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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Knibbs wanted this thing out of his garage so sold it to me for super cheap a couple months ago...Up until then, I really had no intention of doing a 3.0 anytime in the next several years, but hey, some things are hard to pass up.
He sold it to me missing the timing cover, oil pan, valve covers, and pick up tube. He had begun to tear it down due to suspected valve problem, but didnt get very far before the owner discovered it was actually a PCM issue so decided not to bother with the rebuild after all, and apparently just left it with him.
03 Escape motor, I think he said around 140k???
I already had some spare valve covers, and the other missing pieces were readily available from Aircougar so except for some fasteners and other minor bits and pieces, Ive pretty much got a whole motor.

The Plan: full rebuild; all new seals, bearings, and rings. Valve job, honing and possibly small overbore (undecided), SVT cams, custom UIM and intake tract and maybe LIM as well, powdercoat/paint everything, hopefully have the rebuild done by about this time next year. My discretionary budget for unnecessary personal projects is pretty small, so it takes a little time to save up for the higher priced items. Luckily, my 2.5 is running great (knock on wood) so there isnt any huge rush for this. I will definitely be needing a tune and dont intend to install the motor until I also have the exhaust I want built, as well as an LSD so those will factor into the timeline as well.

This last week, I was able to actually start work and got the whole thing torn down. I made several videos of the process...the vids are intended primarily for my own use, to refer back to when I finally put this thing back together. Although I use a tone of teaching, they arent meant as tutorials for anyone but me, as this is the first time I've done this and dont really claim to know what I'm doing beyond what I read. I even say and do some things that I know are incorrect, so no need to heckle me for stupidity:tongue: By all means though, If you have constructive advise, feel free to share it. Also, no comments necessary about the cleanliness of my workspace...I'll say it for you; its a ____hole. :(

First vid: I had already pulled off the first head when I realized I should probably document what I was doing, so the vid is just a walkthrough of the engine on the stand minus the first head. I'm pretty sure I refer to it as an 04 and an 05 in these vids rather than ever actually calling it on 03...Not sure why I forgot that, just slow I guess! Also pretty funny when I dump coolant all over my floor and think about it for a second before just shrugging and moving on.

Second vid: Removing the water pump. You can watch me as I realize I did something stupid when I pull out one bolt that didnt actually need to come out. I dont admit the problem in the vid, but I definitely didnt need to pull out the short one.

Third vid: Removing the front head. Thanks to Aircougar for helping me out with this one via text...Had to ask him about the water pump drive pulley.

Fourth vid: Removing the oil pump. Probably could have skipped this one but I think I'll be glad I didnt a year from now when I'm trying to figure out which bolts go where...

Fifth vid: Removing pistons. I talk about being careful not to drop a piston in the vid, but after turning the camera off...I dropped one:banghead:

Sixth vid:
Removing the crank shaft and bulkhead.

So now I'm working on cleaning up all the pieces and slowly purchasing the replacement parts I'm going to need. Been Deburring the oil pan and timing cover this weekend...I think I might end up building my own sandblast/powdercoat booth/oven this fall...I've got a spare oil tank that would make an awesome vessel for it, just need to source some heating elements and stuff.

Anyway, here I go! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Couple pics to go with the vids:





 

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Very cool! I like the vids. I will watch this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Parts I think I NEED: (Need is a loose term...I could pirate some of these parts during the swap but dont really want to, and some of them probably could be reused but again, I prefer not to)
New Main Bearing
New Crank bearings (Including thrust)
New Crank oil seals (Front and rear)
New Rings
New Rod Bearings
New Pickup tube O-ring
New Valve springs
New Head Gaskets
New Head Bolts
New Rocker arms? (not sure about those)
New chains (Not sure about those either)
New or Used Pulse ring (was missing when I tore it down)
New Timing cover gasket
New or used Water bypass tube assy
New Oil pan gasket
New or used DMD and pulley (one assy?)
Used Dipstick tube and dipstick
New Valve cover gaskets (getting from stuartgrant)
New Oil cap
New Flywheel
New or used Fuel rail
New IACV
Used Upper Motor mount
New Belt tensioner
New Serp belt
New Water pump

This list is strictly to make the engine whole, there are additional things I will need that I'll worry about later.

If anyones got any of these kicking around that youll give me a good deal on, shoot me a PM, but please realize my budget is limited so I dont have any intention of buying everything at once, so I might not purchase immediately, but if its a good deal, I'll move it up the priority list.
 

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1993 3000GT VR4
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I can get you Clevite bearings and gates belts if you are interested. let me know what part numbers you want and I can get you pricing on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will do when its time to order those, thanks.
 

