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Discussion Starter #282
Okay, true.

bad news. the 99-00 FRONT manifold fits great on an 01 car.but the rear one is slightly different, accounting for the alternator change from one year to the other, I think... because the 99-00 rear manifold hits the alternator :( I'm pretty sure that's why she won't fit, right now. I'm bummed out.

it's getting there ,though. shift cables changed, grounds re-done..now there's just this to figure out.
 

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deleted due to poor reading comprehension
 

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Okay, true.

bad news. the 99-00 FRONT manifold fits great on an 01 car.but the rear one is slightly different, accounting for the alternator change from one year to the other, I think... because the 99-00 rear manifold hits the alternator :( I'm pretty sure that's why she won't fit, right now. I'm bummed out.

it's getting there ,though. shift cables changed, grounds re-done..now there's just this to figure out.


I looked back a bit but I'm sure I still missed some things - you are trying to put a rear 99/00 exhaust manifold on an 01/02 it sounds like? I'm not sure about the alternator being different but I'll chime in that the EGR will be different as well. You need one from a 99/00. It's in a slightly different spot on the 01/02 exhaust manifold so the bends are a little different.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Yes. MMC757 was so kind to send me a good set of manifolds he had spare so I could replace my cracked up ones. EGR is 'deleted' (...) so it's no issue, but the manifold's port nearest the alternator is shaped differently, sticks out, and smacks the alternator.

I wish we had more engine bay space. these hug the block like crazy, and now the alternator's in the way of an exhaust port. weird!

the flange of manifold I had on there is seperated, it looks like it was some sort of press fit; but I've got about 3/16'' of pipe sticking out for the flange to grip onto, now. if I had a welder handy, this wouldn't be so much of an issue, but here we are. I'll keep working the problem and come up with something. I'm wondering if 'high heat' JB weld (550F) would do the job. probably not.
 

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the flange of manifold I had on there is seperated, it looks like it was some sort of press fit; but I've got about 3/16'' of pipe sticking out for the flange to grip onto, now. if I had a welder handy, this wouldn't be so much of an issue, but here we are. I'll keep working the problem and come up with something. I'm wondering if 'high heat' JB weld (550F) would do the job. probably not.
I'm not understanding this paragraph. Can you get a legible photo? Can you remove a little metal with a grinder to make it fit?
 

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Discussion Starter #287 (Edited)
Happily. this new forum layout makes it even easier than before, too.

your Good manifold :
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my SNAFU manifold (please note the dried up exhaust cement that did nothing) :
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I wasn't able to find the dead flange. it's in the recycling bin somewhere, and I sure looked, but the studs were dead anyway. I'll cut one off my old front manifold, I think.
anyway, the short circular lip on the manifold is 2.087 inch OD.

I thought about heating some exhaust tube I have here to fit it over, then let it cool down, but i'm not sure if it would work. it would need a lot of heat, and sanding of both the inside of the tube (it's at 2.045 now) and of the manifold's lip. and then, there's the matter of joining it to the Y-pipe again.

I also thought about dimpling the manifold lip and just smacking the flange on, and calling it good, but.. the goal was to get RID of leaks (sob)... I doubt it would seal nicely.

I also have some high-heat (500F) JB-weld, and considering there's no cat material in this, and that it's a foot away from the engine, it might not be too hot, but I have severe doubts about that too.

if I had 1000$ to blow I'd grab headers, if I had 500$ to blow I'd grab some bends and TIG something up. I do have a 100$, 110v stick welder, and I might see if I'll blow my 15 amp circuit tacking on the flange so it doesn't go anywhere. but that feels just as dumb.

Edit : I'll start by getting out of my pyjamas andproperly capping that EGR, lopping the bolts off the pre-cat body, and wire-brushing the flange area.
 

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Where is the interference point at? Is it maybe a matter of taking the studs out of the head so it can slide in without having to go over them? Or taking the alternator out of the way first then putting it back in after?

BTW, you dont need to spend $1000 for headers. Probably closer to $300 USD for just uncoated headers straight from MSDS.
 

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Discussion Starter #289
The manifold primary tube physically attempts to occupy the same space as the alternator. the flanges are fine, and everything else is Okay because you've got tons of room for the other two ports. but the alternator is in the way of the last one's tube. I'm bummed. am I incorrect in my affirmation that it won't fit? I tried and tried, so I'm like 90% sure. the only studs were on the port closest to the driver's side, and they didn't limit my attempts at situating the manifold at the alternator end.
 

