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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Two days of use, my first impressions:

1º With all the suspension renewal that I have done, the car goes like a train, it is very flat in the curves, it does not wobble, I can make a complete turn to a round (roundabout) with the car practically flat and that makes all the I work on the grip for the tires, it is normal to hear them complaining in the curves, I have mounted very bad and old tires that do not convey confidence to me.
I think that the 205/55/16 that I am riding is visually and dynamically narrow but of course the options are to mount a Michelin Pilot of that size that are very well priced and give very good grip or to test with wider rims and sizes .. .

2º Because of this above and because the direction is not well aligned, I notice the direction very nervous, but precise, if it transmits the feeling of the road to me? I do not know, you want to lower the pressure of the tires a bit, I still do not know, what if it generates a feeling of driving at a higher speed than driving, on the mountain road that takes me to work, this The road is very slow and with many curves, ups and downs, I have the feeling of going fast but when I see the speed it is almost the same as the one I use with my daily car.

3º I am used to circulating in the range of 2500-3500rpm with cars of less power and playing with the manual gearbox to go at the right power for a quiet-economical behavior, with this car without realizing it I am going to 1500-2500rpm and in very gears long, I hardly need to change gears in all gears it has strength.
The problem is that when I need to overtake (two-way mountain roads and a single lane) when going so low RPM and in high gear I have to downshift to have a quick response since I am not going at medium speed but at very low regime
I know this is not the fault of the car and if a vice of the driver.

4º I cannot know at what RPM I go with my ear, in other cars I know how the sound of the engine is proportional to the RPM, in this car at low the engine does not sound at all at medium speed "roars" and at medium high it does almost same noise (I have not exceeded 5500 and I have bad IMRC) I suppose that above 5500 rpm it will make a higher noise, one of my children wants me to change the exhaust silencer and remove the PRE CAT from the exhaust manifold ( that with 216,000km they only have to brake the gases) to hear the engine well.
Maybe he is right but that will wait until he can lift the car well in the future.

5º Today I have seen when I get to work that I have a very hard radiator hose and I think the fault is shown, everything seems that the explosion chamber and the coolant circuit are communicated?

6º In the ITV they told me that the gas test that they did at 2500 rpm gave 1 that is the result of a perfect mixture of air and gasoline, even so it is giving me a consumption of 8.4L / 100km in an economical driving when going To work with 20% city 80% Mountain road, maybe it affects that I do not know what RPM range is better to take it on these roads. I do not know if it would consume me less to circulate in a lower gear in the slow sections.
With my other car, a citroen C elysee, with a 3-cylinder engine, 1.2L atmospheric 82cv, gasoline, variable intake and exhaust and 1055kg on this route makes me a consumption of 5L / 100 km

7º When turning the direction to the top, making direction changes in parking lots, the tire makes a strange noise, I don't know if it is because of the alignment of the direction by the tire or because I still need to tighten the transmission nuts.

8º Since I know that the car is not going to explode with the Moosing it does it a little less, If it is when I take my foot off the accelerator and when he wants it, it is as if he were alive, especially he does it near pedestrians and cyclists. Next week I will get with him.

9º Next week I will be able to repair the IMRC I really want to repair this but in normal driving the car does not exceed 4000 rpm (fear of traffic fines.)

10º There are versions of the Mondeo-Contour that have a 6-speed gearbox, does anyone know if it is adaptable?
With that strength it lacks gears I have the feeling that in 5th gear everything could be done
 

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I have driven up hills at 1500rpms in 5th gear and it just goes and goes and goes.

Driving over 5500rpms is still so weird to me because in my head I need to shift but I still have 750 rpms left to get to max power and since its not really the fastest revving engine it feels really long. But I also already have revved it out to redline and up there you can instantly hear and feel when power starts to go away. Still tho right outside of the town I live in is a roundabout and when I come home from work its not that unusual for me to go into second and just "pedal to the metal" it out of that roundabout on to the straight and just let it ripp up to 6500rpms. THAT is when the Cougar feels extremly fast. First the Forces from the turn, then all of the torque just pushing you into the seat..... plus I don't go alot over 100km/h in second gear

I get around 8L/100km if I can hold myself back. And honestly for what kind of car you have its not that bad since its advertised to get 9,5L/100km. Some are getting 10L/100km or 11L/100km plus my Fathers Ranger with the small 2.2L Diesel also gets 10L/100km so I can't complain.


