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I added some to my tank last week and after about 1/4 into it I could DEFINETLY feel better acceleration. My MPG went up by about 1-2 and she has more kick in her now.

It's like $8 a bottle and good for 3k mi. I really recommend it.
 

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i think i will try it out, i figure it is entirely safe for the vehicle..do u have any other sugggestions, i heard something about octane boost, any feedback would be appreciated
 

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I did a FI cleaner awhile back as well (although I think it was the STP variety) and I really felt a difference as well. my MPG has gone up a notch or two, and it seemed to tug a little harder. Not a performance mod, but definately feels like it's doing some preventative maintaince. It suggested doing it once every 3k, so with an oilchange you'll be doing your car a favor.
 

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Can I tell you all a little secret....come closer...closer...
Slick 50 and those other TV and no name fuel and oil additives are all snake-oil...junk...water for all you know. I promise, but many of these additives can cause problems with cars. Additives like Red Line fuel system cleaner, or Chevron Techron fuel additives are safe on all cars. Though the Red line stuff may be a little harsh. Some of these additives are not cat and 02 sensor safe, and others are soo harsh, they cause internal damage. The "Emmissions Pass" fluids that guarantee you'll pass, do work, but they are soooooo harsh, many people have cloggec their engines with gunk that broke off in chunks inside their engine safter using those things.

Chevron Techron fuel additive used every 3000 miles (every oil change) will help keep the injectors, valves, etc. clean. And it won't hurt your engine. Too much of it can be bad, so be careful. The other gimmicks are dangerous, so watch out.
 

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i'm gonna disagree with this for the reason of experience.... my dad was the main sponsor of a late model local dirt/ashphalt track race car... every week we would empty and refill the oil adding some of the slick 50 stuff (not the fuel addidtive the oil additive) ... we did this every week of the season to a little 327 motor that screamed 7000-8000 rpm nightly... we reved about 1500 rpm higher than all other drivers that season and we won almost every single feature race that year too... the motor finally did let go towards the end of the season but it was also not supposed to make it past the first few weeks (the motor was used already for 2 seasons going in)... the motor itself was nothing really special just your run of the mill race motor... we attributed the longer life of the motor to using slick 50, yes this was the oil additive but the crew chief swore by slick 50 products left and right
 

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And puckpuck, i bet you are right...but I can guarantee, what woks on big block engines will not work the same on smaller engines. Running Mobil 1 Trisynthetic oil will prolong the engines life, and keep it nice and clean inside. Things you need to watch out for is:

Every car is affected differently in every way (common sense). But let's take BMW for a moment. They use BMW High Performance Synthetic oil...can I tell you a secret...after working for a BWM dealer for a while, I found out it was just Castro Synthetic oil. Well, to tell you all another secret, castrol synthetic oil is not a real synthetic oil, but a mineral based oil. Also, it has high ash deposits. Well on BMW's the oil works great, actually better than great, but on my previous car, my ford probe, after I ran Castrom Syntec for 2000 miles, well at the time I changed to mobil 1 trisynthetic, the castrol was black, and grainy (filled with ash). I was afraid i killed my engine. It's the same with fuel and oil additives. Check with ford, and see which additives have been found to work. The reason I like techron is, it has been proven to be safe on all gasoline engine cars. Chevron Gas stations (none where I live) gasoline all contain techron. Smaller amounts of it than you'd add, and in a slightly weaker form, but nonetheless it is techron. It's a synthetic detergent that just helps the gasoline flow better through the pipes, injectors, and helps clesn up stuff on the way by dissolving it.

I usually stay away from additives, and just use the best fluids I can find, such a Mobil 1 Trisynthetic motor oil, 93 octane gas, etc... The only additives I will add is Techron every 3000-5000 miles, and Red Line Synthetic Water Wetter to my radiator resevoir. It'll keep your engine much much cooler...it's osme good stuff.
 

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ok i see your line of reasoning.... makes sense to me
 
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As you can see below, my performance mods include a K&N Filter and Borla exhaust. Now from what I know, an intake is simply inhaling hot air, which doesn't really provide any additional power, even with a performance exhaust. What have you found with your KKM and exhaust? Is the KKM worth the $$$ and does it along with a perf. exhaust give additional power?

Thanx.
 
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So are you saying that Castrol Syntec is bad for our cats? I just switched to that at my last change. You're scaring me....
 

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Here's my experience. I've never believed in the stuff, but...

