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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First and foremost, forgive my limited knowledge. I researched the subject to the limitations of my current engine knowledge (have a feeling after the swap is done I'll know a bit more).

I'm finally getting to the point when I can actually start moving on a project that I had to cancel w/ bnoon and Rick...
Unfortunately, I can only start shopping for parts,... but I might start putting the 3.0 together in my garage and then when time comes swap it in.

Point is, there are some areas in my project that need some clarification. I plan on a 3.0/ svt hybrid naturally aspirated. I have the opportunity this winter break to go to my friend's uncle's salvage yard and get all parts I need (given they have them) for free or very low cost. I need to verify the parts I'm after and some aspects of the project.
Here is my list thus far:

- 2001 3.0 block from a taurus or escape (any recomendations, other preferable engines???)
- 2.5 heads to send to kinger for P&P w/ 3L valves (why do some use the svt ones for P&P? don't they end up the same? Also, for the P&P what are all the parts that need to be send?)
- oil/water cooler from 2.5 svt engine (do I really need it???) * Summit Racing cooler*
- svt UIM/TB (already have them, but if I can get the hookup I'll snatch a couple more and send the TB to get optimized... Also I read that the 3L LIM is ideal with the svt UIM, others say svt LIM is better :shrug: Need help on this one.)
- motor mounts (do I need any special urethane or such???)
- ZETEC 3.8 Final Drive (Yep, this one got me lost... WTF is it? I couldn't figure it out)
- svt cams (might as well grab them... but I want to see what the CAT cams are gonna do...)
*svt radiator

Please add anything you found necessary to my list.
Also, Would it be worth it to do a 2mm bore? Any disavantages?
Anything else that should be looked into for N/A performance (keep in mind I plan on keeping this as my daily driver)?
Which brings me to my next point, any of you got through emissions yet?

FYI, mods that are planned to go with swap are:
- custom exhaust (might have to hassle cougarGT and DanG for that one ;) )
- GMK CF CAI
- clevite bearings
- flywheel
- DMD
- LSD
- clutch (any sugestions?)
- electric water pump * metal impeler for simplicity's sake *
- walbro fuel pump
- 24# injectors
- MSDS headers
- custom chip (will a fuel management like e-manage be necessary also?)
- all suspention mods I can get

Sorry for the long thread, but I'll start shopping in about 2 weeks, and want to make sure to do the right thing.
Thanks in advance,
Gus.
BTW, if anyone needs anything that I could get at the salvage yard PM me, and when I go I'll figure out what hookup I can get on the needed part.
 

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- 2001 3.0 block from a taurus or escape (any recomendations, other preferable engines???)
2001+ is prefered. Just make sure its a VIN S Duratec 3.0L and not a Vulcan.

- 2.5 heads to send to kinger for P&P w/ 3L valves (why do some use the svt ones for P&P? don't they end up the same? Also, for the P&P what are all the parts that need to be send?)
I used SVT heads, because I bought the heads to get the SVT cams. Standard 2.5L heads, and SVT heads will all end up the same.

- oil/water cooler from 2.5 svt engine (do I really need it???)
I would run the Summit Racing oil cooler. Its an Oil/Air cooler, more effective.

- svt ecu (do I need it??)
No. You do however need some form of engine managment. SVT ECU is an option, but I feel a custom burned chip from SF is the better answer.

motor mounts (do I need any special urethane or such???)
If you fill the stock mounts with poly, you will experience less wheel hop, and a more solid powertrain. You will however feel more vibrations throughout the car.

ZETEC 3.8 Final Drive (Yep, this one got me lost... WTF is it? I couldn't figure it out)
I wouldn't bother with this mod. Essentiall its "slowing" the car down as a way to acheive traction. I feel if you add an LSD, and have the proper suspension setup, the car will hookup better. This seems to be a bandaid fix.

Also, Would it be worth it to do a 2mm bore? Any disavantages?
This will raise the compression ratio by .1-.2. I would only do the overbore if the block needs rebuilding, etc.

