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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my drift body kit installed, and there's no need for the stock fog lights anymore. Since there's nothing plugged into the harnesses for the stock fogs, the idiot light pops up saying there's a light(s) out. How can I mod the wiring for the fog lights so that the circuit is complete and the idiot light is tricked into thinking there's no bulbs out? If this even is possible?
 

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If it just checks to see if there's current passing through the sensor then you should just be able to fill the "gap" with a wire. I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work... when a lightbulb burns out the current flow stops. :shrug:

Are your foglights in good condition? :cover:
 

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I put a drift kit on my 2000 cougar, did away with the fogs but have never even seen an idiot light for burnt bulbs even when the highs and lows went out.
 

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I put a drift kit on my 2000 cougar, did away with the fogs but have never even seen an idiot light for burnt bulbs even when the highs and lows went out.
That's because you have a 2000. They only exist in the '99s.
 

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I wonder if it will illuminate still if you pull the relay...
 

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I wonder if it will illuminate still if you pull the relay...
Yeah. There has to be something because not all Cougars came with fogs. Or maybe the ones that did automatically came with the overhead console with the warning lights.

But I'm sure he's not the first person to remove fogs on a '99 that came with them... This has to be a solved problem, I just don't know what the solution is.

Wait, are you sure the light is on because of the fogs? It seems like if you remove them, then that light shouldn't come on until you try to turn on the fog lights. (I know for certain that the warning comes on only when you turn on your headlights, and I imagine fogs are the same way.)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wait, are you sure the light is on because of the fogs? It seems like if you remove them, then that light shouldn't come on until you try to turn on the fog lights. (I know for certain that the warning comes on only when you turn on your headlights, and I imagine fogs are the same way.)
i am not 100% sure that the light is on because of the fogs. there's only 2 lights that aren't lighting up that i can't even remember if they're supposed to light up, b/c its been so long since i've had them working. (sorry that was wordy)

1. its a 99. to the left of the steering wheel, where i have the dial to turn on the headlights/fogs/perimeter lights.... is that supposed to light up? cuz its not.

2. its not currently dark so i can't double check this, but i can't remember if its the icon for popping the trunk, or for popping the hood. one of them lights up right now, but the other one does not. are they both supposed to?

after getting these two parts determined, i'll replace the needed bulbs and see what happens.

DELIVERYGUY - the fogs are in decent condition. they're completely functional that i'm aware of. i haven't had them in for quite some time, they've just been sitting. i'd have to take pics to show you if you were interested. i'm planning selling them along with a few other goodies i just haven't had the chance to get pics and whatnot yet.
 

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If it just checks to see if there's current passing through the sensor then you should just be able to fill the "gap" with a wire. I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work... when a lightbulb burns out the current flow stops. :shrug:

Are your foglights in good condition? :cover:
That has short, popped fuse and, well plain lack of electrical knowledge written all over it. That would be like connecting the two battery terminals with a piece of wire and only a 15 amp fuse in the middle. A car battery puts out wayyyyy more than 15 amps of current. You see, a lightbulb creates resistance, thus drawing current. A piece of wire has negligible resistance and the all of the 600+ amps that the battery could potentially provide would try to pass through it and fuse would instantly pop, thus not solving the problem. :crazy:
 

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That has short, popped fuse and, well plain lack of electrical knowledge written all over it. That would be like connecting the two battery terminals with a piece of wire and only a 15 amp fuse in the middle. A car battery puts out wayyyyy more than 15 amps of current. You see, a lightbulb creates resistance, thus drawing current. A piece of wire has negligible resistance and the all of the 600+ amps that the battery could potentially provide would try to pass through it and fuse would instantly pop, thus not solving the problem. :crazy:
Yes, if you turned on the stock fog switch, that's true (disconnect the fog wire from the back of the stock switch?). But the wire would allow the bulb-out module to test the wiring and think the bulb filament was in place. It's just a fancy continuity tester when you get down to it, and the jumper wire provides continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, if you turned on the stock fog switch, that's true (disconnect the fog wire from the back of the stock switch?). But the wire would allow the bulb-out module to test the wiring and think the bulb filament was in place. It's just a fancy continuity tester when you get down to it, and the jumper wire provides continuity.
i didn't even think of that. removing the wiring from the back of the headlight/fog switch so that nothing even goes to them.

let me again say, i have 1 light out on the car that i know if, so i'm not 100% sure that this idiot light is on b/c of the fogs being unplugged. as soon as i rip out the dash to replace the bulb for whats out, then i'll know and get back to everyone
 

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Yes, if you turned on the stock fog switch, that's true (disconnect the fog wire from the back of the stock switch?). But the wire would allow the bulb-out module to test the wiring and think the bulb filament was in place. It's just a fancy continuity tester when you get down to it, and the jumper wire provides continuity.
Guess I should have added if the switch was turned on. Still not a good idea if the stock switch still has the wires in because it wouldn't be that hard to accidentally pull that switch out if you turn the lights on quickly.
 

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i didn't even think of that. removing the wiring from the back of the headlight/fog switch so that nothing even goes to them.

let me again say, i have 1 light out on the car that i know if, so i'm not 100% sure that this idiot light is on b/c of the fogs being unplugged. as soon as i rip out the dash to replace the bulb for whats out, then i'll know and get back to everyone
That wouldn't be it. The indicator only signals for EXTERIOR bulbs being out, not something in your dashboard. And not even all of them - for example, I don't think the side repeater turn signals will trigger it, nor the marker bulbs on the very edges of the headlights. However, 99 times out of 100 when someone says they've checked all of their bulbs, they have a break light bulb out and don't realize it - there are in fact 7 bulbs back there, so it's easy to lose one and think it's fine, especially in the center stop light. (Hint: you can usually figure out what type of bulb is out by when the warning light comes on - if it never turns off after you start the car, it's a brake light. If it turns on when you turn on the marker lights, it's a marker light. If it comes on when you hit the headlights, it's a headlight bulb. And so on.)

The dimmer dial does not light up. I'm told there's a bulb there and even a +12 wire, but no ground for some reason. It can be made to light up with the addition of a ground from the lighting circuit.

The hatch release switch should light up. It'd be surprising if this isn't working because it's an LED. The hood release doesn't light.

I don't think you actually answered my first question - is the warning light on before you turn on the fogs after you hit the brake pedal? If so, you have another exterior bulb that's burned out somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't think you actually answered my first question - is the warning light on before you turn on the fogs after you hit the brake pedal? If so, you have another exterior bulb that's burned out somewhere.
when the car turns on... and all the idiots lights turn on together, and then go off... the "light out" indicator just stays on until the car is turned off. it never flickers when the fogs are turned on/off (the fogs aren't plugged into their harness, they're not on the car).

However, 99 times out of 100 when someone says they've checked all of their bulbs, they have a break light bulb out and don't realize it - there are in fact 7 bulbs back there, so it's easy to lose one and think it's fine, especially in the center stop light. (Hint: you can usually figure out what type of bulb is out by when the warning light comes on - if it never turns off after you start the car, it's a brake light.
i HAVE checked all of the brake lights. i just recently had them OUT of the taillights from when i have to remove them to install the back bumper and they all work. reverse, running, brake, signal, all. BUT i don't recall checking the 3rd brake light. i'll check that tomorrow morning. that could be it.

thats GREAT info you gave saying that the light indicator doesn't tell you about the interior lights. deff helps in my case. i'll be back with updates tomorrow
 

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I can't believe I misspelled "brake". :facepalm: I'm going to blame it on the traveling I was doing yesterday. Yeah, that's it.
 
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