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Thats very surprising, I'm sorry we didnt see this problem coming. I would not have expected the precats to change.
Maybe find a local welder on craigslist that can take the two manifolds and turn them into one?
 

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Discussion Starter #291
some progress. I cut off the leaky 3-bolt flange for the flex joint, and slammed a 2.5'' coupler in there; threw on a walker flex joint and a reducer after that. it might need a bit of sealant, it might not. it's a pretty damn good fit.

On the left side of the picture, new flange. I couldn't manage to get the old studs out of the OEM flange, so a new one (walker 31897) went on. had to hammer the pipe bevel in to fit it, then hammer it back into shape. the tube is a little banged up (heheh) and needs to be cleaned up so I can ensure it'll seal well.

on the right side of the picture, there's a three inch rusty pipe bit? yeah - had no access to a welder (and I'm so sick of that) so how to get a new O2 bung? simple : you don't .you fish the (empty and FUBAR) main cat out of the recycling bin, cut the bung section out, and clean up the cuts so you get something approximating a straight tube to clamp onto.
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Above : my fixed up 2001 rear manifold. problem : the flange to the Y-pipe was busted off. solution : I lopped off the flange of my dead front manifold (which is already replaced) and ground down the weld until I could chisel out the original pipe stub stuck in there. Bam, replacement flange ready. IWire wheeled the manifold's end, and smacked it's mating surface open a little bit; then filed down the manifold's seating surface so it's be as straight as possible. I dimpled the inside surface of the flange with a sharpened punch and hammer, and then tapped the flange on. Lousy press fit, but it holds, and with the Y-pipe supported to the oil pan right next to it, it'll do well enough. it's probably getting some sealant too.

Final problems : I'm missing a 2'' exhaust clamp, need some JB Weld Extreme heat, and need to find the nut I had set aside for the EGR tubing. that lousy copper pipe cap was a dumb idea.

in a nutshell : today was backyard hackery, but i'm getting pretty good at backyard hackery. why did I do all this? because the front manifold's center port was cracked off and leaking, the rear manifold Y-pipe flange was leaking badly, both 3-bolt flanges (before and after the flex pipe) were leaking, and the 2-bolt flange after the cat (to the resonator) was leaking. and I'm sick of the driveability issues because of it.

there's some rust in the fuel tank (I think) and I'm concerned over sensors / connections too.we'll see if this fixes it. if not, more work.
 

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Discussion Starter #292
The exhaust was ready to go in yesterday, it was a beauuuuutiful day out, and it was the only thing left to do to the car before it was running again and back to daily status.

Where's the fun in that, right? so I started off another little project instead :
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it's a 65mm body off an Explorer 4.6. I had to rob the bracket off our OEM throttle body, and drill the bushing a little larger. the 65mm shaft then fits in. after that - you have to stop one from rotating on the other; how? with no welder on hand, my answer was to drill it, pin it, and then epoxy the end. we'll see how it lasts. the goddamn return spring was a nightmare; I had to cut up and entirely re-shape one of the two springs to finally make it work. now it's time to port the IM and trim the gasket. but I'll have to fill in the EGR groove there; the explorer body doesn't completely fit over it, so it won't seal if I don't fill it. Oh well - the EGR is already blocked off at the other end and at the manifold, so it's not going to make anything any worse.
 

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Fiberglass resin works for filling that groove and easily sanding it smooth afterwards.
 

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The progressive dual linkage on the manual throttle body is HOT GARBAGE. Back when I had my Laser Red 99, I HATED IT SO MUCH. If I had been keeping it, I would have swapped in an automatic TB just to get the direct linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #295 (Edited)
progress.

I didn't trust the new torsional spring I'd made, so I made a bracket out of 1/8'' steel that mounts off the two top bolts of the throttle body, bends over the top of it, and has an arm that reaches out to directly in front of the butterfly lever.. thing, and added a tension spring there. it looks pretty good, and works well. the pedal feels good.

because the location of the butterfly shaft has changed, the cables are now too short. cruise AND throttle. I chopped the cable bracket a little,and it's better, but I don't quite have WOT yet. on top of it,I lost the damn clip that holds the throttle cable end in place on the butterfly shaft. the snorkel from the MAF to the throttle body didn't fit since the new TB is much larger, so I had to cut and splice with a new one - it's sealed, but looks awful.

