G
Guest
·The Titan Cold Air Intake System
THIS POST IS ONLY TO INFORM OF A NEW PRODUCT
Since it is a new product it is here and not in for sale.
To stay on topic: ( This thread will not become another argument. This is only to be an "informative" thread. Answering questions about this intake as well as others intakes.
The first Cold Air Intake System proven installed without any battery relocation on an ATX.
The cost is $124.99 shipped for chrome. (If you wish to keep your current filter, your cost will be $113.00)
It gets you the following items
- 3 piping extensions in CHROME
- 3 couplers (choice of colors)
- 6 clamps
- Air filter
- Instruction booklet
Here is a General How-To for the install showing a GENERAL procedure!
Here are the dyno results (This is a general dyno, not all numbers will be identical)- The first run was with a plain AEM Short Ram, then the Titan Cai was bolted up- ( The gain was 6.4 whp and 8.4lbs/tq over the AEM shortram alone)
Every dyno varies from car to car- vehicle conditions, oil, fuel, etc. This is a general dyno, to give a general idea.
![]()
Here is a snapshot of the package that GRAYV6 received minus the filter which was not pictured (but will be recieved)
![]()
Here is the intake installed in my vehicle- My Vehicle is an ATX V6
![]()
Here is
the intake out of the vehicle attached to the Injen shortram
![]()
Please feel free to post questions about this intake.
If you are interested in placing in order please PM Nd4spd
Edit:
F.A.Q:
Q-Have you thought about protection from water? That looks like it will suck it
up...looks like it needs the AEM valve and I think they are like $40-$50
A-An AEM ABV is an option for any Cold Air intake system out there. It is also
recommended but isnt necessary. I as well as many other Cold Air Intake owners
do not have a problem with water. Unless you plan ondriving through 2 feet of
water dont worry about the AEM bypass valve. The filter has to be fully
submerged to suck up any water.
The only thing is , your intake filter may become dirtier quicker.
Q- What is waterloc or hydrolock?! Why does it hurt my engine if my filter gets
submerged?
A-Hydrolock is when water is attempted to be compressed ... water CAN NOT BE
COMPRESSED and the engine seizes because the pistons basically hit a wall.
Damage could be as severe as broken/bent rods, broken/bent wrist pins,
broken/warped rings, cracked cylinder heads, cracked/broken crank rod journals,
broken bearings, ect.
However, to get to that, water would literally need to be sucked into the
intake. To accomplish this, the filter would need to be submerged in water. A
general misting around the filter will not cause hydrolock. If you have to
forge a stream or river, you are driving the wrong vehicle
Q-Would there be any performance difference between the type of filter used?
A-The filter does and has been shown to make a difference. The best out there
to use is typically a true K&N Filter. To keep costs low we provide a K&N
Style filter. A true K&N filter can be purcashed online or can be found at
your local AutoZone.
Q-If you don't mind, how did you simulate the constant rushing cold air, if you
can't move while on a dyno?
A-On all dynos, a fan is placed in the frontal area to simulate cool air , on
road driving conditions. Remember: Every dyno varies from car to car- vehicle
conditions, oil, fuel, etc. This is a general dyno, to give a general idea.
Q-So I'm a little confused. You have to have a shortram correct? your not
suppling the MAf adaptor or the tube to the manifold? So basically EVERYONE
that orders this would have an extra filter?
Seriously drop the filter. It would ruduce your overall cost, you shipping would
be cheaper, smaller shipping boxes are cheaper. You could easily get this under
$100 without that filter.
A- Our prices are 124.99 for the filter, and every other piece of additonal
hardware. 112.00 Shipped of everything excluding the filter. 99.99 Shipped
for just the piping.
Our prices are firm and will not move.
THIS POST IS ONLY TO INFORM OF A NEW PRODUCT
Since it is a new product it is here and not in for sale.
To stay on topic: ( This thread will not become another argument. This is only to be an "informative" thread. Answering questions about this intake as well as others intakes.
The first Cold Air Intake System proven installed without any battery relocation on an ATX.
The cost is $124.99 shipped for chrome. (If you wish to keep your current filter, your cost will be $113.00)
It gets you the following items
- 3 piping extensions in CHROME
- 3 couplers (choice of colors)
- 6 clamps
- Air filter
- Instruction booklet
Here is a General How-To for the install showing a GENERAL procedure!
Here are the dyno results (This is a general dyno, not all numbers will be identical)- The first run was with a plain AEM Short Ram, then the Titan Cai was bolted up- ( The gain was 6.4 whp and 8.4lbs/tq over the AEM shortram alone)
Every dyno varies from car to car- vehicle conditions, oil, fuel, etc. This is a general dyno, to give a general idea.
Here is a snapshot of the package that GRAYV6 received minus the filter which was not pictured (but will be recieved)
Here is the intake installed in my vehicle- My Vehicle is an ATX V6
Here is
the intake out of the vehicle attached to the Injen shortram
Please feel free to post questions about this intake.
If you are interested in placing in order please PM Nd4spd
Edit:
F.A.Q:
Q-Have you thought about protection from water? That looks like it will suck it
up...looks like it needs the AEM valve and I think they are like $40-$50
A-An AEM ABV is an option for any Cold Air intake system out there. It is also
recommended but isnt necessary. I as well as many other Cold Air Intake owners
do not have a problem with water. Unless you plan ondriving through 2 feet of
water dont worry about the AEM bypass valve. The filter has to be fully
submerged to suck up any water.
The only thing is , your intake filter may become dirtier quicker.
Q- What is waterloc or hydrolock?! Why does it hurt my engine if my filter gets
submerged?
A-Hydrolock is when water is attempted to be compressed ... water CAN NOT BE
COMPRESSED and the engine seizes because the pistons basically hit a wall.
Damage could be as severe as broken/bent rods, broken/bent wrist pins,
broken/warped rings, cracked cylinder heads, cracked/broken crank rod journals,
broken bearings, ect.
However, to get to that, water would literally need to be sucked into the
intake. To accomplish this, the filter would need to be submerged in water. A
general misting around the filter will not cause hydrolock. If you have to
forge a stream or river, you are driving the wrong vehicle
Q-Would there be any performance difference between the type of filter used?
A-The filter does and has been shown to make a difference. The best out there
to use is typically a true K&N Filter. To keep costs low we provide a K&N
Style filter. A true K&N filter can be purcashed online or can be found at
your local AutoZone.
Q-If you don't mind, how did you simulate the constant rushing cold air, if you
can't move while on a dyno?
A-On all dynos, a fan is placed in the frontal area to simulate cool air , on
road driving conditions. Remember: Every dyno varies from car to car- vehicle
conditions, oil, fuel, etc. This is a general dyno, to give a general idea.
Q-So I'm a little confused. You have to have a shortram correct? your not
suppling the MAf adaptor or the tube to the manifold? So basically EVERYONE
that orders this would have an extra filter?
Seriously drop the filter. It would ruduce your overall cost, you shipping would
be cheaper, smaller shipping boxes are cheaper. You could easily get this under
$100 without that filter.
A- Our prices are 124.99 for the filter, and every other piece of additonal
hardware. 112.00 Shipped of everything excluding the filter. 99.99 Shipped
for just the piping.
Our prices are firm and will not move.
