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Can i do this myself? I want to see if it will come back on. I think i fixed the problem.
Thanks.
 

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If you fixed the problem, the light will go off on it's own after a few key cycles. If you want to speed up the process, disconnect the battery for ten minutes. If the light comes back on after you reconnect/start/let idle for a while, then you didn't fix the problem. If the light stays off, then you did.

I like chicken soup.
 

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Originally posted by: Fett
If the light comes back on after you reconnect/start/let idle for a while, then you didn't fix the problem.


Or you created a new problem. Like knocked something loose broke something or offended the Engine compartment gods.
 
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Really...... the best way is to clear the code by using a code reader. The code will be recorded and kept unless you manually clear it. You can find a nice code reader on Ebay that can read domestic and import vehicles......those readers really come in handy when your stumped on a cel.
Doing the battery disconnect/reconnect often is not recommended but...... it does speed things up.
 
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Thanks fellas. I would just take it to the the shop but i cannot drive (2nd DUI). I would have someone drive it to the shop but there is snow everywhere, and my car is real clean and shiny. The CEL just bothers me knowing its on. Being that its rarely driven and before i added my new audio system no CEL light. But it just all the sudden came on. It started to run rough at low RPM's and it had a strong exhaust smell. It just bothers me because i cant drive it to go see what it is. Plus, it only has 19,000 miles on it.
Thanks!
 

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Originally posted by: naynay
Really...... the best way is to clear the code by using a code reader. The code will be recorded and kept unless you manually clear it. You can find a nice code reader on Ebay that can read domestic and import vehicles......those readers really come in handy when your stumped on a cel.
Doing the battery disconnect/reconnect often is not recommended but...... it does speed things up.
I agree having a scanner is nice but, the statement that the codes are kept and recorded unless you manually reset with a scan tool is not correct.

When a "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" reset is performed using a scan tool (1) the Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) (DTCs) number and DTC is cleared, (2) the freeze frame and diagnostic monitoring test results are cleared, and (3) the Onboard Diagnostic II (OBD II) system monitors status' are reset.

If a "Keep Alive Random Access Memory (RAM)" reset is performed by unhooking the battery for at least 10 minutes or by using a scan tool that supports this function (professional grade instruments), all of the above PCM reset functions occur PLUS the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) or adaptive learning contents, such as fuel trim and idle, are also reset.

The only downside to a RAM/KAM reset is that the vehicle may have drivability issues until the adaptive learning processes have been "relearned" by the PCM, about 5 to 10 miles of driving.

This short term drivability concern is why it is "recommended" to use a scan tool to reset the PCM (consider the customer perceived problems if they get their car back from the shop and it runs a bit poorly).

If you won't really use a scan tool, don't bother spending the money to purchase one just to reset the DTCs/check engine light.
 

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You don't have to buy a scan tool just go to Autozone. They'll clear the code for you if you'd like. Oh and by the way I agree "Let it out Fett." Keeping things bottled up isn't good for you.
 
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