(I know its late but) I looked into my owners manual for tire pressure. First half ("Normalbelastung bis 3 Personen) is for having two passengers or some stuff loaded up in the trunk so basically daily driving. Second half ("Volle Belastung über 3 Personen") is having 3 passengers and your trunk fully loaded so basically road trip/vacation. "vorn" means front and "hinten" means rear. AND its only in bar AND only when the tires are cold. It only lists the stock tire size, stock WINTER tire size and the spare tire. We can drive different sizes but they need to be either greenlit by Ford or the tire manufacturer has to give you the paperwork for MOT (TÜV).

81879



I have looked around about the 6-Speed fitting but haven't found anything. Seems like no one tried. But I think it won't be a big problem fitting it to the engine since the 5-Speed MTX-75 which is stock on the V6 Cougar was also used on the Mondeo ST220, which had the 3.0L in it, in the first few years and works on the 3.0L blocks and as far as I know they didn't change anything when swapping to the 6-Speed so it should all be the same with getting it to the engine but I think the drive shafts could be a problem.
 

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Two days of use, my first impressions:

1º With all the suspension renewal that I have done, the car goes like a train, it is very flat in the curves, it does not wobble, I can make a complete turn to a round (roundabout) with the car practically flat and that makes all the I work on the grip for the tires, it is normal to hear them complaining in the curves, I have mounted very bad and old tires that do not convey confidence to me.
I think that the 205/55/16 that I am riding is visually and dynamically narrow but of course the options are to mount a Michelin Pilot of that size that are very well priced and give very good grip or to test with wider rims and sizes .. .

2º Because of this above and because the direction is not well aligned, I notice the direction very nervous, but precise, if it transmits the feeling of the road to me? I do not know, you want to lower the pressure of the tires a bit, I still do not know, what if it generates a feeling of driving at a higher speed than driving, on the mountain road that takes me to work, this The road is very slow and with many curves, ups and downs, I have the feeling of going fast but when I see the speed it is almost the same as the one I use with my daily car.
I went from 225/-/17 to 205/-/16 and the narrower tires felt noticeably less grippy, even when brand new. The narrower tires might have some advantage in snow but that's probably not a concern for you so yes, a wider tire would perform better.

More important than getting a wider tire though is getting an adequate tire and an alignment. If saving for wheels is going to take much longer than saving for tires, just get the tires and worry about wheels later. Nothing else on your suspension is more important than the tires.

4º I cannot know at what RPM I go with my ear, in other cars I know how the sound of the engine is proportional to the RPM, in this car at low the engine does not sound at all at medium speed "roars" and at medium high it does almost same noise (I have not exceeded 5500 and I have bad IMRC) I suppose that above 5500 rpm it will make a higher noise, one of my children wants me to change the exhaust silencer and remove the PRE CAT from the exhaust manifold ( that with 216,000km they only have to brake the gases) to hear the engine well.
Maybe he is right but that will wait until he can lift the car well in the future.
Gutting the pre-cats is a great idea. If I ever buy another one of these cars, that will be one of the first things I do. Instant improvement in power, sound, and gas mileage with almost no cost.

5º Today I have seen when I get to work that I have a very hard radiator hose and I think the fault is shown, everything seems that the explosion chamber and the coolant circuit are communicated?
Are you saying you have a head gasket leak? That would be something to address right away. The good news is that it will be a good opportunity to install those SVT cams!

6º In the ITV they told me that the gas test that they did at 2500 rpm gave 1 that is the result of a perfect mixture of air and gasoline, even so it is giving me a consumption of 8.4L / 100km in an economical driving when going To work with 20% city 80% Mountain road, maybe it affects that I do not know what RPM range is better to take it on these roads. I do not know if it would consume me less to circulate in a lower gear in the slow sections.
With my other car, a citroen C elysee, with a 3-cylinder engine, 1.2L atmospheric 82cv, gasoline, variable intake and exhaust and 1055kg on this route makes me a consumption of 5L / 100 km
You already know you have a bad IMRC, probably a leaking IACV, and maybe a leaking head gasket so mileage numbers probably don't mean much right now. You should be close to 8 when everything is running right.
There's lots of information on the internet for improving mileage, but it all starts with making the car run right. As for gear choices; RPM is the proverbial elephant in the room when it comes to mileage. Lower RPM = better mileage but you need to balance that with retaining the torque you need for conditions.

