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TY for answering my post.. I'm A shade tree certifide mechanic.. But this cougar(wifes car) has been a nightmare.. BUt I have gotten 113k out of the Biatch(2nd owner). This year has been a windfall of repairs( New Tranny,waterpump,thermo,radiator,battery routing cables(recall),Red Top Optima battery,about the fourth set of rubber(already about bald again),& lastly Fuel filter. So now im ready to mod the car as we got another vehicle for daily use..Currently all check engine lights are on *engine light lower left corner & wrench *upper cluster..Car now sputters badly engine light flashes & battery/alt light comes on at higher speeds(once you get there)replaced that(alt) once at Ford but the piece of crap factory replacement looks like its dying 3-4 months after warranty ran out installed 8-2002 what a coincidence.Im glad I can laugh at this point and im not giving up on her. I did go to auto zone and got my free OBD diagnostic codes and they read as follows

P0301 The pcm has determined that a misfire has occured in cylinder #1
P0351 The pcm has determined that a malfunction exists in the primary or secondary electrical circutis for ingnition coil "A"
P0305 the pcm has determined that a misfire has occured in cylinder #5
P0401 the pcm has determined that there is insufficient flow in the exaust gas recirculation system Help!
 

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I would start with the easiest things first, plugs, then wires, then coil pack.

The wrench light is just a "maintenence" light, it comes on every ? miles, reminding you to change oil, ect ect. There are two buttons you hold down for five seconds to turn it off. Try combos of "reset" and "units", or "reset" and "select". I think it's the former.

As far as your current list of repairs, the alts have been a problem with all Ford vehicles for some time now. Which caused Ford to find a different vendor. Tires...well, buy better ones. Obviously the car has nothing to do with your rapid tire wear.

All in all, if you are looking for a problem free car....trade in the Cougar. It's not what I would call "reliable". But it is a great looking car, and can be made to be fun. Good luck.
 
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TY for the info on coil pack wires and altenator.. Do you know what brand type spec ect ect plz be more descriptive on what types of performance upgardes i should do because stock is for chumps!
*woof* I hope my wifes car can run with the big dawgz soon... Fixed *idiot*wrench light one prob solved.. also?.. did by changing the fuel filter dump more fuel than plugs were used to therefore fouling them out? Read computer may need reset do i pull battery cable to do this or do i need to pull fuses #4 & #11 in the PCM to reset due to capacitor memory?
Thanks for your help
*gathering info for daylight*
 

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Disconnecting the battery for ten minutes will "reset" the PCM, you can see the gauges swipe when you reconnect and turn on car. As always, when restarting the car after reinstall of battery, let it sit at idle for ten minutes at least. That way the PCM can learn idle...which people tend to throw off by revving the car after initial start.
 
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Ok going to try this.. But I probably am still going to need plugs wires coil alt. Anyone got soem info on what types brand ect I should buy because stock is for chumps***Hopefully I can make it to the store to buy some soda and some phillies**
 
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Motorcraft or Autolite are about the only plugs/wires you want to run. I've heard lots of stories of people putting other brand plugs in and their car ran like crap. I doubt the plugs got fouled from changing the fuel filter. Unless the fuel filter wasn't installed correctly and the plugs aren't getting enough gas. That'll foul them out in a heart beat. But get the misfires taken care of ASAP. It's really not a good thing to drive a car around while it's misfiring on two cylinders.
 

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Well, isn't that sig a perfect way to endear yourself with those whom you're asking for help with your "Duracrap"... :rolleyes:

Sounds like your coil pack may be having issues, but the items that I would check before throwing in a new coil pack into the car. Your plugs and wires are extremely suspect at this point, especially for the mileage on the car. Pull and replace all 6 of your spark plugs (you do not need to pull the upper intake manifold to get to the plugs out- Just take a 3/8" extension, tape a 5/8" spark plug socket to it, and fish it down there after removing all the wires. You may have to unbolt the IMRC motor located on the front valve cover, but that's only 3 10mm bolts.

Replace the plugs with Motorcraft AWSF32FS plugs, gapped to .053", threads lubricated with just a dab of anti-seize compound. Then, if the plug wires are worn, oxidized, or if any of the boots are torn/rotting, replace them with a set of Ford 9mm Racing Wires from BAT, page 27 of their catalog. They're about as cheap as you'll find for a full set of plug wires. Don't forget your dielectic tune-up grease on the plug wire contacts to ensure good electrical connection and to stop corrosion.

Replace the fuel filter every year, and if you're still getting bad response from the engine, run a can of BG44k through the motor, preferably during a road trip where you're at speed for almost the entire tank of gas.

These are maintenance items- I would expect to change your plugs and wires ever 60k, despite Ford's assertations to the contrary.

BTW: To us, your engines are backwards. Literally..
 
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