[JSlo]

I have a 99 cougar with 233,000 km on it. It is a v-6 sport model all stock. It had a tune up at 190,000 km but plug wires were not changed and I replaced EGR valve at 200,000km. This car is riddled with problems and I wish someone would steal it. I am not that lucky so let me explain some of the bigger problems and hopefully I can get some advice.

1. Oil leak at rear main seal. This needs to be repaired and I hope to do it soon. Is it better to pull the engine to do this or do it from underneath? Are there any other repairs that I should do as preventative maintenance while doing this? Is the chilton manual very helpful when doing thi big of a job?

2. Rough idle when cold. Several posts addressed this but none said only when cold. But same story, revs to 2 or 3k then down to 100 and eventually stalls. If weather is warm it seems only to have a slight miss. It also does that thing at high way speeds, that slight hesitation that is almost unnoticeable, especially up hills. Also, I loose brake power at any time. This is inconsistent and happens in different conditions. I cannot find any vacuum leaks in air hoses. So from what I have heard from mechs and now spending the last 4.5 hours reading posts, I need to do the following: replace plug wires, pcv valve, O2 sensors, fuel filter, fuel pump, iacm(sp?), and upper and lower intake gaskets. But in what order should I do this in based on what is the most likely cause? And if I do the intake gaskets, is there anything else I should do while I have it apart? Also, obviously my CEL is on but some time it flashes too. I've had it checked by a code reader and it said something about banks 1 and 2 running lean.

3 Change oil light. Tried exaclty what common problems post said. Didn't work. Tach and Speedometer goes all the way up then returns to zero. Then there is a 13 on message screen and different things show up if I push select. I think some of them are engine temp, voltage and rpm's but one says FLOO and there are some others. This is a Canadian car and my owners manual actually doesn't say anything about haw to reset it. I saw one post that said to diconnect neg. baqttery cable for 10 minutes so I'll try that I guess.

I guess I'm just lost with this car and don't know where to start. I would appreciate it if some one could give some direction in further diagnosing the problems and maybe what order to do the repairs I've mentioned. Thank you to any one who didn't fall asleep in the middle of this post.

 

[MrFroge]

Just a question for you.. Have you had this car since it was new or did you buy it sometime during its life.?.

BTW, information on resetting the change oil light should appear along with the description of the lamp in your owners manual..

Ignore everything that you try to read form the cars display in diagnostic mode.. OBD-2 information should be read with a meter or computer with the software that can handle the job.. check out what is available at your car parts store..

 

[ND4SPD]

wow... with 233,000+kms on it, it might be worth just looking into a brand new engine

 

[ignernt]

for item 2, try replacing the IACV first. This is the most likely cause. Do an archived message search for IACV to find where it is.

 

[JSlo]

Thanks for all the replies. My owners manual does not say anything about the change oil light. I bought the car with 190,000 km. In oposts I saw, there is referenve to a chilton manual that covers 1995-2000 contours, mistiques and cougars. But all I can find is for 1995-2000 contour and mistiques. Will this work or should I order one from the U.S.?

As far as a new engine, I was planning on keeping this car and fixing it up but I have limited funds so I am trying to get it running decent and hoping to trade it in in march. I have an 8 month old and I twist my back every time I put him in his car seat.

 

[EllenD]

Ok, slow down. First off, the change oil light comes on every so many thousand miles just as a reminder to service the car. Just press reset and units at the same time, hold them in for 5 seconds or so, and the light will go out. That isn't a problem.

Second, the rough idle at cold is most likely the IACV (intake air control valve). It's a common problem in the duratec engine, and going to fordpartsonline.com and searching "idle" under mechanical should give you the part you need. It's about $60 and is located on the back of the upper intake manifold (small metal cylinder-shaped part with 1 electrical harness plugged into it and held on with 2 small bolts). That will most likely solve that problem.

As far as the CEL it probably is an O2 sensor problem, replace those and the light should go away.

If you want to replace the manifold gaskets (not a bad idea with that many miles on the car), the only thing you have to take off is the upper manifold (basically unplugging all of the vacuum lines and harness, and removing the throttle assembly) and then removing the lower intake manifold (a little more tricky because of the fuel rail, but not that bad). Then just clean the upper intake manifold, the lower intake manifold, and replace the gaskets (carb cleaner works wonders).

 

[JSlo]

I've tried holding the 2 buttons down and it will not work. I've tried with the car runnung, off in on position, off holing the buttons and then startying it and nothing works. I will try changing the AICV next. Thanks for your help. BTW, has anyone tried changing a rear main seal? Is it hard to do?

 

[FastCougar]

two main seals ... front and rear. The front main seal is behind the harmonic balancer/main pulley. The rear main seal is behind your flywheel/flexplate and requires that the engine and transmission be pulled and seperated. Good luck!

 

[jec215]

Originally posted by: EllenD
Ok, slow down. First off, the change oil light comes on every so many thousand miles just as a reminder to service the car. Just press reset and units at the same time, hold them in for 5 seconds or so, and the light will go out. That isn't a problem.

It is the select button and the units button. Hold them in for 5 seconds and it will beep and the light should go out. This is for the little yellow wrench for the change oil reminder that turns on every 4500 miles. Or that is what the manual says...Mine didn't want 4500 miles before it came back on. I am not sure you are talking about the oil change light though. Is the light in the over head console with the snow flakes or on the dash...ie check engine light for the IAVC valve or a bad O2 sensor.

Good luck!!!

 

[JSlo]

It is deffintely the wrench. But I thought of something. Is it possible that the wrench won't go out if the CEL or brake wear light are on? The CEL was on until yesterday and the brake wear light is still on as I have to change the rear pads some time soon.

 

[01blkcat]

No the wrench has nothing to do with anything - it is set by time and mileage only. From your post, is the CEL still on, or did it go off?

 

[JSlo]

The CEL is off. I dicsonnected the neg battery cable thinking it might reset the wrench light. It didn't but the CEL went off. The car still runs rough but the CEL light has stayed out.BTW is there another come name for AICV? I phoned the discount auto parts store and they are not sure what I am talking about and they are usually pretty smart about parts.

 

[Massiv]

Not sure if that was a typo, but you're looking for the IAC valve --> Idle Air Control. I'll bet if you search on here you will find the Ford part # for it. As for the wrench, FOR SURE it is turned off by holding a combination of buttons. I think it is Select and Reset. There are only three combinations possible, so try them all. It does take at least 5 seconds of holding both buttons down simultaneously to turn the wrench off.

As for the rear brakes, not sure if you've done them or not, but if you have ever changed your rear rotors, chances are you're good to just do the pads, and thankfully, that's a 15 minute job. Jack one side, remove wheel, remove pin, flip caliper UP, swap pads, flip caliper DOWN, re-insert pin, put wheel on, do other side, done.

Also, I had some so-called "premium" pads (raybestos premiums or something) that squeeked like crazy 2/3rd's of the way through their life (maybe that was the fronts). I found Ford value-line pads to be ideal in terms of noise/wear/dust/value, and apparently they don't need anti-squeel on the back of them due to the type of shim already on the pad. I didn't put it on, and they've never made a sound since my last front and rear changes... just an fyi...

Massiv.

 

[JSlo]

Yes that was a typo. The IAC valve was one that the guy at the part store mentioned and I think it was $29. As far as the wrench goes, I can assure you I've tried every combination people have told me to try and some I've made up myself and nothing is working.