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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I'm on my 6th alt. in my '99 and the current one just blew out after 3 weeks of use. I've become sick and tired of replacing the same part over and over again. This last alt. was a 200A H.O. unit. Basically, I am going to custom fabricate something a little more reliable. I have a few ideas already, but I'd like to start with the 01/02 setup...

Greg
 

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Exactly what is your plan? I am curious as to what theory you might have to building an alt that is better than any company out there currently producing alts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am NOT questioning the companies that produce alts, nor did I state that I was going to build a better one. I am trying to create something a bit more reliable, thats all...

Greg
 

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Right, I get that. Let me word it another way....

You obviously have a theory on why the alts have failed, and you obviously have a theory on how to remedy said failures. I wonder if you are on the right track, horribly off base, or hit it dead on the nail. But it seems that you want to keep your theory and idea a secret. My suggestion is to go ahead and enlighten the rest of us, so that we may help you. Hell, I am still curious as to why you would want to use the 01-02 case....or is that your theory, that the cases have something to do with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Secret? What secret? I asked for pictures so that I could simply do a comparison. I am more interested in the wiring changes in the 01/02 more than anything else. I could care less about the case! Yes, I do have a couple of theories as to why the 99 and 00s fail, probably along the same lines as to what has been posted repeatedly in the past. So whats there to enlighten? Lets, see, one more time... I would like to make something better, SIMPLY put! On another note, I started this thread asking for a few pictures, not an invitation to be flamed or attacked. Now I regret doing so...

And Topgun, I have these alt swaps down in less than 45 mins now. Only thing I've done to ease the jobs was drilling out the threads for the bottom bolt and placing a bolt in a reverse position with a lock washer and nut on the other end. This way, I can pop that bolt out from the wheel well with no problem...

Greg
 

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Christ this is why I hate the internet......

Ok, you seriously need to take a few moments and calm yourself. Nobody attacked you, nobody even said anything remotely negative to you.

[extremlycalmvoice]Let me recap your thread for you. You asked to see some pics so you could compare the two alternators. You obviously have a theory or, at the very least, have an idea. I, being the curious fellow I am, asked what your theory was. If you don't want to tell us, me, what your train of thought is...then fine. I was just asking where you were going with this, so maybe myself, or someone else, could assist you. That is all, it was just a simple question. Now have a smoke and a beer, calm down for a few seconds, and continue. There is no reason to get upset.[/extremlycalmvoice]
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
[verycalmvoiceaswell] I'm calm. I just found your last post to be a bit sarcastic and rude. I have also seen many threads where posts like that one lead directly into a flaming contest. I am a curious guy myself, which is the reason I asked for pictures so that I could maybe gain some knowledge. And no, I do not have a theory yet here, aside from the aforementioned "why the alts fail" which has been discussed in the past.[endverycalmvoiceaswell]

Greg
 

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I know that one of the main reasons the alts fail has to do with the brushes coming apart. The brushes start loosening and begin to expand and hit the inside of the case, especially at high RPMs. Which is why a lot of people get the battery light coming on at high RPMs.

I know the actual output of our alts is very high, and we don't have too many amp robbing accessories to max out. I remember someone once saying something about our alts being 4 field alts as opposed to 3 field.

Anyway, bad brushes is typically the biggest cause of failure.
 

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my batt light comes on at 5k rpm..it started doin that ever since i had the new high output alternator put in...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All of mine have done it, usually around the 6k RPM mark. There is also the belt slippage that causes it, most noted by the "chirp" sound when shifting. I have replaced my belt with one that is 1/2" shorter, 71.5" stocker vs. 71.0. This has helped some, but this past alt. still exhibited bat. light at a higher 6.5k RPM, during its 3 week life! Still, the curious question is, is why the premature failure? We know what it is, just why?

Greg
 

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Go with the Gatorback belt.....hands down the best belt. I had the same problem with chirping, especially slamming into 3rd gear, I tried belt dressing WHICH I WOULD NOT SUGGEST, and I tried a slightly shorter belt. Same results. I went with the Gatorback, and have NEVER heard it chirp. I have had the same Gatorback belt for going on three years now, and it still looks great.
 

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With a/c: 4060715

Waterpump: 4030267
 

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Originally posted by: Fett
Go with the Gatorback belt.....hands down the best belt. I had the same problem with chirping, especially slamming into 3rd gear, I tried belt dressing WHICH I WOULD NOT SUGGEST, and I tried a slightly shorter belt. Same results. I went with the Gatorback, and have NEVER heard it chirp. I have had the same Gatorback belt for going on three years now, and it still looks great.
Same here except 3L equipped. No slippage. After seizing the Autolite 100% brand new alternator the first time I wound up the 3L, I switched to a good ol' Motorcraft alternator.

No problems since. Although I am sure it's only a matter of time.
 

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You may also want to check the wiring to and from the alternator. If you have not replaced it or at least stripped the loom off of it in order to ensure the wiring is good.

A melted/damaged wire was the cause of a premature failure on my replacement alternator. When we replaced the 1 year old alternator, it still would not charge...(forgot the fuse) then replaced the fuse...charged..but poorly. Couldnt visbily see any problem. So the + and - wires where stripped and behold the wiring was burned.

Replaced the wirind and all is good now. I also installed a Alternator Under Drive pully which is a good thing as it slows the alternator down and during high rpm driving will not spin the alternator nearly as fast so not to cause brush float.
 
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