New Cougar Forum banner

81 - 100 of 104 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
This guy over at a Porsche forum used JBWeld, I'm inclined to use that instead of high temp RTV just for the higher pressure handling characteristics. Here's the thread I'm going from, I think I'm going to take the JBWeld route, and if it doesn't work, then a new short block is in my future:


@mmc757 I will definitely take your advice first and hold up the head gasket to the block first to see where the water actually sits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
So a couple of things,

First, got the upper and lower block separated and the great news is that everything looks great, I'm not concerned any longer about the 2 tiny slivers I found in the oil pickup as I'm starting to thing it's from the oil pan itself as it was cross-threaded at some point and the bolt was replaced with a larger bolt apparently. I'm still going ahead and replacing the main and rod bearings just for peace of mind, but the crank main bearings and crankpin bearings are super smooth with no signs of wear, with the exception of the front-most main bearing which has a tiny amount of wear (but the crank journal is smooth, only the bearing shows the wear). I'm really impressed with this being a 100k motor.

I also went ahead and JB-welded the pitting (after grinding gently with my Dremel), I went a little higher than the surface and I'm going to cut it down later so it's perfectly even. Here are some pics of what I did today:

81670

81671
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Ok things are coming together quickly, the only question I have is around the head gaskets, I got a FelPro kit and there are a couple of places where a hole is blocked off, looks like a coolant passage. I've searched a bit and it looks like the most common answer is to leave the gasket alone and don't punch new holes, however I wanted to run it by @B3NN3TT and @mmc757 first since you've both been so helpful. I'll get a picture here soon.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,675 Posts
I used my gaskets as-is. Didn’t even think twice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rallyusa

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Work this weekend:
  • General clean-up of my work space (2-car garage, wife pulls her car in at night so everything has to be moved around)
  • Put the subframe on rollers, so as I build everything up it will be moveable
  • Stopped by a local engine shop on Saturday and talked to the owner about my JB weld repair of the head pitting, he said he sees it all the time and as long as it's not on the fire ring I should be fine, so it looks like I'm good to go there
  • Ordered new piston rings, main bearings and rod bearings (all std size)
  • Started the process of de-flapping my lower intake, those phillips screws are a PITA, I have a feeling I won't be able to get them out without some form of drilling/destruction /shrug
  • Started cleaning up the calipers and ordering brake parts (I'm going with stock for now), I do want to upgrade the brake hoses however to braided stainless, I'm wondering if SVT Focus brake lines will fit, they are plentiful on eBay and you can get all 4 for under $100.
  • Did a full detail on my wife's '14 Mustang GT, including clay bar... I was in a productive mindset this weekend :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
...Started the process of de-flapping my lower intake, those phillips screws are a PITA, I have a feeling I won't be able to get them out without some form of drilling/destruction...
I did this once with a manual impact screwdriver. It worked great. Obviously put a block underneath it for support before banging on it.
81678
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,675 Posts
I bought my gutted LIM already complete; screw that noise, I'm letting someone else do the work, LOL.

Re: brake lines: I don't think the SVT Focus lines will work; I haven't owned an SVT Focus for 5 years or so, but IIRC, the Focus uses REALLY SHORT rear lines. The fronts ought to fit, though.

I ordered a set of Goodridge lines from a site called buybrakes dot com. They were a little over $100, but man, the quality is top-notch. One thing to note with these: as I discussed in my autocross build thread, the rear lines are problematic if your Cougar has the inline pressure valve on them (and most New Edge Cougars DO have these). You end up with a female-to-female joint, so you have to get a pair of adapters to keep the valve (if you remove it, the hard line comes up 3-4 inches short of the bracket, so deleting it isn't really an option). I ended up finding a pair of adapters from an eBay store for around $14.

You need to source a double male end M10*1.0 x M10*1.0 straight connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I did this once with a manual impact screwdriver. It worked great. Obviously put a block underneath it for support before banging on it.
View attachment 81678
I haven't used m y impact screwdriver in over 10 years, I just had to go to the basement and dig around for it, thankfully I found it, I'll work on beating removing the flaps tonight, thanks :)

I bought my gutted LIM already complete; screw that noise, I'm letting someone else do the work, LOL.

Re: brake lines: I don't think the SVT Focus lines will work; I haven't owned an SVT Focus for 5 years or so, but IIRC, the Focus uses REALLY SHORT rear lines. The fronts ought to fit, though.

I ordered a set of Goodridge lines from a site called buybrakes dot com. They were a little over $100, but man, the quality is top-notch. One thing to note with these: as I discussed in my autocross build thread, the rear lines are problematic if your Cougar has the inline pressure valve on them (and most New Edge Cougars DO have these). You end up with a female-to-female joint, so you have to get a pair of adapters to keep the valve (if you remove it, the hard line comes up 3-4 inches short of the bracket, so deleting it isn't really an option). I ended up finding a pair of adapters from an eBay store for around $14.

