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Discussion Starter #241
Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

I jusr slogged through eighteen (yes, eighteen) hours of work in a row to get the car out of the driveway. I needed it out by this morning because there's some guys coming to trim the hedge. In retrospect, a profoundly dumb reason, but whatever. I have seventy-five pictures of the process, which are currently on my IG, until about four hours from now. Ill post them up here too, but AFTER some very well deserved rest.


Long story short, the clutch pedal feels weightless for some reason so i cant start it yet (i bled it six hours ago and it was fine, wtf) , so I pushed it out (uphill... What a pain) the P-side tie rod end is wasted (i have a spare) and the top of the strut or the strut bolt are stripped. Oh, and radiator bracket bolts are broke, must fix. It's still pinned on coathangers.

But its out of the driveway and i have only cuts and scrapes. I am not satisfied but not disappointed. I have earned my screen name, let it be said.

Good night, NECO.





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Make sure the clutch hard line and flex line are seated and connected fully; I always have all kinds of trouble with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Thanks Andy, will check monday along with a few more things.
Make sure the clutch hard line and flex line are seated and connected fully; I always have all kinds of trouble with that.
Victory.



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Discussion Starter #245 (Edited)
Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

I GOT IT STARTED AND IDLING!!!! It smells so rich, it ain't even funny, and it leaks very badly at one of the flex joint flanges BUT the clutch is waaaay low (still soft but its right there and fine, so i think its just a new feel i need to get used to) and the motor mounts are redonkulously stiff, far stiffer than I wanted - but i used the wrong adhesive , so whatcha gonna do.

I took it down the street, discovered the shifter sucks, and you need both hands to get a gear in - then the main shifter cable popped off the shift lever, in the middle of a U-turn on my street. Oops.

It's loud, it smells, the shifter needs fixed, but god DAMN it I don't CARE, it runs! Yahoooooo!

reading up on the short shifter issue (very hard to engage gears, and apparently I assembled the cable end wrong, or something) and fixing tomorrow.

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Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

Congrats, man, way to stick with it. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #247 (Edited)
Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

Congrats, man, way to stick with it. Good luck!
Thanks, Linkman, I really appreciate that. I Didn't really learn this from someone, had no outside help on this project, and felt pretty crazy at times for doing it. but all in all, I had a good time. it's certainly good (and nice of you!) to be able to take an outside observer's yardstick and know that I did well, I think.

More good news today : I found out that the shifter issue was simply that I hadn't assembled the large shifter cable end properly; I took that back apart, reassembled it, re-inserted it, and it's smooth as silk. I gave it about 10-12 miles of city driving today, officially beginning the clutch break-in process. I'm just being very gentle with it for a few hundred miles, just in case. LUK doesn't seem to have any litterature about it, but I'd rather be cautious. I topped up the fluids, too.

The car feels Great, it's still learning how to run properly with the exhaust leak(s?) and gutted cats, so it has a lot of flat spots and moments where the power goes away, rough idle... etc, but it's just really fun to be back on the road after doing such a big job. The short shifter is terrific. thanks a whole lot, Lostoffspring. I was worried it might be janky or too short or something, but it's just fine, and you get used to it in no time. the filled motor mounts are hilarious. at idle, the thing feels like my friend's old '84 Camaro - all rumbly and shaky and full of bass tones. shakes the dash on some transcient RPMs at idle, too. I get a good laugh out of it - it's waaaaaay too stiff, but it's not like this is a concourse car. I'm having a lot of fun with it, and I don't need to worry about it too much, so I'm keeping it positive.