- electric water pump
That is a serious hassle. I would just install a new "metal" impeller replacement water pump.
Also add a SVT radiator to the list of mods.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the pointers man.
If I have to send the engine to get rebuilt, then I'll have it bored...
svt radiator, and metal impeler added. I guess a 5hp gain from getting rid of the "parasite" pump is not that important anyways... plus if I end up doing this myself, I might as well avoid hassles.

Are there any hopes to pass emissions? Will I have to swap OEM headers and exhaust (for the cat converter) for inspection?
 

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If tuned properly there is no reason it would fail a sniffer test.
I have a feeling most Ford Tech's wouldn't be able to tell I have a 3.0L, so it should pass the visual inspection.
Just make sure you run a main cat, and you *should* be ok :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kool.

I was checking your swap pics... will I be able to rent the equipment necessary to do the swap related adjustments ( crank bushing cut, oil feed, etc)? bc/ it seems like you had a shop (school???) to work at.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Originally posted by: ShadowCougar
Kool.

I was checking your swap pics... will I be able to rent the equipment necessary to do the swap related adjustments ( crank bushing cut, oil feed, etc)? bc/ it seems like you had a shop (school???) to work at.
Thanks for the help.
Thats my fathers shop I did the swap at. Between him and myself if we don't have a certain tool, its probably not made. :)

It really only requires some basic tools, HOWEVER i would not rent tools. In the longrun it costs more to rent them than it would be to buy them.

I used a combo of JB Weld and Quick Steel to block the oil returns.
I used a tap and a allen plug(loctite), covered with quick quick steel to block the allen plug from backing out.
You could easily use a hacksaw to cut the bushing off the crank, as well as the ear that needs to be removed from the block.
 

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If your looking to do heads I have a GB going that would save you over $200, I would be willing to accept deposits to hold the price. Thanks

PS Nice response cougarGT
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Kinger,
I'm very interested in that, but I have to make sure I'll have the money to get the P&P done now.
It all depends on how much I spend now for the 3.0 shopping spree and Christmas.
I'll let you know, but even if I miss the discount I'll still get it done.

Thanks for the help guys.

edit: how much would the deposit be?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just remembered... on the 01 block, will I need to fidle with the fuel rail?
Also I just read on CEG about the swap DVD that Brad and Rick are doing... might be helpful.
 

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i still think the you have to consider going full 3.0L - 2001+ block with the 3.0L heads, ovals ports, no runners, as use the complete 3.0L uim/lim assembly.... with a hots set of cams that setup should fly. kinger can you do your magic on a set of 3.0L oval heads?

another perk is that you can get the heads done before you pull your engine so you'll save on the downtime to your car

in that kind of setup you would need to fiddle with the fuel rail, either flex hose or a bronzed connection can be put together...
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by: mcon99
i still think the you have to consider going full 3.0L - 2001+ block with the 3.0L heads, ovals ports, no runners, as use the complete 3.0L uim/lim assembly.... with a hots set of cams that setup should fly. kinger can you do your magic on a set of 3.0L oval heads?

another perk is that you can get the heads done before you pull your engine so you'll save on the downtime to your car

in that kind of setup you would need to fiddle with the fuel rail, either flex hose or a bronzed connection can be put together...
I'd be getting an extra set of svt heads within the winter break, so pulling mine out wouldn't be an issue.
About the straight 3.0, I still have time, as for now I'm aquiring as many parts as I can.

Jess, I appreciate the offer (maybe when the time comes I can pay you with beer, the official currency of NECO tuners ;) ) . For now all I'm doing is gathering the parts I can get from my lil hookup and deciding if this is something I can do on my own.
I have one side of my garage that is free to use, and I have time to put the engine and parts together before even thinking about pulling mine out.
I'm excited about dooing this on my own terms, but my bro and some of my friends think I won't be able to pull it off :shrug:
Time not being an issue, what do you guys think?
Last case I'll send the project to buckshot...

Gus.
 
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