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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok ran my husband's coder on my cougar and it came up with the fuel rail pressure sensor which I haven't been able to find nor any youtubes for the right engine/year/car to figure it out on my own. this last time I ran it about a week ago due to another odd sound when my son was driving it it came up with the code P1518 OBD trouble code. Looked up the code and it is talking about the intake manifold runner control conditions and after talking to my brother he said that it was prolly a loose wire or something. I'm trying to teach my son how to work on this car as it is going to be his daily driver but both my brother and I are at a loss currently and would love any sort of help we can get!!
 

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ok ran my husband's coder on my cougar and it came up with the fuel rail pressure sensor which I haven't been able to find nor any youtubes for the right engine/year/car to figure it out on my own. this last time I ran it about a week ago due to another odd sound when my son was driving it it came up with the code P1518 OBD trouble code. Looked up the code and it is talking about the intake manifold runner control conditions and after talking to my brother he said that it was prolly a loose wire or something. I'm trying to teach my son how to work on this car as it is going to be his daily driver but both my brother and I are at a loss currently and would love any sort of help we can get!!
Fuel regulator is here:
https://www.carparts.com/details/M...cDnMtLNNn4bSO5X7AghoCh0IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Code P1518:
-Definition
Intake manifold runner control (IMRC) stuck open

It’s located under the engine cover on top of the front valve cover. The cable runs to the lower intake manifold. Could also be the little white bushings went bad and the metal bar might not be actuating properly. These can be found at a local auto parts store. My dad ordered these for my sisters 2000 ford van. Come in a set of 4 or 5 from advanced auto.




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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fuel regulator is here:
https://www.carparts.com/details/Me...cDnMtLNNn4bSO5X7AghoCh0IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Code P1518:
-Definition
Intake manifold runner control (IMRC) stuck open

It’s located under the engine cover on top of the front valve cover. The cable runs to the lower intake manifold. Could also be the little white bushings went bad and the metal bar might not be actuating properly. These can be found at a local auto parts store. My dad ordered these for my sisters 2000 ford van. Come in a set of 4 or 5 from advanced auto.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you loads!!! Boy is excited to get this fixed and said the pictures helped immensely!!:)
 

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Your welcome. Glad I could help.

In order to separate the fuel line you will need a fuel line separator tool.
I used these, but there are different types:




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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your welcome. Glad I could help.

In order to separate the fuel line you will need a fuel line separator tool.
I used these, but there are different types:




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Thank you again!! picked some up today and the rail sensor should be here by Monday so hoping the son n I can get it in working order by Monday evening if not Tuesday evening so he can breathe lol. Really wish I had found this forum a long time ago when I bought the car definitely would have saved me a bunch of headaches. I appreciate you taking the time to help us out and sending the pictures along with it so we have a better understanding of what we are looking for!!!
 

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Your welcome, we are also on Facebook just incase you want to get a faster response.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Your welcome, we are also on Facebook just incase you want to get a faster response.


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Did not know that either lol. Is it the same name on there too?? If so I'll definitely add the page.
 

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The Facebook group can be good for quick answers sometimes, but its also a place for bad answers. Come here for quality.

Can you tell us more about your symptoms? Did you just break out the code reader because of a check engine light or is it also running poorly?
Assuming its just giving you a code and maybe some minor symptoms...

The first thing to do with an IMRC is a visual inspection - Look at it to make sure the wiring is connected and in good shape, the cable running to the intake manifold is connected and in good shape, and the linkages between the front and rear are intact. actuate it by hand to make sure both sides operate and spring back. P1518 is "stuck open" so you will most likely find your problem on this step unless its an electronic problem.

Next, do an operational test - Watch the linkages while running the car from idle to over 3500 RPM to verify that it actuates when its supposed to.

If its not trying to actuate, then you check voltages to find out if its getting the open signal from the PCM or not. It probably is at which point the easiest solution is replacement.
81410


81411


81412


There's several more pages in this troubleshooting guide if the problem is in the IMRC you would have proven it by now.
 