Of course, with an older (read : more beat up) car, and after such work, there are still issues I need to fix : I'd really like to relocate the battery to get it out of the engine bay, for one. more importantly, the Driver's side strut top nut just spins, no threads left at all. I'll need to replace both front struts, very soon. I'm being cautious about it and won't be driving it long distances until I figure out a fix there. Also, although there is no looseness to the steering at all, the passenger side tie rod end is also stripped on the stud - which means it's not torqued, so I definitely want to get that changed ASAP. I have a spare, and I'll be throwing it on the next time the car is under the knife. Lastly, the exhaust deal is just plain awful. I need MIL eliminators on the manifolds for one; it's a wonder I didn't break an 02 sensor gutting the cats! I only thought of that afterwards. second, a few of the flanges - come to think of it, EVERY single flange on the car is busted, except for the rear manifold-to-engine flanges which are Okay. all three Y-pipe connections have broken studs or are uneven to the point that even double gaskets didn't fix it, and so are the main cat flanges. the whole thing leaks, and the smell gets you pretty giddy after a few minutes of traffic. definitely needs fixing.

Right now, I have to consider my priorities, which are my engineering degree and my finances; my income situation is changing in the next few weeks, so I may need to pick up a second job in september if I want to fix these issues. I'm thinking KYBs and drop springs (since we can't get OEM stuff, hee-hee, shhhh) and some mufflers & bends from Summit racing. but.. not now. if they become safety issues, I'll fix them with stock parts first.

the whole job (exhaust, water pump and belt, clutch kit, sway bar bushings, D-side strut mount, control arms, filled motor mounts, short shifter, rear end links, A/C dryer, P/S Cooler) took me a good 30-40 hours, and I can honestly say I grew in mechanical experience, character, and perspective throughout. I had a lot of fun, and it took a lot of perseverance and I'd-rather-not-but-here-I-go muscles. I have to say, I can't really look at it with rosy eyes and naïveté, though. After diving in this deeply to the mechanics of the car, seeing the wear, the rust - and keeping my financial means in mind, I know that it's probably never going to be a showroom car again; it'll never be as silky smooth as B3NN3TT's red car, or what Foundracer will be. but i'm totally okay with it - showroom condition is out of my means anyway, time-wise, mechanics-wise, and especially working out of an uncovered driveway. I'm having a lot of fun with it, it drives fine, and that's what really matters. I'm keeping it positive, and in a certain sense, it's a little bit relieving to know that it doesn't need to be picture perfect.

I'd like to give a big thanks to everyone who gave advice, offered encouragement, or helped in other ways in the last few weeks. your comments have been invaluable and I took them all to heart. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to talk to some Joe across the continent, working on his old Ford. I'll ship another post in a few days when the tie rod end is done, but until then - see you guys soon!


 

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The value of just diving in without fear cant be understated. Our cars are very straightforward for the most part, and great for learning and building confidence. We all know the disappointment of diving deep and not coming back with the pearl, but at least now you can go back in with confidence next time and know exactly what youre going to be facing. - Also, No MIL eliminators required for your precats, thats a 99/00 thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #249
Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

Great news : I went ahead and fixed the tie rod end - and it didn't fight me at all. I had to cut the stud off because the nut wouldn't come off, but that may have been me not willing to be patient since I didn't have to be. after that (and maybe after all the heat this thick cutting disk pours into the stuff I cut), the tie rod end span right off the inner tie rod with no drama at all. gave it anti-seize, torqued the castle nut properly, and pinned it. no more worrying about that. I also just got back inside from fixing the strut's nut - I am very lucky, but the strut's threads are fine, and it is the nut's that stripped ( see pics). a new nut and some reassembly and all is better. I worked quick and torqued to the book (44 and 34 ft/lbs) before it would strip for real.

judging by the way the struts were (incorrectly) assembled, the doofus that changed them last time must have been either lazy or must not have had any spring compressors - it appears he did the change in-car, with the weight of the car holding the spring compressed for him while I cranked the nuts down to twice the recommended torque value on the bearing retainer nuts. Eww!

So the car is no longer sketchy - it only leaks exhaust and smells really rich.
 