You need to source a double male end M10*1.0 x M10*1.0 straight connector.
Thanks for the info! I just ordered a set, they look great and it's awesome that they come with all new hardware. The good news is that I still have my custom brake line kit with a bunch of fittings so I'm not even worried about the joints.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
FYI, The Polaris Ranger uses the same size and grade rod bolts that we do at half the price. Those are TTY and should be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #90 ·
FYI, The Polaris Ranger uses the same size and grade rod bolts that we do at half the price. Those are TTY and should be replaced.
Hey @mmc757 do you have a link you could share on where to buy those? I've found a few on eBay (genuine OEM) for about $5 a bolt, so far my searches for Polaris Ranger connecting rod bolts are showing 4 total around $30. It looks like the bolt is the same for a variety of Ford engines as well.

Thanks for the info too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Hey Ya'll, I'm in the process of sourcing the bulkhead/girdle bolts that are TTY, I came across this post:


Can I get an acknowledgement that the bolts listed in that post are correct? Also, sweet mother of God, some of those bolts are expensive...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
I dont think the lower end need to be replaced.
I will just be doing the rod bolts and head bolts for my next build
TTY Bolts
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
Hey @mmc757 do you have a link you could share on where to buy those? I've found a few on eBay (genuine OEM) for about $5 a bolt, so far my searches for Polaris Ranger connecting rod bolts are showing 4 total around $30. It looks like the bolt is the same for a variety of Ford engines as well.

Thanks for the info too!
There are lots of sources.
Search for MJ9 x 1 x 40 polaris bolts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Thanks @mmc757 the cheapest I could find the Polaris bolts is $7 on eBay, however I was able to find the F3LY-6214-A bolts here 2000-2019 Ford Engine Connecting Rod Bolt F3LY-6214-A | TascaParts.com for $1.96 a pop, so I'm going to go ahead and order those. Also, I read through the post you shared, good stuff, I'm going to just do a really good job of cleaning everything and re-use the bulkhead bolts with some Loctite, I can't justify the cost of getting all new bolts when I could go buy another engine for $200. If it blows apart, then I'll just go ahead and get another motor :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
That's a good price. I wasn't able to find them that low last time I looked.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,675 Posts
...I can't justify the cost of getting all new bolts when I could go buy another engine for $200. If it blows apart, then I'll just go ahead and get another motor :)
This is exactly my mantra when doing anything on this car. 3.0's are so cheap and plentiful these days, and the work's not hard.

PERSPECTIVE.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rallyusa

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
Something to consider; a lot of people would be reluctant but I figure...WTH?
In my build, I'm going to use the crank, bulkhead section, and windage tray from my 2.5l donor. This allows me to avoid having to modify the oil pickup tube and avoid removing the ATX sleeve from the end of the crank. Neither of those are that big a deal but it just makes life a little bit easier.

Actually, I'm not totally sure if the bulkhead section even matters, it might just be the windage tray that needs to match the oil pickup...I dont remember. But I already cleaned and painted the bulkead section from my 2.5 donor so I'm going with it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rallyusa

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Something to consider; a lot of people would be reluctant but I figure...WTH?
In my build, I'm going to use the crank, bulkhead section, and windage tray from my 2.5l donor. This allows me to avoid having to modify the oil pickup tube and avoid removing the ATX sleeve from the end of the crank. Neither of those are that big a deal but it just makes life a little bit easier.

Actually, I'm not totally sure if the bulkhead section even matters, it might just be the windage tray that needs to match the oil pickup...I dont remember. But I already cleaned and painted the bulkead section from my 2.5 donor so I'm going with it.
That's a really good idea, if I had my original 2.5 and it was in good condition I'd do the same, however I'll probably end up cutting on the oil pickup to get the 2.5L oil pan to work, I already test fitted the exhaust with the 3.0 oil pan and I don't like the clearance (practically none) between the pipe and the pan, plus my 2.5L pan is the updated one, and the 2.5L oil pickup tube is gone (with the old engine I used as a core exchange). Luckily I have a belt saw and a good stick welder :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,851 Posts
I don't think cutting or welding is required for the pickup tube. If I remember right, we were able to just heat it with O/A and bend it into the correct location on the last build.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rallyusa

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,186 Posts
Update on injectors, the one on the left is the "brand new", "Bosch" injector I got off of eBay, the one on the right came out of the 2004 Taurus engine that I'm using.
View attachment 81606
Also, here are the nozzle pics, just for the posterity of this post if anyone comes looking in the future, this is why you can't use most Taurus/Sable injectors (except for 1999), because the spray pattern is for a split port.
View attachment 81607 View attachment 81608
Old subject, but the big difference between the 04 injectors and the Bosch ones is that the 04's are EV14 while the Bosch injectors are EV6. EV6 was a stopgap measure used mostly in vehicles which started their career with return fuel injection and were transitioned to returnless. EV14's have a much finer frequency response than EV6 and probably just wont operate with an EV6 computer. Source: Tried to use EV14's from an 04 in a cougar, didn't work...
 
  • Like
Reactions: rallyusa
81 - 100 of 104 Posts
Top