10º There are versions of the Mondeo-Contour that have a 6-speed gearbox, does anyone know if it is adaptable?
Theoretically possible but six speeds don't really offer any performance benefit so it's probably not worth the trouble unless you will be putting on a lot of miles at high speed.
https://www.fordcontour.org/topic/12852-6-speed-units/
The real trouble will be in converting the front suspension to fit the new drive train. Our axles dont fit that transmission, I don't think the Mondeo axles fit our bearings, and I don't think the MK3 Mondeo bearings fit our knuckles. We also don't know if the different transmission would fit in our subframe, or if it would interfere with the steering rack or anything else down there.
Could be wrong though 🤷‍♂️
 

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As far as the 6-speed transaxle -

I believe they still register the same RPMs in top gear on the highway (about 3000 RPMs at 70 MPH), so the only change is that it makes you shift more times to get there.

Usually more gears are added when the engine has a peaky power band, so you can more easily keep the engine at an optimal RPM level. The 2.5 has a rather broad torque curve, and doesn't need the extra gears for performance, so it's not really worth the trouble to make one fit if you ask me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
3rd day of use:

If you are right, the 6-speed gearbox is a lot of work for something that does not provide much advantage.

If Marcus feels too long the rev range.

I think that when I can work on the exhaust line to hear the car well and know what RPM it is at.

I have the feeling that in low I drive a very quiet car and at mid-range it growls equal to 3000 than at 5000 rpm and since it has strength in any gear and RPM I don't know in which gear I'm going or at what revs I'm going I have to look at the clock on the dashboard...

And according to the manual, I have to lower the pressure a little, I put 2.4 and 2.6 on it, but I feel it very hard, especially in the back with those long springs, lowering a little pressure I will feel the road more and a little sway that seems to go on rails the curves.

Biggest or best tire is going to lag, snow what's that? some snow would be needed these days ...



The steering alignment will wait

The IACV is surely wrong because when I turned on the air conditioning it stopped me at city traffic lights, the RPM dropped a lot

The IACV is not going to wait because Moosing seems to be alive and it does it when it is most embarrassing and it is not expensive either.

Today the coolant was darker, it has barely done 200km, it has gone from being the pink-red G12 to strawberry-cherry red

This has hurt me, but yes, sometimes the truth does not blind us, when I bought the car I saw the tensioner of the water pump pulley was broken and held by a screw and a plate. The normal thing is that when this broke the pump it stopped rotating and the engine got hotter than normal and when I saw that the thermostatic valve had broken it is usually to hide the failure, but there is nothing like wishing that something was not like it you see...

Since I have moved from the city to where I am now, I can't work on the car (if I know, there are people who do it on the street fast and well, but I don't have that super power)

So for many months I will be building a garage-metal shed, on the land of a relative, to have a lot of space and to be able to lift the car and repair the engine.

But I wonder, if while I'm not interested in saving and buying another cougar, let's see if this one doesn't have a bad head gasket and then exchange the best parts ...

I forget, it is difficult for me to put the first gear, it is as if it were a little to the right, is it normal?

Thanks again everyone for your responses ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Hello again

I am taking advantage of these last days driving the car before wintering it.

No, the first gear of the change is not to the right, it is that you have to step on the clutch pedal a little and release it to be able to put it in.

Thanks to the RaceChrono mobile application I have created a 3.8km circuit with the best corners on the way to work.

I am measuring my minimum cornering speed on that course. Because the sensations are not correct, having the sensation of going faster is not going faster in two different cars.

And I am already understanding the differences between my two very different cars, which force me to drive in two very different ways.

