New Cougar Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a rockford amp. 600 watt punch series and I'm having trouble connecting the remote wire. I think I've know where it goes but I don't know how it connects. Could someone help me? I believe that is why the subs are not working. Also where did you guys connect your ground wire?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Ground with the bolt under the rear seat that holds the seatbelt latches in place...really easy to get to. Good grounds make for good power, and prevent amps from blowing up.

As for the remote lead, your head unit should have a blue wire coming out of it. You need to run this to your amp. If you don't have enough wire, get some more at the auto parts store. Cheap 18 or 20ga wire will work fine for the remote. If your head unit doesn't have a remote lead (I had this problem once with an ancient Aiwa unit) you can run it to igniton switched power, which will definately be available behind the head unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
no affence but my recomendation is if your asking questions like this you should have someone do it, it is very easy to fry amps, being that i sell car stereos i see tons on top of tons of amps come back burned up or blown up and 99% of them were from people trying to hook it up themselfs and they didnt know what they were doing.. though i am all for doing things yourself, maybe find someone you know that has done it before and get them to help you out...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
Ok, first off... using any bolt that secures something to you frame is a bad idea for a ground. If you are running 4 GA or larger, you should ALWAYS use a bolt and nut with your ground... I prefer this with any ground, however if its smaller than 4 GA... it doesnt matter

NEXT... where is your amp mounted??? If you mounted it to your box... think of relocating it... Whats easier for a thief? A ready made Amp and Box package (rip out 3 wires and a set of RCAs) or having to unscrew the box, then unscrew the amp from a second location? Just something to think about.

Anyplace in the trunk area is a good place to ground... DO NOT use exsisting holes... If you are running small wire... IE less than 4 GA, and you elect to mount your amp to the back of the seat... where the carpet meets the back of the seat in the center, is a decent place to put a single screw ground. Get a wire wheel and scrape the paint off, the metal is thin enough you shouldnt have to predrill... make sure you use lock washers, and it get tighted securely without stripping the hole... once tightened, pull on it and wiggle it, make sure its not going to move... then get yourself some white lithium spray and spray the exposed metal and the ground itself... this will help keep the ground and the surrounding metal from corroding.

If you elect to mount the amp other places... use the same proceedure but anywhere else in the trunk area... but before you go punching holes in things, check the other side, make sure you arent going to pierce a fuel tank, a brake line etc... (common sense however its better to remind then assume)

Now, if you are going with 4 Ga or larger, do everything the same except dont use a screw, predrill a hole and use a bolt and nut (with lock washers)

</ END RANT>

You say you have your subs hooked up and they dont work... hmmm could be anyone of a million things... test these solutions out...

1. do you have an inline fuse in your power line (and is it good?)
2. is your remote line hooked up properly at the amp and at the back of the head unit??
3. using a multimeter, touch the + and - cables at the amp, make sure you have power.... it should read 12-13 volts with the car off (if its less, check your connections at the grounding point and at the battery, if your battery has corrosion, clean it!!! this WILL cause power loss....
4. assuming everything is hooked up correctly, does your head unit have the ability to turn the sub output on and off? check that...
5. are your RCA lines hooked to the correct outputs on the head unit? are they hooked to the Inputs on the AMP and not the line outs?
6. when you turn the car on and have music playing does the amp power light come on? most are green if they are good and red if its in protect mode...
7. have you checked the subs and made sure they are actually wired in the box? (take an ohm meter to the terminal cup on your sub box... if you get 0 Ohms, you either have blown sub(s).. or a wire has come loose/disconnected)
8. does the ohm rating of the subs match the handling capabilities of your amp?

it would be easier for us to help you if you took a few good pictures... but try some of the above fixes and let us know how it goes... hope this helps

BTW- I fully agree with drumminguy81... I install car audio and visual as one of my 3 jobs... and I've had to replace/fix more installs b/c people dont know what they are doing... I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, after all... you gotta learn somehow right? I also am a firm beleiver in installing everything myself so I share your passion there... but sometimes you have to know your limits... again thats not aimed directly at you redcougarguy... thats just a general statement :thumbsup:


Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks you for all the info. I am not doing this all by my self. My friend has been helping me and he has some experience with this stuff. I am going to check and see the the rca cables are in there right. I might have them reversed. This "system" is only going to be used for a short while because i play to upgrade my subs and build my own boxes so relocating the amp is not at the top of my list right now.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top