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GC COILOVER with KONI STRUTS?

ok ok ok, before i get people telling me to search or linking me to the already existing "how-to" with "pictures", please hear me out.

i am gonna be installing the coilovers and struts with the assistance of a very qualified person. but i wanted to know if there existed a more detailed how-to. basically, if the how-to says "remove the spring and strut" its no good to me, b/c i don't know how to remove the spring and strut. i need a how to that goes step-by-step kinda like "remove wheel, then loosen this nut, then that nut, etc"

i would appreciate any help that anyone can offer me

thanks
 

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Here is an overview, taken from my own Ground Control installation. Be aware that before the install even begins, you need to do two things:

- spray ALL bolts and nuts in the vicinity of the wheel and strut the night BEFORE
- remove the perches from the aftermarket struts (to save time)

... and on to the overview:

1. Jack up all four sides, and support the car appropriately. Doing it this way will save you time in the long run.
2. Remove all four wheels, place to the side.

You can actually do #1 and #2 the night before, if you can, and that will give you better access to the bolts that you need to spray.

... to the fronts (the definitely harder ones):

3. Pop hood, and support it.
4. Remove, on both sides of the strut itself, the support for for the hose. Be sure to have a box or an inverted bucket underneath the assembly, so it can support the entire piece prior to removal.
5. Loosen the pinch bolt behind the rotor and remove.
6. Use a ball joint separator to separate the balljoint, or a cleverly placed tool (read: crowbar) and step down. The joint should pop out, and the assembly will drop down. Make sure it is supported on the box/bucket.
7. Place an offset wrench over the top of the strut, and then use an allen wrench to SUPPORT the strut while turning the offset wrench.
8. If you have the stock springs on, you'll need to make sure you have enough space to move the strut assembly out... which means really getting the bottom assembly out of the way. It's not easy, but you'll probably have to step it down, or find a way to compress the spring while still in the assembled area.
9. Strut should drop out.

Do other side. Remove the spring from the assembly, using a spring compressor. You'll need to reinstall the strut mount on the new strut/coilover. Make mental note (or a diagram) of how it went together, and follow the GC instructions on trimming the bump stops.

Take a break.

You can go and reinstall the fronts (which will be a hell of a lot easier now) or on to the backs and reassemble all at once:

10. Remove pinch bolt at the base of the rear strut assembly (this was quite difficult on my car -- only piece that required a breaker bar)
11. Loosen the bracket holding the brake line so it can be pulled free from the strut.
12. Remove stabilizer bolt/bushing (behind assembly)
13. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the top mount.
14. Strut assembly comes right out.

Again, do the replacements of the parts, and then reinstall. It's all reversed.

Total time for my install was a little over six hours, reusing the stock struts (so we had to take time to cut the perches).

Easy install... but take your time, and use anti-seize on everything you reinstall.
 

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Note to the wise: make sure you have all the sockets you need BEFORE you start. You'll need metrics from 10-18mm, 18mm offset wrench, set of allen wrenches, set of metric allen wrenches, plenty of PB Blaster or WD40, a crowbar, open-ended wrenches from 13mm-15mm.

I believe are the big things that I can recall we needed.
 
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