In the slow curves 20-45km / h, the Citroen is superior or equal, I suppose it is because of the 300kg difference in weight and because of the inadequate tires of the Cougar.
But although the Cougar for its width and center of gravity has good stability, its hard suspension does not indicate or help the grip of the tire.
On this route I cannot get off the road, there is no “shoulder” and there are mountains or ravines as well as stone or metal barriers on both sides of the narrow road.
This is why I can't force the line without knowing his answer, I don't know the car either, but I do hear the tires “screeching” due to their slippage when cornering.

Adapting to all this I am driving in a different way and I get better results.

In the Citroen I enter the curve at medium revs, without braking at the right speed that the car shows me due to the inclination of the damping, which I know from several years taking the same curves, I measure the lateral acceleration with the inclination and to avoid this Inclination I trace an impeccable curve and driving the steering wheel very smoothly without making abrupt corrections.

In the Cougar using this technique, it is like going blind, it does not tell me if it will pass or if it will skid in the curve and because of its hard suspension it seems to me to go faster than in reality.
And since I am not afraid of losing speed because the car allows me to accelerate well, first I enter medium or high engine revolutions, in second gear, better than in third gear,
I brake right into the corner smoothly and accelerate from the middle of the curve or earlier to gain traction, but very smoothly, (as I miss a limited slip differential and better tires at the time).

In the curves of more than 50km / h, the cougar is superior, the lateral acceleration affects less and the curve can be traced with more comfort

In curves of more than 90km / h, it is a very comfortable pleasure

In curves of more than 120km / h, I do not know, how it is criminalized to go to more than look for an occasion very carefully and all because of the people who have a great car who believe they can do whatever they want and go at the speed you want where you can and where you cannot, where it is safe and where it is a risk for you and other drivers.

But I'm having a great time, I enjoy driving the car these days, I like to drive and I like the way the car is driven.
So although I still have a lot of work to do on the car in the future I have realized what is always said "it is important to fit good tires"

And there is the question of the day: What is the maximum size of tires that you have put on the car without rubbing? Width? Height? ET offset?
 

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Don't use engine braking when entering a turn on a FWD car. That can result in spinning out. Use the brakes if you must because they will provide more balanced response, but in a perfect world you would be traveling a constant speed through the turn. .
Remember your tires have a finite amount of grip, no matter what your asking them to do. Accelerating or decelerating apply force on the tires in the forward or rear direction, while turning applies force on the tires in a sideways direction.
When you accelerate or decelerate while turning at the same time you're minimizing the amount of grip available to do either one by splitting that demand.
Read about the "Traction circle"
 

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And there is the question of the day: What is the maximum size of tires that you have put on the car without rubbing? Width? Height? ET offset?
I ended up with probably the tightest fit imaginable with my latest set of race tires/wheels. Wheels are Rota Titan, 17x8, et40. Tires are Bridgestone RE-71R in 245/45R-17 (tread width 8.2").

Inside edge of the tire is too close to the strut to fit my finger between them; outside edge is nearly flush with the inside of the arch. I added a 5mm spacer on the front wheels to get a tiny bit more clearance on the strut, although it wasn't necessary. 235 tires would be a much more comfortable fit in the fender wells, but I was going for max contact patch for track use.

Wider tires would rub the arch on compression, unless you pull the arches a bit (fronts will pull very easily, but the rears are VERY hard to bend).

The Fiesta ST community is an excellent source for wheels. They usually use slimmer tires than we do to avoid rub, but we have a little more room under the fenders than the Fiesta.
 

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I think I determined that my limits for my 16" SVT wheels were 205/60/16 and for my 17" Cougar wheels were 215/50/17 or 225/45/17.
Offset of your wheels, what brand of struts you have, and the length of your springs all impact available clearance though so your results may vary.
The best you can do is measure the clearance you have right now to your fenders and spring perches and go from there.
Width depends on your wheel width.
81888