My friend recently traded in his Jeep for a VW Jetta. I helped him clean it out and one of the items was an unopened bottle of Slick 50 oil additive. He said I could have it. He said he used a bottle in his 83 chevy and it helped it start a little easier. Some time passed and when I went to change my oil, I decided that it was one less bottle of oil that I'd need to buy so I used it. Anyhow, the engine DOES seem to run smoother than it ever did. I always used to have some mild roughness from about 3000-3500 and above 6000. The engine is smooth as silk now. I'm not saying it was necessarily that slick 50 stuff... the engine may have just finished breaking-in or something. But, it sure didn't hurt (I hope ;)).
 

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And for oil, I always use Mobil 1. Both in the engine, and their synthetic ATF in the tranny. Every time I change it, it almost looks like I'm throwing away good oil...
 

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OK, since everyone is putting their $0.02 in, I might as well join the crowd. I used to use Chevron with Techron all the time in my cars. Recently I went to Pep Boys to get a bottle and they were all out (figures). So, I bought a bottle of Valvoline SynPower complete fuel system cleaner. I put it in with a tank full of Sunoco 94 octane and went on a 200-mile trip. By the time I got back the car was running smoother (not that it was running particularly rough to begin with) and it was starting easier. I would recommend Valvoline SynPower and Chevron with Techron to anyone looking for a 3,000 mile fuel addditive.

As far as Slick 50 goes, my fiance's father has an 91 Chevy G-20 van that he takes immaculate care of. Recently, (around 60,000 miles) he started noticing a little puff of blue smoke exiting through the exhaust when he started the van (hey, it's a Chevy, what can you expect? :biggrin: ). He put a bottle in and it took care of the blue smoke issue and he swears up and down that the van is running smoother and he is getting better milage (this is from a guy who a log book of every tank of gas he has put in the van, since he bought it, and how many miles he got to the tank). My father has also used Slick50 in his '89 Volvo 240DL and that now has 230,000 miles on it and is currently in the hands of my brother.

I have to agree that most of these info-mercial automotive waxes, polishes, fuel and oil additives are junk and probably do more harm than good but everyone I know who has tried slick 50 continues to use it from vehicle to vehicle and swears it works.
 

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about the injector fuel cleaners... this topic was up and i told me dad about it, now he's not a mechanic but he's sponsored race cars since i can remember and he's always in the pits hanging out with mechanics and the like... anyhow fuel injector cleaner is good everyonce in a while. Just like high octane gas what it does is it burns hotter therefore burning up all the carbon deposits. The downside is that it may burn too hot, so overusing it can cause damage. Sometimes my dad is wrong, but usually he's right. So for thoses of you who run injector cleaner stuff i would say no more than 1 bottle per 10K miles.
 

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The only thing I would disagree with is high-octane gas burning hotter. The only real difference between regular and premium (aside from alleged "detergents") is that Premium actually burns slightly slower than regular and is slightly harder to ignite.
 

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Frank is correct... Octane is a colorless, volatile, inflammable liquid, found in petroleum. The octane quality of a gasoline is its ability to resist detonation. Detonation occurs when the air-fuel mixture reaches a temperature and/or pressure at which it can no longer keep from self igniting. This is the reason that most street cars have between 8 and 9 to 1 compression ratios, this enables them to run just fine on regular 89 octane gas. In fact, in most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner’s manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won’t make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. In fact, high octane gasoline does not outperform regular octane in preventing engine deposits from forming, in removing them, or in cleaning your car’s engine. In fact, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires that all octane grades of all brands of gasoline contain engine cleaning detergent additives to protect against the build-up of harmful levels of engine deposits during the expected life of your car and it keeps it running cleaner protecting the environment. What I find funny is when people insist on using some type gas because it is "better." Honestly, all the gas comes from the same place. There are a handful of refineries around the country that produce gasoline. Every gas station, in the country, gets their gas from these refineries. They then add their detergents. The fact of the matter is that they all add the same detergents, you'll see it when you go to the pump and it says "This fuel includes MTBE." That is one of the detergents required by the EPA. Granted some companies may add a combustion enhancer to help the gas burn more completely but that's about it.

Opps, go way off topic there... Sorry about that.
 
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Adding to 155 cougar:

Mineral oil is the same be it Castrol ot O'Reyle (Did I mispell that?). One thing that bugs me is people saying that Mobil is better than Castrol, or the other way around. I was in an autotech class in High school and am going to become a mechanic and from the MANY oil changes I have done, mineral oil always looks nasty after 3000 miles.

MOBIL 1, however is different.

Now, I know I said that MOBIL and CASTROL and every other oil is the same, but synthetic oils, or blends are different.
To begin with, some are only blends of syntetic oils and mineral oils, but even the mobil one and other syntetic oils look different after being used.
Mobil seems like the best one when it comes out.

Sorry about the long reply, but that was just my two cents.

Andre
 
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