New Cougar Forum banner

21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,304 Posts
Exactly, 99-00 had an aluminum crossover tube, changed to plastic for 01-02.

My build has 02 heads but uses a 00 aluminum crossover tube. They are interchangeable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Yeah, it looks like it was superseded by a plastic one, I'm still going to see if I can just reverse engineer it into something I can use off the shelf parts to replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Also, I'm trying to price out doing a brake upgrade as well, I've been looking through the wheels/tires section and can't really find much solid info, is there a good/known upgrade solution? I'm willing to fab my own brackets if needed and can get some rotor blanks precision drilled, just looking for a good, cheap upgrade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,546 Posts
I Haven't had that piece off for awhile, but I seem to remember 1 side didnt have bolts holding it in. It was just an Oring and used pressure created when tightening the opposing side down to hold it in place. That side may pose difficult to just stick a piece of hose on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,546 Posts
Early focus SVT had a 300mm brake option and shares our bolt pattern
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I bought brakes from here: Contour and Cougar - Kits

Haven't installed them all yet as I bought red calipers for the front and my rear calipers are out for coating to match until who knows when at this point because everything is still closed...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
alright, picking up a 3.0 Duratec from a 2004 Taurus from a salvage yard about 40 miles away, seller claims it's under 100k and it's only 200$, hopefully it checks out good and the project can continue
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,304 Posts
Nice! Be sure to get the other pieces you will need for the swap - a pair of 3.0 head gaskets and a set of head bolts, and all-new timing chains, guides and tensioners. That way you'll be all set once the action starts and you can do it all in one step, rather than sitting around later waiting for parts when you could be building!

Note - be sure to swap over the top motor mount bracket and the oil separator from the 2.5 block to the 3.0 block while the heads are off - they won't go in afterwards without doing some serious damage to them (you should see my hilariously deformed oil separator, and all the grinding on my motor mount, LOL).

I used the 3.0 Taurus cams on my build, but a lot of people use the SVT 2.5 cams, too. There is VERY LITTLE difference between the profiles of the 2 kinds of cams. Your 2.5 Cougar cams will be a bottleneck on a 3.0.

I'm excited, I think you'll love it. The 3.0 gives it that "big engine in a small car" feeling that I love so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
OK, so got a peach of an engine, 100k on the clock, dealer-maintained, not a drop of oil leaking from anywhere, for $200 + $50 core charge since I only gave them my old short block and nothing else. I think I want to replace the valves in my 2.5 heads, plus my 2.5 heads cam bores are a bit chewed up, so I'm going to need to take that into a shop and have them bored and have caps put on and have the 3.0 cams checked and ground if needed. I'm going to "assume" that the motor is really good, but I'm also going to take everything apart and reseal it while it's out. While everything's apart, I'll be checking the crank caps and shaft itself for wear.

I'll be sure to take your advice to hear @B3NN3TT about the oil separator and mount :)

I'm also planning on welding my own headers, I'm teaching myself to weld and it'll be good practice.

So next steps are:

  • Get the cams off the 3.0 and take the heads + cams over to an engine shop and have them thoroughly gone thru (did you use the 3.0 cam caps or 2.5 cam caps @B3NN3TT?), have the heads cleaned and valve stems re-sealed and valves seated while I'm at it.
  • Order a 3.0 head gasket kit, and head bolts, I want to get good quality head bolts that can be re-used, any links?
  • Order a 3.0 (or 2.5?) timing kit.
  • Make my headers
  • Make my motor mounts, I have the Poly kit, going to make some molds and do another post/write up on that.
  • Rebuild my power steering pump if it's repairable, it was leaking like a sieve, I got a rebuild kit off of Amazon so we'll see.
  • Bench test my alternator, make sure the connector tabs are good inside, solder if needed.
  • Drop the subframe, make some sort of rolling apparatus, and put everything back together on the subframe. The idea is to use my 5000lb engine hoist to lift the front of the car and drop it onto the subframe instead of going back thru the top.
  • I haven't even thought about the trans yet, I need to see what sort of upgrades I can do, def. want to put a new slave cylinder in, and clutch kit, will have to do some research.
  • Start thinking about front suspension while everything is out as well, been looking at Euro spec-Mondeo rally coil-over kits, and they are super expensive, may see about getting a kit that you can weld together yourself.
  • What to do about A/C... I'm not really planning to daily drive it, and I'm planning on stripping out the interior and putting in a roll cage, so I'm thinking I'm just going to yank the entire thing out... One less thing to go bad on race day.
  • Rear suspension
  • Rip out the interior, build roll cage.
  • Find some good racing seats.
  • I've also been thinking of making a carbon-fiber front hood and back trunk to make it lighter, but I may be getting in over my head :p
- Oh, and wheels, I really like the old-school O.Z. Rally white wheels, looking at 17" so I can get a bigger brake kit as well.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,304 Posts
Wow, looks like a good one, nice and clean.