If I'm not mistaken, european car tires aren't allowed to extend outside of the fender? If that's true then your probably going to be limited to a 7" or maybe 7 1/2" wheel unless you extend the fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Don't use engine braking when entering a turn on a FWD car. That can result in spinning out. Use the brakes if you must because they will provide more balanced response, but in a perfect world you would be traveling a constant speed through the turn. .
Remember your tires have a finite amount of grip, no matter what your asking them to do. Accelerating or decelerating apply force on the tires in the forward or rear direction, while turning applies force on the tires in a sideways direction.
When you accelerate or decelerate while turning at the same time you're minimizing the amount of grip available to do either one by splitting that demand.
Read about the "Traction circle"
Hello, if I totally agree with you, that video of a Ford Mustang skidding I think that for that to happen there must be several physical circumstances:
1st You have to have a very powerful, rear-wheel drive car.
2º You have to be able to buy a mustang
3º You have to like to be silly so that they look at you
4th You do not have to love your car very much to treat it like that, if I had a mustang I would pamper it like a baby.

I'm seriously about to quit that job and I'm really looking forward to it.
But that mountain road road has 32km one way and 32 km back and in 15 years I think it has been 160,000km on that road, especially with 3 cars:
Ford Focus mk1, 1.8 TDDI 90cv diesel, 1250kg, consumption (5-6 L / 100km) (+ - 30,000km)
Renault Megane mk2, 1.5 Tdi, 85cv diesel, 1350kg, (consumption 3.9-4.2L / 100km) (+ - 100000km)
Citroen C Elysee 1.2 82cv gasoline, 1050kg, consumption 4.9-5.4 L / 100km) (+ -30.000km)

And I have developed a way of driving so as not to use brakes, wheels or clutch and use very little fuel:

1º Accelerate quickly but smoothly to the maximum speed of the road and put a high gear.
2nd Release your foot from the accelerator before reaching the curve so that before entering it the car has the correct speed to enter that curve.
3rd what is the correct speed? Well, a fast one so as not to lose speed but safe and this depends on each car.
4th Reduce gear (of the gearbox) and keep the accelerator so as not to brake with the engine but thus start the curve in the proper gear and speed with the accelerator pedal at constant speed.
5th Halfway through the curve, accelerate very smoothly to help the steering eliminate suspension sway without disturbing the wheels.
6th In the descents accelerate a little initially and then release the accelerator in high gears or put neutral if the descent is safe.
7º Before starting a climb, gain a little more speed and lose speed as you go up, lifting or holding the accelerator, avoiding stepping on it to go up faster, of course if the slope is very steep it is important to go in the right gear, at least Power has the car you drive and more if it is a 3-cylinder that has a lot of trouble climbing hills, the more difficult it is, turbo engines climb the hills very very well ...

Many days I go to work without having to touch the brake all the way and on that road the best car is the lightest one with a normal travel and medium hardness but with good stabilizer bars and good tires.

Don't think I'm a speed freak on my way to work hahaha
It all started when the Cougar gave me the impression that I entered the curves much faster and it was not like that I entered the curves at "the same minimum speed when cornering" but with much less safety, tranquility and comfort than in my Citroen in which entered the same curves very calm and applying the economic driving that I explained before.
I'm thinking of making a video ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
I ended up with probably the tightest fit imaginable with my latest set of race tires/wheels. Wheels are Rota Titan, 17x8, et40. Tires are Bridgestone RE-71R in 245/45R-17 (tread width 8.2").

Inside edge of the tire is too close to the strut to fit my finger between them; outside edge is nearly flush with the inside of the arch. I added a 5mm spacer on the front wheels to get a tiny bit more clearance on the strut, although it wasn't necessary. 235 tires would be a much more comfortable fit in the fender wells, but I was going for max contact patch for track use.

Wider tires would rub the arch on compression, unless you pull the arches a bit (fronts will pull very easily, but the rears are VERY hard to bend).