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All bottom end bolts are TTY (torque-to-yield) aka stretch bolts. It's recommended that you replace them, which can get $$$. However, I think most who install the Clevite bearings reuse the old bolts.
 

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3L Install Maestro
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If you have a limited budget why are you going about the 3L install in this manner? You will end up spending way more than buying a low mileage 3L motor you can drop in. I'd bet you'd end up spending 2 to 3 times as much if not more getting this motor up and running. It doesn't sound like you plan on some crazy FI build so I don't see what the point is unless you don't care about what you spend and want to learn more about building a motor (which is perfectly fine).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you have a limited budget why are you going about the 3L install in this manner? You will end up spending way more than buying a low mileage 3L motor you can drop in. I'd bet you'd end up spending 2 to 3 times as much if not more getting this motor up and running. It doesn't sound like you plan on some crazy FI build so I don't see what the point is unless you don't care about what you spend and want to learn more about building a motor (which is perfectly fine).
In the long run, you might be right. There are a couple of reasons though:
1. He sold me the motor for $50 so by the time I finish, theres a good chance I'll still be under many peoples conversion cost.
2. I have never liked the idea of taking someone elses used motor and dropping it in without replacing all the software, so I would end up doing all this work no matter what, thus costing me just as much. I know most people dont rebuild before installing, but thats just not for me. If I'm getting a new motor, I want a NEW motor.
3. Its way easier for me to spread the expense out over time than to convince my wife (and myself) to drop $2k in one shot on something I dont really need. $50 here, $100 there is much easier to swallow.
4. Its more fun this way.
5. Success or failure will be entirely my doing. If it runs like a bat out of hell, it will be because I made it that way. If something goes wrong, I will be more likely to figure out why faster, and wont be able to blame anyone but myself.
6. I do everything the hard way.
 

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3L Install Maestro
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That's fine but keep in mind a good low mileage 3L with a warranty from a junk yard will run you in the $400 - $600 range and if your lucky one might be local (plus core if they charge it). If it isn't local tack another $200 onto that. Then you still have to prep the block/heads though.

As far as software you would need a tune if you get some 19lb injectors. I don't recommend running stock 17lb injectors in a 3L. You can do it but it's a bad idea. If you don't stick with the IMRC in the 2.5L lower intake that would require tuning as well.

I'm sure it will be more fun tearing it down and building it up. Keep posting more pictures and updates. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Will do, thanks. Lost the camera so I'll have to get caught up. The timing cover and oil pan are all cleaned up, deburred, and shiny, ready for blasting and coating. Also cleaned up the bottom block half and the heads, but will probably do a little deburring on those as well.
I've already obtained an oval port LIM with injectors still installed so should be GTG there, just need to get a proper fuel rail and I'm still debating building a custom LIM to go with the custom UIM I'm definitely (probably) going to build. Still researching all that...

Will definitely be needing a tune on this build.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Couple pics...
LIM w/ injectors:


One of the heads: (not all the way clean yet but getting there)

01 Alt bracket:

Oil pan fully prepped:



Timing cover fully prepped:

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Picked up the SVT cams & TG, upper motor mount, and pulse wheel today:)
Maybe I'll work on chopping down the mount this weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I guess this post in another thread technically belongs to this thread since this is the block I'm using...

ten years later...I wasn't kidding when I said "very slow" :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I have a cylinder hone in the mail to clean up the cylinders, then I need to get some crank bearings and install the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got the block on the stand and started making some head gasket templates. I will be making some aluminum "gaskets" to protect the seating surface and passages while I hone the cylinders. Hoping to hone next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Not crazy. Hopefully just a few seconds per cylinder should clean them up and get the right finish. Your probably right that it's overkill for just honing,
those covers will stay in place for a while until I get the heads installed though so they serve a longer-term purpose.

It might be winter before I get heads installed. I've got so many parallel things going on its insane. I don't think normal people live this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Your probably right...I do tend to over-complicate. Its my nuclear power background.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ended up making some covers out of an old plastic tote lid instead of aluminum, that worked out pretty good because I could cut it with a knife.
Got the cylinders honed and everything cleaned back up again.
I did a good job containing the mess below the engine but could have done better with the mess above the engine. Got oil everywhere. I did think to make myself a garbage bag apron but should have put up some garbage bag walls around the area too.
After cleaning everything up really good I coated the cylinders with some 20/50 oil so that should stick pretty good. It was thick enough that it didn't really absorb into blue shop paper towels at all.
Overall I'm very happy with how the evolution went and condition of the cylinders. I'll wipe them down again before I install the pistons.
New main bearings and oil seals are in the mail so hopefully I'll get the crank installed next weekend. I need to procure a dial indicator and some snap gauges...
 
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