I used the same 2.5 cam caps that were on the heads; it's the only way to guarantee that everything will fit back together correctly. They are all numbered so you will be able to get them back in the same spots they came out of.

Pretty sure the 2.5 and 3.0 timing sets are identical part numbers. Although I think when I was shopping I searched for 3.0 anyway because I was using the 3.0 cams and crank.

Re: power steering leak - most often, it's not the pump that leaks. It's the little 6-inch steel elbow that comes off the pump and connects it to the pressure line. You can buy those through most parts stores, but the replacement parts are not very good. They don't fit correctly and you always end up having to bend or tweak them to get them connected, and then... they just leak. Again. So if you really want to stop the leak from that piece, you have to get a. genuine Motorcraft replacement. They are out there, but they are expensive. Rebuild the pump first and keep your fingers crossed, but my money is on the fittings on the adapter line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
AWESOME! Exciting stuff!
PM me your email address if you need the 2.5l build manual.
  • Get the cams off the 3.0 and take the heads + cams over to an engine shop and have them thoroughly gone thru (did you use the 3.0 cam caps or 2.5 cam caps @B3NN3TT?), have the heads cleaned and valve stems re-sealed and valves seated while I'm at it. Doesnt matter. Probably stick with the 2.5's to keep the matching set together. Also, if your going to this expense anyway, its probably worth asking the shop about the cost of installing the larger valves.
  • Order a 3.0 head gasket kit, and head bolts, I want to get good quality head bolts that can be re-used, any links? Rockauto
  • Order a 3.0 (or 2.5?) timing kit. 3.0
  • Make my headers MSDS has headers if you want to take the shortcut. The price on the website is for the headers and Y-pipe, all coated. If you skip the coating you save a little money, if you skip the y-pipe you save a lot of money. You can email them what you want to do and they will get you an accurate quote.
  • Bench test my alternator, make sure the connector tabs are good inside, solder if needed. Replacing the alternator is the worst job on the car. If you can squeeze a new one into the budget, now is the time.
  • Drop the subframe, make some sort of rolling apparatus, and put everything back together on the subframe. The idea is to use my 5000lb engine hoist to lift the front of the car and drop it onto the subframe instead of going back thru the top. This is a good plan. Goes back together like butter
  • I haven't even thought about the trans yet, I need to see what sort of upgrades I can do, def. want to put a new slave cylinder in, and clutch kit, will have to do some research. You can get a limited slip differential (Torsen or M-Factory I think are the only current manufacturers) and there are also lightened flywheels available...SVT is a little lighter, and Fidanza is a lot lighter.
  • Start thinking about front suspension while everything is out as well, been looking at Euro spec-Mondeo rally coil-over kits, and they are super expensive, may see about getting a kit that you can weld together yourself. Our struts options are getting pretty limited. BAT struts generally get good reviews. British American Transfer
  • What to do about A/C... I'm not really planning to daily drive it, and I'm planning on stripping out the interior and putting in a roll cage, so I'm thinking I'm just going to yank the entire thing out... One less thing to go bad on race day. If you havent been following this thread, theres an AC delete pulley available that you will need for your 01 timing cover
  • I've also been thinking of making a carbon-fiber front hood and back trunk to make it lighter, but I may be getting in over my head :p I would put the CF hatch way down the list. Rear end weight is the least of our problems. Also, there are still aftermarket CF hoods available new if you would rather just buy one.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,304 Posts
I would put the CF hatch way down the list. Rear end weight is the least of our problems. Also, there are still aftermarket CF hoods available new if you would rather just buy one.
This is true. The platform is pretty nose-heavy, so the more weight you can get off the FRONT end, the better off you'll be. Think moving the battery to the trunk, deleting A/C, carbon fiber hood, fiberglass fenders, yadda yadda yadda.

