the only thing on my car that is jimmy rigged is the throttle cable. thats because i actually could not get the stinkin thing out. BUT, i will show you what i did, it was much easier and only caused me issues once. shoot me a text 5098505418. ill take some pics when im in the shop and text them to you.
Trying to power up the fuel pump, seems like PATS is keeping me down.
Ty gave me two ECU's and two keys (both cut the same) for this car, and we cant seem to find a combination that works.
Need suggestions for how to proceed.
I think the system works like this:
The PATS module recieves the required code from the ECU, compares that code to the one it recieves from the RFID in the key, and returns a go/no-go signal to the ECU.
Can anyone confirm or correct me?
I think my options are:
1. Get a new ECU with key
2. Figure out some way to bypass the PATS (dont know how to do that unless I build a new circuit for the fuel pump, but I'm not sure if the ECU shuts down any other functions)
3. Somehow get my current ECU's and Keys to play nice together.
Possibly relevant - when I put the SVT ECU in my car with the new key chip a few years back, it didn't want to start. After I walked away for a while and came back to it, it fired right up. Not sure how or why a little time helped, but that was my experience.
The fuel pump is turning on for a couple seconds then turning off before there's time to do anything with it.
We've got the supply and return hoses connected together so fuel should just flow back to the tank.
Dad was hoping the pump would run long enough to confirm which hose was which (without crawling under the car) and then to connect the external FPR and set the pressure.
Its been my belief that on the return system, the pump should run continuously once the key is turned to on but that's not whats happening.
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