[JScullin]

You're also supposed to replace it every few years. So unless you got that kind of time...

 

[dallarace2]

sorry i thought this was a hot street forum not a record mileage forum

every custom pipe manufacturer, every track day racer, every drag car
.....utilise headers wrapping
lowering the under-hood temperature is very important

 

[mmc757]

Recommend taking this discussion to a separate thread instead of cluttering his build thread. Sorry for my participation in the hijacking Rally.

 

[rallyusa]

Hey guys, no worries about hijacking the thread, it's all good! Actually it's a good discussion and I've never really thought about it too much. I do like the idea of keeping my under hood temps as low as possible, but I also like the idea of my headers not having to come off anytime soon. I'm wondering if anyone's seen this "Header Armor" stuff before? It's basically a DIY heat shield that doesn't fully "wrap" the header, it's more like an OEM formed heat shield:

Header Armor™

Header and Manifold Heat Shield - Header Armor™

www.heatshieldproducts.com

I'm not as concerned with the front header as it's directly behind the radiator fan and will be getting cooled pretty constantly, but the rear header definitely has the potential to bake a bit since it's not in a well circulated/ventilated area.

 

[mmc757]

That's how I would do it next time. Build heat shields. I was in a big rush on my last build so I skipped it but I think that's the right answer.

 

[B3NN3TT]

They say ceramic coating is one of the best methods for reducing under-hood temps. I'd say that would be the most reasonable and practical solution.

 

[rallyusa]

hey all, sorry I haven't posted updates for a couple of weeks, been busy at work and with family stuff, here's the latest:

• managed to clean up and get my alternator bench tested, it looks relatively new so I'm going to go ahead and use what I have instead of buy a new one
• cleaned up my axles, they are both in great shape, one had a boot end that was missing it's boot clamp, but somehow hadn't spun out all of it's grease, so I cleaned it up, put a new strap on (the boot is fine) and it's good to go, the only thing I need to do now is source a new carrier bearing (or whatever the heck it's called) that holds the right-side half-shaft up mid-way from the wheel to trans
• got my rebuild kit for the front brakes, I'm going to re-use the stock for now, I have the new stainless lines as well, I'm hoping I won't need to upgrade the brakes but we'll see

next steps:

• I had a friend fab some caps for the oil return holes on the block where the older style heads don't cover, I need to drill a couple of holes for the final fitment, I'll take pics when I do, it's an elegant solution
• I'm going to replace all of the coolant hoses with new ones, but i'm going to fab all of them instead of buying them, I'll do a write-up on that too (unless someone already has?)
• finally, before I start building everything back up on the subframe, I'm going to take apart the transmission and see if I need to replace any components

my dilemma is this, I'm starting to like the idea of just restoring the car and driving it and getting a different (RWD) car for rallyx, what do you all think?

 

[rallyusa]

Look what I just ordered from ebay.co.uk , looks like we share components with quite a few Euro vehicles, I had started down the route of removing all of the rubber and buying a new bearing, then creating my own poly bush for it, but found this and said screw it

Ball Bearing for Front Drive Shaft Ford MONDEO OEM 1094821 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ball Bearing for Front Drive Shaft Ford MONDEO OEM 1094821 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

ebay.us

 

[mmc757]

my dilemma is this, I'm starting to like the idea of just restoring the car and driving it and getting a different (RWD) car for rallyx, what do you all think?

Nothing wrong with building the car normally for now. If you decide to lift it later you will have the knowledge and experience to do it. Our cars really are rather nose-heavy and long-nosed for a Rally-X situation. It would be cool for sure, and I've always wanted to lift a Cougar myself but there's a lot of satisfaction in just building a nice car too.
There's also value in using a car with more off-the-shelf parts options for a rally-x car. You will be beating the snot out of the suspension and we don't have a lot of suppliers left making our suspension parts.
Just grab an Impreza in decent condition and race it right off the street, upgrade as you go.

 

[rallyusa]

on that note, look what I just picked up for $350 on Facebook Marketplace:

 

[B3NN3TT]

Great choice! Probably the WORST choice for rallycross, because of their propensity to bend, but excellent street wheel.

 

[rallyusa]

Great choice! Probably the WORST choice for rallycross, because of their propensity to bend, but excellent street wheel.

It's looking more and more like I'm going to build this car as a street car and look into a different car for RallyX, so this might not be an issue But even if I do end up RallyX'ing the car, my feeling is I'll use the 15" wheels + rally tires when I take it to the track.

 

[mmc757]

I always liked those wheels too. B3nn3tt has great photos of his car with those wheels

 

[rallyusa]

This weekend I got the trans disassembled finally, low and behold the trans is in fantastic shape, little to no bearing wear, gears are all meshing well, all end play in spec, so that was a welcome surprise. I spent some time getting everything cleaned up, then put a coat of primer and paint on it to not only make it look a little nicer, but help prevent it from getting as nasty as it was before.

I'm thinking I'm going to have everything back together by the end of August if things keep going as well as they are, I do have a question, does anyone know where to find this trans-mount insert? I can't find it anywhere:

Edit, also another question, for the sealant is it OK if I use the same RTV that I used for the block/bulkhead or is it another spec that I should use? I also have some permatex grey

 

[mmc757]

Read the gray sections in this post

I found a tube of the anaerobic sealant for $46 about two years ago.

 

[mmc757]

That's the top mount right?
It looks like a couple of manufacturers sell the entire mount assembly.

 

[Beans]

Car too nice for rally cross for sure now

 

[rallyusa]

Hey all, back to my build again after some time dealing with family stuff and a promotion at work that's taken up all of my time...

I just pulled the trigger on a Fidanza flywheel, I'm looking to get a decent clutch kit to go with it, any recommendations?

Also, I'm looking to buy some paint so I can touch up the engine bay and do some other body touchup work, any recommendations on where I can buy manufacturer-specific paint for the Cougar? Zinc yellow is the color of my car.

 

[jaged]

I like competition clutch. there are a couple options one being a dual face which would be interesting, but my car is stupid and has a puck style

 

[mmc757]

I tried to buy zinc yellow once based on the paint code but it didn't turn out quite right. I think it might have been a primer issue, or just a different type of paint than the OEM used.
I would try to find a paint shop that has one of those color scanning tools that analyzes a paint sample to formulate the right color, then maybe pop off a side view mirror cap or gas cap cover to bring it in to be analyzed.
You probably want an acrylic urethane paint. We were very happy with the quality and useability of the paint we got for my project car from TCPGlobal, but your local paint shop should be able to give you good advice for your setup.
Or you could just order it by paint code and hope it turns out okay.