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Discussion Starter #1
Introduction
Through purchasing of incompatible parts, I've learned that my car has a 2.5L engine originally from a Ford Contour (Have no idea what year.) At any rate, a friend suggested that the sound I mentioned hearing in another thread could be coming from the main belt tensioner. When I ordered one for a 2002 cougar with the same engine the new part does not fit. I was aware that Cougars and Contours share some of the same engines so I decided to look up the belt tensioner for a 2000 Contour and sure enough, it was a perfect match.

Problem
Thing is, after reading the owners manuals for both vehicles, I've noticed several differences in regards to the type of oil, coolant and etc. is inherently different. I'm having some issues with the car, particularly from overheating at the moment, I'm not sure what fluids I should be using. Do I use the ones from the Cougar or the ones for the Contour? And is there any chance the car needs to be calibrated to said engine for some reason or another?

Thanks!
 

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They are the same.

The belt tensioner (the entire timing cover) changed for 2001, but all 99-00 cougars matched the contour.

Recommended Oil is 5W-30 for 99-00 And 5w-20 for 01-02, but that was an arbitrary change made to improve overall fuel economy numbers. Either will work fine and would have zero bearing on coolant temperature.
 

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Yeah, it might not be an engine swap. There are a handful of parts that had design changes over the years and you might just have a mixed group of parts.
For the 01 and 02 cars, the serpentine belt routing and length changed a little bit, the idler pulley was deleted, and the tensioner was changed and relocated a little bit. However, they never bothered to change the belt routing diagram sticker so the sticker doesn't reflect reality.
If your tensioner is installed with a hex bolt, its probably the 01/02 style. If its installed with a Torx bolt, its probably the 99/00 style. If you have an idler pulley at all, than you probably had an engine swap, if not than you probably haven't. If you had a swap, it could be from a Contour, but it could also just be from a 99/00 Cougar. Theoretically, its even possible you could have a 3.0 swap and not even know it.
 

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Or they could've just swapped the long block and reinstalled the 2002 Cougar timing cover. That's what I would've done.

Post some pictures of your engine and we can tell you what you have.
 

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+1 for not worrying about fluids. it's the same crank, pistons, bearings, everything; same engine. Heck, you can run it on green coolant, too, so long as you flush the old orange stuff out with water before making the switch. Oil formulations have changed over the years, too. if you're curious, PQI of America has some really interesting info. https://pqia.org/resource-center/ https://pqia.org/passenger-car-motor-oil/ it really helped me make sense of 'high mileage' stuff, royal purple's reputation, the whole 'I-put-Rotella-T6-in-everything-ever' guys, etc.

as far as calibration, the intake manifold is the same, and the exhaust difference is negligible; cam profiles and injectors are the same too; you don't need to worry about ECU tune.

Best of luck with your car!
 

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Back to the problem though...Overheating is pretty unusual.

1. Are the water pump belt and tensioner in good shape and spinning properly?
2. Is the fan functioning properly?
3. Inspect the water pump. First visually inspect the pump in place, there's a tell-tale leak hole near the bottom that will show evidence of leakage (snail trails) if the mechanical seal is shot. If no leakage is evident, and it spins free and smooth by hand, then its probably okay, but you could also remove it altogether and open it up to make sure the impeller is intact.
4. Inspect the Thermostat. There are plenty of you-tube videos that will show you how if don't already know.
5. Flush and refill the coolant system
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It is a 2002 model, and I don't have to mess with the timing cover to change either of the belt tensioners, You all probably knows this already but the main drive tensioner on mine is on the passenger side of the engine while the smaller one that runs with the water pump is on the driver's side of the engine. You don't have to remove anything from the timing parts to access these, or at least my dad hasn't. Lol. And I simply can't seem to figure out why it is overheating. When I first got the car, it was gunked up but we flushed it with water for awhile and then put on a new water pump (The stupid plastic ones), a new radiator and a new thermostat (180 I think?)

I know it normally calls for a what what was it, a 192 or 196? Anyway, it eventually stopped and for the longest time I had no overheating issues whatsoever. Now it overheats when a large stress is placed on the engine, particularly when going up hill. having the ac or defrost on doesn't change these results. Running the heat full blast in the car doesn't make a significant change either. However, the car's heat never really got that warm for some reason, except for when it started overheating recently. then it's fairly hot. Lol.
 

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Poor heater performance was my primary indication when my pump was leaking.
I think when the car is running, the vacuum at the suction of the pump draws air in through the tell-tale hole. So while you're not losing a lot of coolant, you're also not pumping a lot of it either.
 

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Last time I had an overheating issue that didnt involve a leaky injector Oring setting fire to the engine was when one of my radiator fans quit working, and it sounds like you've changed everything else. That resistor thing on the bottom of the fan shroud may have stopped working on it as well.
 
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