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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At long last my bodykit got to the UK :cool:, anyone give me some pointers on fitting.
Been advised to buy new tape also got a couple of tubes of Sikaflex adhesive which is a very tough and flexible and used in the trade.
Do the ends of side skirts fit ok or do the inner wheel arch liners have to be cut back for a good fit, heard a few stories about sagging skirts with tape so is it best to bond them on or tape and bonding together ?
Any help appreciated :)
 

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No kit fits as good as a Roush Kit! ;)

A well prepped car with Double sided tape is all you need. Clean both surfaces and get a can of Adhesion promoter.
 

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Some people have made brackets out of sheet metal to help hold the side skirts up along the sides. That's if they are sagging. If you use silicone adhesive like you said, then you should be good.
 

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roush is the best fittin kit ....well also its the only one i have messed with
 

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Get a buddy to help you hold and position the panels in place.
Although it isn't really necessary, removing the wheels to aid in drilling the screws in the inner fender parts of the kit.
Take your time and make sure everything is good and clean and the adhesion promoter def helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the info, on the skirts the screws at the end, do you take out the existing few screws that hold the inner liners together and re-drill, or is it best to cut the liners back a bit to get a flusher fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The place that is spraying my kit says to fit it to the car before spraying as the rear valence and skirts are so flexible. Is this the best way or does spraying first then fitting afterwards make for a better job.
 

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I sprayed mine first. As long as the paint shop uses plenty of flex additive, or whatever they call it, in the mix, there won't be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Think i might pop in and see the bloke, he did mention something about a plastesider or something added to the paint, just think it would make a better job than masking up the original bodywork etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Roush didn't use any glue when they sold the cars back in 2000, so I don't think it's necessary. Mine has been on year-round for over 2 years now with no problems, with only 2-sided tape holding it on.
 

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now bennet did you use a lite grit sandpaper on your car when you put the body kit on to hold the tape better?
No.

I used a paint-prep cleanerthat I got from Advance, and wiped down both surfaces; then buffed it dry with a microfiber towel. Then you must use NEW, FRESH 3M tape.

No sagging, no separation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does anyone with a lowered car with the Roush kit have any grounding problems ?
Kit not on yet but did a dummy run and with the car lowered 35mm think i might have a few problems.
In the UK we are plagued by speed humps everywhere anywhere off the main roads, should i consider raising her !!.
Don't really want to go down that route but i can see the first decent higher hump making a right mess of the skirts and front valence.
PS it will eventually be silver, red and black was the only colours Readyparts had left :biggrin:

 

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I have Roush Springs (1.2" Drop) and I've never had and clearance issues. :shrug:

The Roush fronts don't sit any lower than your stock bumper. ;)
 

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the roush sides are a lil more than an inch lower than the front bumper, if you have speed bumps there all over the place you might want to raise your car a lil bit so you don't scrap anything, i've only scrapped once or twice with no damage
 
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