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Discussion Starter #261
that forsaken bolt is finally out. I did so much pounding, drilling and more that I had to buff the face of the knuckle with an angle grinder, or the bolt would have sat all sorts of wrong. somehow, I saved the threads.

strut assembly, reinstalling the assembly, brakes and wheel back on, and then *one of the four* struts are done... :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #263 (Edited)
Number two didn't cooperate either. Out came the drill aaaaand....


****.

I think I'm done. at this point, I expect the other two to give me the same headaches - I think I'm headed to the junkyard tomorrow to rob the three spindles off the junkyard cougar. if I look at it in $ per hour, I think it's justifiable. grr. excited to get this thing on the road again, already. my old probe wants work too.
 

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Discussion Starter #264 (Edited)
some progress. the passenger side is all done. the weather sucks. I finished off passenger front in -20C weather last night. Tried to flip it around in the driveway to get to the other side, but the damn thing starts, then immediately dies. (Point of pride : near 60 days in the cold, no driving, nothing ,and it cranks right up. nice.) I'm not too sure what to look at. eventually, it'll start, idle awfully, eventually rev on heavy pedal application (to keep it from dying), and just stall without pedal input or steering effort. the fuel pump is making some odd noises. it whirrs, but it feels like there's no pressure there. it dies, and you can hear the pump whirring as if the lines weren't pressurized. the first time I cycled the key a few times, the pump took forever to build pressure. after that, it wasn't so bad, but it still concerns me.

grr.
 

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How much total run time did you give it? If you lost fuel out of the lines while it was parked you may have an air-in-the-lines problem. If its a tiny leak, you might be okay once all the air is purged. If its a larger leak, you should be able to find it easily.
If not a fuel leak, my next guess would be the IACV or a metered air leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #266 (Edited)
Yep, Great guess, you're completely right. turns out 1 AM, cold, tired me is a complete moron and forgot I cannibalized IAC hose and clamps from the car to fix the probe right before christmas. thanks for your help.

Oops.

edit : started up like a goddamn kitten with two lowered, sporty legs, one broken leg, and a standard leg. thing purrs great. I miss this car. I can't wait to get it done and get back on the road. it's got the best tires in the fleet right now, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #267 (Edited)
number three is done, driver's side front. that was the one that had originally broken. it's really weird. there's about 1/8'' of thread left on the top of the strut, and it broke the stud itself clean off. I'm not sure why, and it concerns me. I don't want to have to figure out a way to replace a Koni strut that's no longer if this thing does it too.

other concerning thing : the big rubber washers kind of stick out by a good 3/32nths of an inch from the top of the strut. they're tightened and torqued to the value in the Haynes manual (34 for the retaining nut). the Konis came with instructions that stated 54 or so for the actual spring-retaining, top-plate-mounting nuts. both are on spec. maybe the nuts + the lockwasher that came supplied is just squishing everything too close? I have no idea.

the previous arrangement was no assembly nut, just two nuts on top of the tower, meaning you couldn't pull the strut as an assembly - the second you took off that nut, boom, everything is loose and the spring tries to kill you (ask me how I know and how I found out). that sat flush, but that's wrong, and the nuts were waaaaaaaay overtight (80 ish foot pounds). so i'm stumped. I'll do some reading here and on CEG and see If I can dig something up.

Edit : Damn. Guess who gets to tear down both front struts again. I need thinner nuts. I'll see about grabbing some skinny locknuts and some standard nylon locknuts from a local guy soon. that's why there's a gap. :( the nuts that came with the Konis seem too tall, simple as that. Oh well. I'm really not looking forward to tearing them apart all over again, though.
Edit to my edit : Hey wait, I don't need to take 'em apart - with the weight on the car, you can actually just yank those bolts off from underhood and you're good! Yahoo!


my feet are cold, and my phone is out of battery (cold) so I'm inside for a bit, but strut #4 (rear driver's) is coming out and back in tonight. I miss this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #268 (Edited)
Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

The man who routed this brake line never replaced a strut on these. I'm sure of it. God's sake, it's rubbing on like three points of the car.

Edit : guess what just sprung a leak? You get one chance. There's no prize.



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Seems like a lot of us have reached the end of life for the brake lines...Add that to the list of items to check closely when buying any future Cougars!
 

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Discussion Starter #270 (Edited)
Agreed. This thing has already had the rear ones replaced , there's a union halfway down the line (which will be lovely to loosen im sure.) I'd love to grab a stainless kit.. Once the damn sucker weather comes up.

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Discussion Starter #271
The yays : all four wheels are on the ground. fresh struts, strut mounts, and springs all around. everything is torqued, mostly ready to go. it's also now pretty damn low.

the nays : that brake line is now broken and needs replacement before I drive this thing, and the front strut mounts have that gap I need to fix.

Progress is progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #272 (Edited)
my luck is running low.

the rear valve.. fitting... thing right before the rear caliper hoses are one size bigger than what's on a standard pre-made line.

so I just cut off the rest of the broken up lines, only to, once again, *not* have this f*** on the road tonight. I gotta wait for parts stores to open, and find an adapter to go one size up, or something. I also need to find out what spec threads these are, god damn it.

this sucks. this just legit sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Done. The rear pressure reducing valves want an M10x1.0 fitting, bunble flare, 3/16" line. Edelmann 265000 will give you that on the male end and 3/8-24 inverted flare on the female end, which is what most parts stores carry pre-made. Summit racing was backordered, Rockauto had it under tools and universal parts.

The car rides like a new vehicle. Finally out of the probe - that thing needs a lot of love before its up to my standards.

The cougar overall now has new tie rod ends, ball joints, LCAs, struts, springs, top mounts, pads, rotors, calipers, flex lines, sway bar links, rear subframe, battery, water pump, intake gaskets, MAF, intake tract, clutch kit... I must be forgetting some stuff.

Needs body and paintwork, fuel system love, and a 3L now.

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Discussion Starter #277
the car's been refusing to start back up after shutting down hot. it's really, really f**** annoying. happened twi in the last two weeks. you let it cool off for an hour, and it purrs right back to life. I'm pulling and fixing exhaust (I counted four leaks before the main cat), thanks for parts donated by MMC757.

taking the rear manifold out, I noticed the VSS on the transmission has some slightly frayed/ bare wires where it goes into the sensor.

so... what are the symptoms of a failing VSS on an MTX V6 car?
 

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Try the ignition coil. They can fail hot but go back to operating when cool.
Does it buck and kick or suffer power loss while hot? Is the CEL blinking in and out? Those are other possible symptoms but don't necessarily have to be present.
 

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Discussion Starter #279
Thanks for the idea. coil is a denso unit, it's about a year old. no misfires that I can tell. on cold starts, it misfires. and it misses under power pretty often, but only for what feels like an instant. if the exhaust and cleaning up the grounds doesn't fix this, I'll go dig there next. how is the coil grounded, anyway?
 

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Theres a ground wire on one of the mounting bolts
 
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