK of the cam gears!! They will NOT line up no matter what you do! as they aren't stamped in the right place... I haven't seen one full set of cams line up that way...

You have to make sure the lower cam gear at the Crankshaft is set @ 11 O'clock and you will see the engraved timing mark on the gears... look at the chains and you should see 3 yelloish/orangish dots on 3 of the timing chain links for each timing chain... These will be the marks for the Chains to match with the cam gears and lower crank gears...

When reinstalling the Camshafts, DO NOT tighten the camshaft Journal Caps all the way down, just finger tighten the bolts so that the caps won't pop off when rotating the cams (the cams should be able to move freely by hand with no problems)... Do this for all 4 cams. Then start on the right side and line up the intake cam's timing mark so it is pointing at 9 o'clock (parallel to the top of the head), and then the exhaust Cam so that the timing mark is pointing @ 12 o'clock (perpendicular to the top of the head). Then take your timing chain and line up the 3 orange marks on the chain to the 3 timing marks of the 2 cams, and the lower crank gear (which should be around 5 o'clock on that crank gear)... if its isn't quite lined up, keep the mark lined up at the crank gear, and slowly rotate a cam to get teh marks lined up...

Once you have the marks set with the chain's marks, keep some tension on the chain with one hand, and then install the guides, right one first on the right head, then the left guide on the same head... Hold the tension with the left guide on the chains with your hand, and then install the Hydrualic tensioner into position... After it is bolted down, release the tension of the tensioner, and the timing is now set for the Right head... Repeat for the left head!! :biggrin:

NOTE: You MUST collapse the Hydrualic tensioners prior to installing them back into the position...!!! Before installing the cams and chains, take the tensioner, and use a vise with a towel wrapped around the jaws of the vise to prevent gouging...Plave the tensioner into the vise so that you can push the piston of the tensioner back into itself, while using a small thin nail or screwdriver, placed into the small hole to help release the black piece above the piston and guide it back into the tensioner. That black piece has teeth on it which keeps the piston from going completely back into the tensioner... Once the piston is COMPLETELY back into the tensioner, use the nail and place into the smaller hole to hold the piston in its place (it will not slide out now)... It is ready for installation, and when it is bolted down in the motor, to release the piston and put tension on the chain's guides, just pull the nail out, and the piston will push out to the guides....

Again, the haynes and chiltons should explain this, too...:)

Make sure to put sealant on the 8 spots of the motor where the oil pan and heads meet the block, as well as the 2 halves of the block meet... this is also described in the manuals...

You might be able to get away with reusing the gaskets if they aren't compressed completely flat, if they are, then new Timing cover gaskets would be recommended, and possibly a new Timing cover seal (for the crank pulley), since you are already in there... Make sure your valve cover gaskets are in good shape too!! If they have any signs of oil leakage, replaced them as well!

Good Luck!! :biggrin:
 
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