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Glad you like the short shifter! That was one of my favorite mods to the car :)

My dads car had the energy suspension poly insert for the front roll resistor and 60A urethane filled rear resistor and it's perfect for the street. Just letting you know in case you feel like redoing it. Congrats on the car :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #251
That EGR aint going to work bud. Just delete it.
Guess who was right?

new gaskets and vac lines all over the UIM; deleting the EGR. did not seal at all, and I'm chasing a vacuum leak / near-stall idle. hopefully new gaskets and all that jazz fixes it. I instantly broke the DPFE sensor's nipples trying to yank it off. not sure how i'll fix the 'REF' (downstream) side yet to fit a vac line in.
 

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Guess who was right?

new gaskets and vac lines all over the UIM; deleting the EGR. did not seal at all, and I'm chasing a vacuum leak / near-stall idle. hopefully new gaskets and all that jazz fixes it. I instantly broke the DPFE sensor's nipples trying to yank it off. not sure how i'll fix the 'REF' (downstream) side yet to fit a vac line in.
Do you need the little inserts for the top two holes on the UIM? I grabbed a couple at the yard this weekend remembering yours were messed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
Oil change & finally fixed the EGR flow sensor.. thing... issue - mine had the nipples broken. I picked one up off a 96-04 F-150, and ran a line from the EGR valve's former source to the 'HI' (large diameter) feed on the sensor. no more hanging.

slammed into a pretty good pothole a few weeks ago and the wheels wobble at 75 now. Grr. just as well, really - I'm on 09 focus 17s which look Great on the car, but their tires are ready to be retired, so I may just go back to the OEM 16s and get rid of these come summer.

the car needs exhaust; MMC757 was very gratious and donated as spare set of manifolds for me; I'm debating on replacing the Y-pipe as well; the 3-bolt flange is ick. I might go dirty and use one of those 'reducers' and a pair of clamps to just adapt the diameters correctly, and step up to 2.25 inch beyond, too. The Probe has borla exhaust and is really loud, I may *giggle* delete the Cougar resonator and stick it on the probe. There's a spare Cougar sitting in the junkyard nearby anyway if the cougar becomes too raspy and I want it back. I also really need to take a buffing wheel and some spray paint to a whole bunch of surface rust before it becomes serious corrosion.
 

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:wave:I haven't been keeping up with the forums but if those manifolds you're speaking of are the magnaflow ones, then you gotta clearance the bracket that holds the intermediate shaft. Just a little bit.
 

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They were just factory pre-cats.
Those California compliant ones have moved on to car part heaven.
 

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Discussion Starter #257
Re: Restoring & building Murky, the silver Mercury

Y'all won't believe this one.

Pulled out of my icy parking spot. Clunk. Drove a few miles, steering felt off, checked, saw, laughed, waiting for tow truck.




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Discussion Starter #259
Passenger seat, didn't want to lose it on the way.

I'm a little bit at a loss. I wonder if i reinstalled something incorrectly, if the last guy's overtightening weakened it, or if it was just it's time to go. That strut gave me a lot of issues reinstalling it during the clutch job (changed strut mount). I hope i didn't do something wrong - I don't want to wreck the konis installing them, either!

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Discussion Starter #260
So I'm kind of disheartened. started with the rear right strut replacement, knuckle pinch bolt would NOT move. impact gun stripped the head into a perfectly machined sphere, an angle grinder and a bit of tricks got the strut out ,but then the bolt just wouldn't move. I cut it in half to get the strut out, and a propane torch, PB blaster and 20 oz hammer wouldn't move it, so I went to MAPP, a 4 pound sledge, and acetone / ATF. even there, the knuckle bent itself to FUBAR territory before I noticed, and before the un-threaded portion of that bolt would budge. I'm impressed, but angry. I think I'll set that knuckle aside and go grab a junkyard one. I'm not excited to go considering the awful weather, but I'm out of ideas. I want this damn girl back on the road. the probe is fun, but it's a rattle trap and it really shouldn't be a daily driver in it's condition.

Grr.
 
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