how do i change my serpentine belt? I know it isn't a difficult process, but I've never done it myself and it'd be nice to have a printout of instructions for when I do do it. also, what tools will I need?
I don't have it readily available on the Ford CD but I'm positive that you can get to it by removing the passenger side wheel & taking out that black well plastic. There should be a panel you can open to get the belt.
Not going to start a new thread for this but with no info (really) on how to do it I just finished mine and found it to be extremely easy...and I have big hands too....Just gonna post a mini how-to to hopefully save some people from having a shop do it.
1. Parking break, Jack it up on stands, get passenger front wheel off, etc.
2. Now you're looking at the inside of the wheel well. You'll notice several black pieces of plastic that block your view of anything. Looking straight at the rotor there will a be a piece directly to the back right of it held on my two 10mm screws. The piece should have a notch in the upper left area of it. Take that peice off.
3. The tensioner looks kindof like a top heavy "8". You have the spring loaded part which is much larger than the pulley below it. Find the little pulley (smallest one in there and it has NO grooves on it. On it you'll see a little 13mm square. I just used a medium sized craftsman ratchet (with no socket of course and stuck it in there.
4. Now rotate the ratchet clockwise. the belt will become slack. Since you don't have a lot of leverage you may need to really give it a hard pull. I used a screwdriver to slip the belt off of the crankshaft pulley. As soon as you get the belt off of the crank pulley release the tensioner.
5. Remove the belt. The trick is that since the tensioner pulley is attached on the outside (whereas all other belts are attacked to the inside) you must at some point slip it out behind the belt tensioner pulley. It should be pretty obvoius that it's the only way it's coming off.
6. Reverse of install...sort of. I started by feeding the belt around the alt, power steer, and ac pulleys without really worrying about the tensioner yet.
After I did that I slipped it up around the back and into place on the tensioner. Now the last was the crankshaft. At that point you need to move the tensioner again and slip it on the crankshaft.
7. make sure by sight AND feel that it's on correctly. If it's not you must fix the problem. This is where it would be handy to have a spare guy in case the belt was only halfway on up top. Once it's on good DON'T forget to remove the ratchet.
8. Fire it up and check to be sure it's running correctly.
9. reinstall black wheel well plastic piece.
All in all I spent the bulk of the time with the other stuff (jacking/removing wheel well piece). Once I hooked up my ratchet to the tensioner it probably only took all of 10 minutes.
Well, hope this helps somebody. I looked everywhere but couldn't get a good how to and just said Funk it...I'm going to give it a shot.
Me and my friend did it without taking the wheel off as well. He has some sort of special tool that gets down in there and sticks into that square ratchet hole, and you pull on it to release the tension. Its a real PITA to do that way though, since you have such small space to do it in. Looking back it probably would have been easier to take the wheel off. Its all personal preference.
And preclose, normally I harp on people for bumping old threads, but the way you bumped it is exactly how it should be done! I just get annoyed of people bumping a 3 year old thread to say "Me too". Major Ultra-super props for searching and bumping this the way you did!
I don't have pics, nor will I be taking them, but I used a craftsman woodclamp, in a backwards way to push the tensioner back by prying off the metal behind the headlight, took the belt off the pully on the front lower passenger side, removed wood clamp, then belt, and reversed the process. I could change it in amout 5 min. The main thing is to get a load on the tensioner. If you have someone to help you a nine iron, bar, etc, to keep the pressure on while you remove the belt from the pully you should be fine. However, taking the wheel off and using a rachet would probably only make it a much easier to get the load off the tension, and it will make it easier to wrap the belt. Overall just better mechanics.
Seriously, this is the only tool you need and it should be the only one you use:
Use that to take tension off the pully to remove the belt. Snake the new one around the same way (as shown on the box). When you you have the lower pullys hooked just push on the tensioner and hook the upper pulleys.
A second set of hands helps, but it can be done by yourself.
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