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The NX Wet Kit says that no timing retard is needed. How true is that? All it says that is required is a special fuel additive if going over the suggested jet size. (I think I will be sticking with a 50 shot to ensure safety.)
 

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50 shot you are fine not retarding ignition timing, however for safety you still should....

Thair additive is basically to act like running higher octane gas, which would allow you to sneak away with not retarding timing any, though it;s still recommended.
 

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No chip + 93+ octane fuel = sufficient

Chip (remapped fuel/timing curve) + 93 octane = more than sufficient

However, since you will not be running the nitrous all the time, make sure that you get a chip that allows you change between two different programs at will. Just make sure that you always use 93+ octane fuel and have the non-nitrous program take full advantage of this. Superchips makes a "Flip-Chip" that will accomplish this. Keep in mind that programming this chip will cost $$$.
 

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hmmm ok
I'm going to be running a 55 shot to start next season at the track
after a couple runs and I get used to the nitrous
I'll probably install the 75 jet.
I have alot of bolt-ons and I'm going to buy the Apexi-SAFC at the end of this month

I'd like to make this set-up as safe as possible for my cougar.
I know I still need to get a DMD
I have an oil cooler, fuel press. and oil press gauge installed
also I need like two stage colder plugs right? Do I remove these
and reinstall the regular plugs after I use the nitrous or do you guys just leave them in the car?
I'm assuming leave them in the car right?

Am I taking the wrong steps? Is the only way to retard timing through a chip?
or the E-manage which I can't afford nor do I understand. (not an option for me)
I'd like to do a 2 stage switch chip from Pro-M but they seem to cost a little more than I can afford.

thanks
 

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go E-manage!
can handle your injector specially bigger injector.
I don have many mod as u, but still I can feel difference.
anytime you can adjust A/F inclease, injector cycle, and also can set up at some points.
in my case,
I adjust injector cycle +50% after 3500RPM
I adjust A/F increase up to 10% - 18% at 3600, 4200, 4800, 5400, 6000
and I changed A/F map too.
better than S-AFC!
 

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Well this is what I learned after doing a BUTTLOAD of research in 3 days time and talking to a crap load of ppl.

1) Straight from 2 NX technicians mouth (1 being the guy who basically designed James' nitrous setup) our cars can run the 75 jet daily with 2 step colder plugs and 93+ octane fuel no timing retarding needed.

2) 100 shot WILL require timing retard or else your playing with a nitrous bomb.

3) They HIGHLY recommend a window switch

4) The Mafterburner 2 seems to be the best all around tuning and nitrous controlling unit available for us. It enables a tps wot switch, window switch built in and can change /air/fuel delivery every 400 rpms. For $400 it does a whole lot.

5) Air/fuel gauge and oil pressure gauges are highly recommended.

6) Bottle heater and bottle pressure gauge are necessities.

7) A stock clutch won't hold up very long if power shifting.

8) A LSD is also highly recommended (get this when your stock clutch turns to a gelatin substanance.

9) Get some good plug wires ie: Ford racing wires

10) NX doesn't state weather thier kit is a wet or dry kit...but the only kit made for our car is a wet kit. In fact they both said they only make wet kits or direct port kits.

11) Purge kits aren't really needed unless you take your bottle out alot, but they are damn cool!

12) I dunno, I'll tell you after I install my kit next week.
 
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Great Info man!

Number 11 though; Purge kits are usefull if you open your valve and close it a good bit, not taking your bottle out.
 

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Sorry this is off the subject but DgnZcoug are those numbers in your sig with or without nitrous.
 

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Those numbers are with N2O. Without, I believe he hit somewhere around a 135? I could be wrong on those #'s. The 187.8 was with N2O.
 
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