The Fiesta ST community is an excellent source for wheels. They usually use slimmer tires than we do to avoid rub, but we have a little more room under the fenders than the Fiesta.
Some very nice alloy wheels I will investigate in those forums. If I have not misunderstood you, did you manage to put 245/45/17 Et40-5 = 35mm in it? and the front ones did not rub when I turned the steering wheel fully?
That's a very good measure for a racing cougar ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
I think I determined that my limits for my 16" SVT wheels were 205/60/16 and for my 17" Cougar wheels were 215/50/17 or 225/45/17.
Offset of your wheels, what brand of struts you have, and the length of your springs all impact available clearance though so your results may vary.
The best you can do is measure the clearance you have right now to your fenders and spring perches and go from there.
Width depends on your wheel width.
View attachment 81888

If I'm not mistaken, european car tires aren't allowed to extend outside of the fender? If that's true then your probably going to be limited to a 7" or maybe 7 1/2" wheel unless you extend the fenders.
If nothing can be modified in Spain, they almost threw me back at the ITV because the roof of the cougar was 5mm higher, nor make holes, nor remove things, nor change heights or measurements and the wheels neither go out nor be more than 3% different in size so many people have two sets of wheels, the legal and the cool.
I would love to have an air vent in the hood above the engine that does not harm or help the aerodynamics and that helps to cool down but that would mean making a fiber hood and having a specialized workshop do a legalized engineering project that later passes an ITV special, that is, a lot of time and money ...

Here in Spain and I suppose that in Europe the cheapest tires are the measures that are most mounted on cars and those are 185/65/15, 195/55/16, 205/55/16 and 225/45/17 although from As the "SUVs" are expanding, economic measures are appearing on 18,19,20, .. inch wheels but I don't even think about them ...

As the rim of the cougar that rides here, I only see one model and it is 16 inches x 6.5 inches I do not find 215/50/16 tires like the originals and I do not know if that tire would be a danger with a 225.
The logical thing is to go to 17 inches and put a 225/45/17 good like the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 that can be bought in that measure for less than € 100

But that will wait ...
First I want to change the idle valve
Second Repair IMRC
Third find space to open the motor (this is a lot of but interesting work)
Fourth improve the exhaust line
Fifth align direction
Sixth tire change
Seventh Paint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Well the question of the day:
I have broken the button for the window regulator on the right window, but the one on the left side, the one on the right side works well.
That is why I know that it is the button and not the lifting mechanism.
I have seen that the one on the Focus / transit is similar but it is not the same connector, can it be opened and repaired or adapted from the other model by changing the connector?
Or I better go to the scrapyard

Thanks, as always
 

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Some very nice alloy wheels I will investigate in those forums. If I have not misunderstood you, did you manage to put 245/45/17 Et40-5 = 35mm in it? and the front ones did not rub when I turned the steering wheel fully?
That's a very good measure for a racing cougar ...
All correct; no rub. The -5 is not necessary; I competed in 2 events without them with no problems, but I added them in for just a little more confidence.

If I were driving on public streets daily, I would definitely step down to a 235 width tire for less concern for clearance. But I drive maybe 1000 miles a year at best, so I'm OK with the full width.
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
All correct; no rub. The -5 is not necessary; I competed in 2 events without them with no problems, but I added them in for just a little more confidence.

If I were driving on public streets daily, I would definitely step down to a 235 width tire for less concern for clearance. But I drive maybe 1000 miles a year at best, so I'm OK with the full width.
[/CITA]
Well to my surprise I am seeing that measure 235/45/17 is economical:
DUNLOP SPORT MAXX RT 2, CONTINENTAL PREMIUMCONTACT 6, they are over € 100 each and are 3cm per wheel more than what I am riding now ...
It is 3.54% more, so they would not be legal but for the second set of wheels they would be very good ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 · (Edited)
Hello, this is the video, it could have been accelerated more on the straights but that is not the intention.
In the video you can see:
1st The car is very stable in curves, fast and slow, the incline is minimal.
2º The tires screech in the slow curves.
Could be improved:
1º When I know the car better.
2º Correctly aligning the direction
3º Less hardened and wider tires
4th front differential
5th Less weight

 

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Alignment problems can cause a LOT of tire squeal in corners, and has a HUGE affect on cornering grip. I would prioritize alignment.

Fun road to drive on every day!
 
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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
You're right, when I fix the head gasket problem I will put new tires on it and align them correctly.
Those roads in other places are replaced by highways but here the money does not come for it, the asphalt is kept in good condition but they do not widen it and there are many cyclists on it so you have to be careful and overtake cars on them is a lost art.

But those roads ask to have a car that responds to enjoy them, they are two sides of the same coin and I really like driving on them, the bad thing is when you get to work ...
 
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