Behold :Mediocrity, everywhere.
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it starts, and runs like absolute dogshit. I did get to teach my buddy what backfires sound like, at least. the front manifold-to-Y-pipe flange leaks badly and so does the rear one. there's also a leak near the new flex joint, but i can't tell where. there's gotta be five clamps in 8 inches of pipe, and any one of them could be the culprit. I'm hoping the leaks are why the thing runs terrible, but I'm not convinced. maybe I screwed something else up, I'm not sure. I suspect I have multiple vacuum / metered air leaks. the TB flange could be sanded better. the elbow for the vacuum tree needs RTV. I need to make sure the throttle butterfly is fully closed.

so I need to fix the exhaust, find any vacuum leaks and fix them, and see about WOT. Overall, I've got something, here. but it needs more refinement (and another hundred bucks) before it'll work.
 

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Uff-da. You need to focus on getting it running right in the first place before introducing new problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #298
what the hell - I deleted the power steering. pump, reservoir, cooler and all. if anyone wants the reservoir or the pump, y'all can have them for the cost of shipping, no problem. the stretch belt gets here tomorrow, and I wasn't going to have power steering anyway because of it - so why not? it cleaned up the engine bay some.

all of the A/C lines and components are out too, even the condenser. all that's left is the compressor, but the upper mounting bolt stripped on me and is still giving me trouble; it's hard to cut apart where it is, so I'm still working on that. I've got a catalytic converter on the way to replace the old one the original owner gutted. I replaced the passenger side motor mount, too.

both horns were dead. one was banged up, the other was missing a connector; I have two spare horns off a Lincoln LS that are going on. I yoinked a throttle body off an F150 that will be getting it's shaft welded to our throttle arm, and I'll fab up a new throttle cable bracket to make it work - there are no cougars local to me to rob a TB from and that 65mm TB sounds fun; It just needs another iteration. the 2.5'' intake tube I made is also a little small now considering there'll be a 65mm body, so I'd like to make something new there. it would give me a chance to clean up the IACV and head breather hoses , too. lastly, i need new tires, and want to relocate the battery.

After all that, I'll move on to the probe for a bit; after cleaning up the probe, it'll either be paint & body on the cougar or a full 3L with a Moates Quarterhorse and mor underhood work. I'm not sure; it'll depend on how well my 2.5 runs after all this.
 

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Discussion Starter #299
So school is finally done and the military is done with me until probably july. I've had some time to work on this.

Horns are in, I nabbed a connector of a Ford Fusion and was on my way. A/C is completely out. Power steering is completely out. new tires got here (thanks for the advice, lads!) and I mounted and balanced them on my 17x7s yesterday. the car looks amazing with them in the summer. i'm glad I have good tires again. I relocated the battery and added a boosting post out front and a new engine ground out of 4 gauge. the Catalytic converter is here too, ready to go in most likely tomorrow while I install the rest of the exhaust too. that Dayco ELA (stretch) belt fits awesome, I think it'll work. if memory serves it's a Dayco E040361. (E for stretch, 04 for 4 ribs, 0361 for 36.1 inches long). I'll confirm whether or not it works once the car is done, but it went on good and tight so I'm not too worried.

left :

loop the steering rack lines or close them up to prevent dirt ingress
install the exhaust
change the driver's front brake line (I don't have fluid on hand.. grr)
grab a new throttle cable off something in the junkyard and adapt/install that
sand down the intake manifold flange better than I last did
adapt and install this 02 F150 throttle body
build a new throttle cable bracket
put it down, tighten down the wheels, test the horn, test all the lights, see if it starts, see if it runs, see if it'll drive, party

eyes on saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter #300 (Edited)
Please be advised : the motherfuckers that designed this thing are goddamn sadists.

the front left brake line is a 3/16'' bubble flare line.standard M10 fitting on the caliper end, M12 FITTING ON THE BRAKE MASTER SIDE. you'll need either custom lines or an adapter to make a store-bought line work. Why? because **** it, they're not gonna work on it - who cares, right? a 20 inch line is juuuuuuuuuust long enough to do it - get 24'' if you can. EDELMANN #267000 adapts an M10 over to an M12 - try a hydraulics or industrial supply shop local to you.

the rear brake lines also have M12 fittings at the caliper end, so at least those are consistent end to end.

****, sometimes this car makes me so angry. there's so much **** that makes no goddamn sense. if this was a Toyota Corolla, Yaris, Echo or whatever, none of this **** would crop up - everything would be simple,well made, and thoughtfully done. the starter on a 1ZZ engine is TWO bolts. you don't even need to jack up the car. they're super easy to access, waiting for you. this ford is some bullshit. thank christ it looks good, has decent power, drives fantastic, and turns good. I swear to god,I won't be satisfied with this old hunk of junk until every last OEM engineering decision is ****ing gone. un-****ing believable.

/rant
 
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