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Hi Joey,
Most welcome. While you could in theory put the lower bolt through from the outside, the upper... not possible unless you're willing to punch a hole through the inner fender or frame somewhere. But still, it is a shipload easier to just reach in and slide the bolts through then 'nut 'em up' afterwards. I guess an added bonus is if the bolt decides to seize or get mangled for any reason, it could be cut off a whole lot easier too. I seem to recall only needing to change the upper bolt to be about a half inch longer (I had something kicking around). Gives a guy a chance to clean up the alternator mount a little too and you get to 'pre fit' the alternator (push back the sliding bushing a spec) so that awkward one-handed install isn't so tiring.

Gord :)
I flipped the bolt an put a fully threaded bolt on the bottom. No dropping the y pipe needed. And i dont have fenderliner anyways so its a straight shot.

Usually i have no problems swapping alternators but we tightened the top bolt too much cause we were confident about this 3l build.

Nut and bolt is a good idea. On my car I only tightened the top bolt snug, so i can break it easy with a stubby ratchet.
 

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you mean when changing the alternator on a '99-'00? The Y-pipe is definitely in the way. I yanked the alternator with a swivel and a few other bits, but if it wasn't in the way, it'd almost be easy.

How is that Golden Merc doing, Gord? :)
I dont think the alternator moves enough to do anything to the bolt.

My cars had no issues with a flipped bolt for 7+years. I highly recommend.

Nut and bolt on the top sounds like a better idea though. Might try that too.
 

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I think my CEL bulb finally burned out lol. Usually it only takes 2 starts for my cel to come on but its not. The car also doesn't seem to try to adjust itself (mess with timing/idle and stuff) anymore.
 

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What's with you guys? I've been driving my untuned 3.0 with headers and HFC in competition with no CEL's yet. I even pinned my IMRC open, and stuck a spring on the end of the cable, LOL.
 

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I think my CEL bulb finally burned out lol. Usually it only takes 2 starts for my cel to come on but its not. The car also doesn't seem to try to adjust itself (mess with timing/idle and stuff) anymore.
What's with you guys? I've been driving my untuned 3.0 with headers and HFC in competition with no CEL's yet. I even pinned my IMRC open, and stuck a spring on the end of the cable, LOL.
The biggest problem is we cant have headers! The precats were already old, and the untuned 3L just killed em faster. Bad precat clogs main cat. Which then sets lean codes, egr code.

Had to delete the main cat because i couldn't afford to replace it every few months.

I also just realized i posted my car problems in the wrong thread, whoops.
 

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I mean, I'll admit, I went through a phase of having a constant light on, and ignoring it. But once I got things sorted out, I could never go back.
 

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if you get it tuned you wont have a check engine light
 

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No mil eliminators needed for 01/02.
Not sure what's different...
Car ran a little stronger and gas mileage improved when I did it.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 · (Edited)
That's because the downstream sensor on the 01/02 is after the main cat. :tongue:


So the latest news on our adventure is that we pulled the timing cover and front valve cover off. However, the timing cover won't come out until we remove the rear valve cover. Now, you may ask "Hey, why don't you just remove the rear valve cover?". My answer. Well. the rear engine hook covers the last bolt. The next course of action is try to remove the hook. That appears to be a bigger feat than it sounds. It was torqued down pretty good upon installation. Getting it from the top was a bust. We're going to try the breaker bar next. Not sure if the the impact will work with the angling of a universal. Any tips?
 

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A long wrench and a hammer?


What's the plan though? I thought Junior said you were swapping a 2.5 in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Going to inspect the damage and see if its salvageable. I can get the head repaired, hone the cylinder if its not destroyed, and I have a replacement piston thanks to Andre. If it is not repairable, I'm either going to have some stuff for sale or end up with the 2.5. I'm getting old..:rofl: If I didn't have the youngling helping me, this car would be gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Unfortunately there is no straight method of getting to that bolt. Its angled downward towards the firewall. We were barely able to get the ratchet on it. So we are going to try from below.
 
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