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I read a thumbrule that said to target at least 1 CCA per CI. Thats less than 200 CCA for a 3l.
Our typical OTC batteries are more like 550-650 CCA, but if that thumbrule is true, you may be able to go much smaller, like a motorcycle battery...
Maybe even this one

Or you could go with quite a bit bigger for piece of mind and still be around the price of an OTC lead-acid.
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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I read a thumbrule that said to target at least 1 CCA per CI. Thats less than 200 CCA for a 3l.
Our typical OTC batteries are more like 550-650 CCA, but if that thumbrule is true, you may be able to go much smaller, like a motorcycle battery...
Maybe even this one
Holy smokes, 1.4 pounds - might have to look into this. I have a mounting box for a motorcycle battery to bolt it to the inside of the front inner frame rail. Could be a good upgrade. Jut re-route a few wires...
 

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Me too, the G9 looks like a pretty solid option
 

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I installed one of those small Odysseys in that turbo 3L car I built. It worked great and took up almost no room.

 

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i got an odyssey battery too. works good if it over 40*F lol. some cold mornings i gotta jump the car. im betting that battery could have been shorting while on big turns. any battery over 3 years, i always test them. they cause more issues than youd think
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
i had an event back at grissom yesterday and it was all good. no issues at all with the car, me on the other hand needs some work again. so many events worrying about the car messing up, and not paying attention to driving.
 

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I'd be cautious of those Braille batteries, they don't state what battery chemistry they're using. If it's Lithium Titanate (LTO), okay, it's probably decent enough for a vehicle starting application. If it's Lithium Iron Phosphate, it better be using Headway Cells, and don't charge the battery below freezing unless you want to see rapid degradation of the battery. If it's Lithium Nickle Manganese Cobalt, avoid like the plague.

Assuming it's LTO charging is still an issue. Just like LiFePO4 and NMC, LTO requires a BMS to prevent your car from catching on fire when you over charge the battery. The problem is that most BMS's work by just cutting off the battery from the charging circuit when one cell exceeds the BMS's preset voltage. In an alternator driven application, this can be pretty much the same as disconnecting the battery while the alternator is at full power output, which causes open circuit voltage at the diodes to surge extremely high, often blowing them out. I don't know any of us who enjoy replacing alternators. If Braille is selling a battery without a BMS, oh boy! LTO is less prone to burning than NMC, but does still burn. LiFePO4 is the only lithium chemistry that doesn't catch fire by itself and self extinguishes when exposed to external flame. LTO is also the only chemistry that'll handle high temps under hood, and low temps of northern midwestern winters while still supplying the current needed to start a car, and not degrade too quickly.

Looking into the lithium starter batteries offered, I don't think any of these are packing a BMS, they're all claiming hundreds of cranking amps, which any normal BMS would shutoff at. So unless they're using a custom high power BMS, or bypassing the BMS for discharging, they're not using a BMS.

In short, I'd deal with a small AGM or flooded cell, Lithium isn't ready for starter batteries yet. If you absolutely must use lithium make sure it's LTO and figure out a safe way to charge them.
 
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