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The factory swaybar has a bend in it.
Its hard to tell from your photos if that's the bend we're seeing or not.
The good news is that even if you need a replacement, you can still install that one until you find one. Replacing the bar is easy without removing the subframe.
If you do need a replacement, you should be able to find one from a MK1 or 2 Mondeo pretty easily.

New control arms are available from Rockauto last I checked. If not, again, just find one from a Mondeo.
You might be able to install the bolt for the control arm backwards so you can remove it again later without dropping the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I bought the 4 new rear arms at Rockauto and the two front arms that I have already fitted.

Does the torsion bar have a curve ?, in the straight leg right side?

Ok I'll look for mondeo mk1 and 2 bars

The ST have a thicker rear? anyone know that reference?

So it has been painted with a thick coat of anti-rust and the 4 new arms and the 2 new "tie rods or links" as well as the two silentblocks.

81662


Very black? Yes, I would prefer an orange and better if it were powder paint.

By the way the new arms are more reinforced

81663


I do not know if it looks good in the photo but they are also soldiers underneath for about 25cm.

As the state of "Alarm" or "Emergency" has already ended in Spain (If it does not work again because people here on the street do things wrong)
I can move to another province (like a state but smaller) and we have it scheduled for the end of next month.

So I'm in a hurry to finish cougar repair phase one.
I have yet to finish:
  • Mount Subframe.
  • Mount the right rear shock absorber assembly.
  • Clean and mount the rear brake caliper with new pads and discs (in another phase I will remove them and change gaskets as I did with the front ones).
  • The same with the left rear wheel.
  • Purge the brake fluid well.
  • Mount the interior ceiling with an insulator on top (I leave it pending to upholster it since the upholstery is still attached to the ceiling)
  • Clean a little more the plastics of the ceiling and doors and mount them.
  • Something that I always forget ...?:unsure:
  • The famous IMRC :confused:
  • Pass the inspection ...
-To be able to use it until October that if everything goes well I will start a new job and I will have to have it stopped until I manage to make a warehouse-garage-workshop on a land that I have near where I am going to live and so I can start phase 2
- I can think of so many things to do in phase 2 ...
 

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Good you have new control arms! Your right, the new ones are improved over the originals.
If you remove the swaybar and take a photo of it by itself so we can see it better we can tell you if its damaged or not.
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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The stock bar has a bend in it on one side to safely clear the fuel tank. There is no bend on the other side because the filler neck is on that side so the bar isn't as close to the fuel tank.

Yours looks perfectly normal to me. I don't think it's possible to bend that without ripping it off the car in the process; that's spring steel. It doesn't bend, it always springs back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Yes, you are right, the stabilizer bar has the bend in the gasoline inlet area, the direction of the bend does not coincide with the blow of the arm and as you say it is made of steel that would have destroyed the subframe.

As a newbie I usually think of the worst.

Putting the subframe on myself has been more difficult than removing it ...

But what has cost me a lot of work is raising the shock absorber to the projection of the suframe.
This shock absorber is so hard that when I lifted it with a small lift the whole car would lift, I had to tie the shock absorber to the torsion bar or stabilizer with a sling, compress the spring with a compressor, and lift the shock absorber.

I would have missed having 4 hands to push and lift at the same time

Now I understand why the mcpherson is abandoned to use Multilink with separate springs and shock absorbers ...

Mcpherson = force and levers
 

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Spring compressors help. I've also had success putting the wheels on the car and then slowly lowering it, using the weight of the car to compress them. This can be tricky and you need to really pay close attention to how everything is moving but it's smooth as butter when it goes right.
 

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You will have a lot greater range of motion on each rear hub if your sway bar is disconnected.
 

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As a newbie I usually think of the worst.
I'm an oldie and I still think of the worst.
 
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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Today I have finished the wheel.
I saw a new ford focus that had the disc protector plate the same color as the disc and if you didn't look closely it seemed to make the disc bigger and I decided to try it and I like how it looks, I think it looks better than all black .

If I make the other wheel fast, I hope to remember everything and it will be easier this way.

I liked how it looks, now the front and rear measures the same, from the wheel arch (fender?) To the ground.

It has gone from having a soft and noisy low ass to having it high, very hard and quiet, with only one wheel!



81667
81668
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
I forgot to tell you two things:

First, I have discovered that the hygienic masks (covid19) that we discard are very good to clean, I had heard about the coffee filters for the internal parts of the engine but I have not tried it yet.

Second, thinking about the future in another cougar ... as I have lower and softer rear springs, I have read in metal forums that steel springs (I am not talking only thinking about cars) recover their hardness (hardening phase not tempering ) heating them to 250ºC and letting them cool down very slowly, there are people who do it in the oven to cook ...

That is an upcoming experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
A question

Are there two rear brake pad wear sensors and only one front one?

I do not have the right front cable and I look for it but I do not see any cut or loose cable in the engine
 

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81669
 

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^^^ Those are ABS wheel speed sensors, OP mentioned brake pad wear sensors. There were only three brake pad sensors, both rear wheels, and the LH front wheel.
 

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Only one front brake has a sensor because they wear very consistently from side to side.

I think brake pad wear sensors were included on both rear wheels because of the potential of uneven wear due to parking brake cable issues.
 

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Oops. Failed the reading comprehension test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Thanks for the clarification, because I have spent some time looking for where that cable was cut, I am glad that it is that way of origin
 
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