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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Meaning to post this up for a while now, but finally got around to hooking up the `ole digital camera again.

I wanted to take pics of the whole job, but since it was cold, and I just wanted to get it done, and it took a major breaker bar to get one or two of the bolts out, the following will hopefully suffice!

I'm posting this to give people that have no idea of a motor mount, some idea of what a motor mount is!!

I had a "clunk" in my drivetrain on accel from a standstill, and when my oil was getting changed in a shop, I took a look, and the rear mount was kaput. I could tell, because the rubber (shown below in the pics of the rear mount) was pretty cracked up, and the actual "mounting" was off center.

At any rate, check out the pics below... I'll try to add some descriptions...

Here's a picture of the old rear motor mount, still on the car:


Here's a picture of the old front mount, still on the car. Note that the rubber inside of the circle is not as filled in as in the rear mount:


The next three pics are of the new SVT front mount with an Energy Suspension insert designed to remove the flex. Note how the front mount has huge gaps that the insert is meant to fill:




Two more pics of the SVT rear mount replacing what I have. Although you can't "see" too much difference, that rubber in the SVT mount was very hard, and difficult to slide around with finger pressure. In the mount I removed, it was all cracked up, (the holes in the rubber were joined by cracks that ran between them), and you could slide it side to side, or compress it with light to moderate finger pressure (I can post pics of the old removed mount if requested):




After installation, the first thing I noticed was on startup. The cycle of ignition before it turned over seemed a bit faster, and more vibration on each cylinder firing. More constrained... more like the engine kicking back at you, instead of the car rocking to compensate. Initial driveability results... Hmm... Tighter off-to-on, or on-to-off power transitions. Less feeling of "slop". Pretty subjective, but overall, a better result than I expected to be honest.

I know I missed TONNES of info here. If anyone wants to jump in and give some background, or more info, please do so.

Massiv.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What were all of the advantages you got? What were the disadvantages?

For me, the adv's were as listed above. The disadvantages --> more vibration at idle. Especially at idle. Not too much more.

Massiv.
 

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Pro's:

Decreased wheelhop
Smoother downshifting
Instant power delivery to the ground
Much more powerful (feeling) upshifts

The more efficient delivery of power really feels like the car is more powerful, even though I know it's not.;) It definately maskes the car funner (sportier feeling) to drive.:)

Con's

No car for 2 days while urethane cures (Unless you have a spare set of mounts)
Noisy/harsh engine start
Significant vibration at idle (Especially with the A/C on)
Increased engine noise in cabin above 3500 RPM's


I used the hardest urethane I could find. Their is literally NO GIVE in this stuff. You could go with a more compliant urethane and lessen the amount of vibration and noise, and even just fill the front mount(the front mount has by far more play than the rear).

Here's a good how-to. It's for a different car, but as far as filling the mounts goes, it's the same procedure, just the removal and install is different. It also contains part numbers of the various urethanes.
 

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my ES motor mount inserts were red, and surprisingly squishy. they may have increased stifness in the front by about 5%.

how much is a used rear mount, you think? itd be worth it to get a second one & fill it with urethane & be able to drive while it cures, and be able to swap it out / sell it later
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Used mount has gotta be *really* cheap. Check www.car-part.com. I think I chucked mine... even though it was broken up, if you filled it, it might've worked out for you.

Massiv.
 

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i used the SEARCH button and found this old post.

how well is the full solid mount than the SVT MOUNTS AND ES BUSHINGS

i just ordered SVT front and rear SVT OE Transaxle Mounts - upgrade the 95-97 manual trans 2.5L V6 cars to the larger, heavier duty SVT transaxle mounts to reduce engine/trans movement and associated problems. A must for installing the Energy Suspension poly trans mount bushings.

and the ES bushings.

would this be sufficent enough for me or should i look into the solid mounts
 

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Going to agree here. I filled my front only when we did my headers last Easter break, and man it made a difference on the first startup and standstill to acell. The shifting in my car has gotten much smoother(mtx) and the downshifts are smoother as well. Upshifting now seems like the engine doesnt have that little kick in it when it used to rev and twist a little in the old mounts, now it seems to sit in place alot better...

Maybe its mental, but if you all are agreeing then I think I really did notice a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Agreed with both above, but as a counterpoint to those considering this mod. You really will feel a LOT more vibration. With just the inserts I felt *significantly* more vibes. If you fill it with the hardest urethane you can find, expect to feel every twitch of that engine. For many, especially if this is your A-B commuter, it's not worth it!

Massiv.
 

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Yup the vibration is pretty annoying on long trips I think I'm going to buy a new SVT rear mount and just swap out that mount for the filled one on track days. The front I'll leave in but the rear is where all the vibration comes from.
 

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How do I remove the rear motor mount? I managed to remove the front but the rear looks very hard. Please help
3 bolts on the chassis and the center bolt. It's very simple.
 
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