Bodykits.com has some fiberglass fenders on clearance for a smoking price, but their shipping costs are more than the parts. So that was a hard pass for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Thanks for the response guys, a couple of follow-up questions,

  • I'm taking the heads into the shop, I want to see about using the larger valves, should I just take the larger 3.0 head valves out and use those? I'd save some money for sure.
  • I think I'm in the clear with my oil pan, but not 100% sure and haven't really looked yet, since I have a 2001 model, I shouldn't need to swap out my oil pan right?
  • Also, should the stock radiator be sufficient or do I need to upgrade that as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
Thanks for the response guys, a couple of follow-up questions,

  • I'm taking the heads into the shop, I want to see about using the larger valves, should I just take the larger 3.0 head valves out and use those? I'd save some money for sure. Ask the machine shop. they should be able to take them out and inspect them then let you know.
  • I think I'm in the clear with my oil pan, but not 100% sure and haven't really looked yet, since I have a 2001 model, I shouldn't need to swap out my oil pan right? The 01 oil pan should be good. If it looks like this one on the inside, that's the currently best available.
  • Also, should the stock radiator be sufficient or do I need to upgrade that as well? Stock should be fine. The SVT might be a little bigger but we dont really have overheating issues unless something else is wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
If you decide to delete AC, you could also source a 99/00 timing cover to avoid the need for the AC delete pulley. Its sort of a wash I guess because the 99/00 cover has an idler pulley so you have the same number of moving parts either way, it would just be a little more of a compact final package which might help if you make your own headers.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,304 Posts
I found that I could NOT use the 2.5 oil pan on my 3.0. Basically it's because you have to use the 3.0 oil pickup tube (the mounting points are different on the windage tray or something), and the 2.5 pan won't clear the 3.0 pickup.

3.0 valves have historically been the choice for anyone going that route. If you don't mind doing the work, or at least paying for the work, that should be a good alternative.

I went with an SVT Contour radiator; it's about twice the thickness of the Cougar radiator. I don't know if it was necessary, but it was good peace of mind for me, especially since I'm also using an oil cooler. Note - the standard Cougar fan doesn't mount up elegantly to the thicker radiator (it mounts, but won't sit 100% flush), so if you do go that route, find an SVT Contour fan as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
I found that I could NOT use the 2.5 oil pan on my 3.0. Basically it's because you have to use the 3.0 oil pickup tube (the mounting points are different on the windage tray or something), and the 2.5 pan won't clear the 3.0 pickup.
Thats right, I forgot about that issue. We were able to use a torch to heat up the pick-up tube and bend it into a functional shape. I'll bet the escape pickup tube would solve that problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Thats right, I forgot about that issue. We were able to use a torch to heat up the pick-up tube and bend it into a functional shape. I'll bet the escape pickup tube would solve that problem.
Have you had any issues with this? I think I'm going to do the same thing as the profile of the Cougar oil pan is lower and makes the package a bit more compact than if I go with the 3.0 oil pan, plus I get the additional structural integrity of being able to bolt up the trans
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
Have you had any issues with this? I think I'm going to do the same thing as the profile of the Cougar oil pan is lower and makes the package a bit more compact than if I go with the 3.0 oil pan, plus I get the additional structural integrity of being able to bolt up the trans
Sadly, the car isnt running yet, but I dont expect any issues. It was really very little movement required.
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top