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On the green cougar the coilpack was just sitting on top of the rear head for 50k miles.
 

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LOL, this is how my coil pack connector has been setup for at least a decade... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
This was how I bought the car. I’ll try to make it better when I put her back together.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The Facebook group can be good for quick answers sometimes, but its also a place for bad answers. Come here for quality.

Can you tell us more about your symptoms? Did you just break out the code reader because of a check engine light or is it also running poorly?
Assuming its just giving you a code and maybe some minor symptoms...

The first thing to do with an IMRC is a visual inspection - Look at it to make sure the wiring is connected and in good shape, the cable running to the intake manifold is connected and in good shape, and the linkages between the front and rear are intact. actuate it by hand to make sure both sides operate and spring back. P1518 is "stuck open" so you will most likely find your problem on this step unless its an electronic problem.

Next, do an operational test - Watch the linkages while running the car from idle to over 3500 RPM to verify that it actuates when its supposed to.

If its not trying to actuate, then you check voltages to find out if its getting the open signal from the PCM or not. It probably is at which point the easiest solution is replacement.
View attachment 81410

View attachment 81411

View attachment 81412

There's several more pages in this troubleshooting guide if the problem is in the IMRC you would have proven it by now.
Thank you!! Just got the fuel rail pressure sensor in the mail and the boy is home from school so heading out now to look at it all. Will def make sure to check all the wiring/connections first as he has to get a stripped bolt out first. But will take the laptop out for references as we go along!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Facebook group can be good for quick answers sometimes, but its also a place for bad answers. Come here for quality.

Can you tell us more about your symptoms? Did you just break out the code reader because of a check engine light or is it also running poorly?
Assuming its just giving you a code and maybe some minor symptoms...

The first thing to do with an IMRC is a visual inspection - Look at it to make sure the wiring is connected and in good shape, the cable running to the intake manifold is connected and in good shape, and the linkages between the front and rear are intact. actuate it by hand to make sure both sides operate and spring back. P1518 is "stuck open" so you will most likely find your problem on this step unless its an electronic problem.

Next, do an operational test - Watch the linkages while running the car from idle to over 3500 RPM to verify that it actuates when its supposed to.

If its not trying to actuate, then you check voltages to find out if its getting the open signal from the PCM or not. It probably is at which point the easiest solution is replacement.
View attachment 81410

View attachment 81411

View attachment 81412

There's several more pages in this troubleshooting guide if the problem is in the IMRC you would have proven it by now.
Sorry just seen the part that asked about symptoms. Check engine was on over a year ago and ran the coder on it and it just came up with the fuel rail pressure sensor. After multiple failed attempts by my local O'reilly's, Autozone n Advanced auto parts I just gave up on that. This last time however it was checked due to an odd sound that wasn't a knocking nor a whine. So ran the coder again and that's when it came up with the IMRC code. I bought this car from a former co-worker's dad 3 years ago for $500 and other than the fuel rail code that causes it to stall out after driven over an hour on interstate after it is parked I have only had to change out the alternator last year and tires. It's been amazing and I actually love the thing but my husband isn't mechanically inclined whereas I would rather do the work myself due to my father and older brothers teaching me at a young age but these 2 codes had me baffled sadly and also most of the mechanic friends that I have around here in this small town. The boy is 16 and wants to be a mechanic when he graduates so I figured this was a good learning option for him before he starts in rebuilding his grandpas old truck he inherited. And I have told him the same thing as my dad did me: "If ya are going to drive it you better know how to fix it" which these codes kinda made a liar outta me trying to get it fixed smh. So far he has gotten the fuel rail sensor in and is now checking the wiring around and too the intake. I showed him what you sent and he's to let me know when he gets to this part. So other than this new odd noise, the codes, and the odd ball stalling of the engine with a full tank of gas I am hoping that fixing these codes cures that issue.
 
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