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Discussion Starter #1
This thread for questions on my 3.0 build. I'm building a full 3.0.

1. Coolant crossover tube/sensor assembly - Do I use the one from the 2.5 or from the 3.0?

2. Clarify what the deal is with the oil pressure sensor? I think I need to adapt the 3.0 sensor to the 2.5 wire connector...is that right?

3. I have an SVT oil cooler...Where does it get plumbed into the water lines at?
 

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This thread for questions on my 3.0 build. I'm building a full 3.0.

1. Coolant crossover tube/sensor assembly - Do I use the one from the 2.5 or from the 3.0?

2. Clarify what the deal is with the oil pressure sensor? I think I need to adapt the 3.0 sensor to the 2.5 wire connector...is that right?

3. I have an SVT oil cooler...Where does it get plumbed into the water lines at?
Since I built a hybrid, I can't really comment on 1 and 2.

But #3 is a universal application, so I've done that.

If you mount up the cooler and lay the hoses out where they're molded, it becomes obvious. If I recall correctly, it replaces most of the molded hose coming off the bottom of the water pump. One oil cooler hose connects to the heater hose near the starter - there's already a junction there, so all you have to do is pull it apart and hook up the cooler hose in place of the OEM. The other end goes into the bottom f the water pump, using a portion of the OEM molded hose that you cut to fit.

NOTE: The 3.0 block has a casting ear that is right in the way of the oil cooler lines, so you have to take a sawzall to it and make room. The CD4E transaxle bolts up there, where the MTX-75 does not.

EDIT: I've seen some diagrams for the 01 and 02 Cougar that suggest there is a junction in the hose so you don't have to cut it. That could be the case as well. In any case, the oil cooler replaces the highlighted portion of hose shown here.

 

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Crossover tube if I remember right is plastic on the 3.0, and I don't think the sensor plug worked on the 3.0 sensor the metal crossover tube should bolt on from the 2.5.


Oil sensor you should be able to swap the sensor from your 2.5 if its good. Saves the cutting and splicing the harness if the plug isnt right.

The wire harness plugs vary so much from year to year and engine to engine, but the threads for threading into the block are normally close enough to swap or close enough to use a thread adapter. Saves you splicing harnesses and creating possible bad wiring faults later. It's always best to use the sensors that went with the ECM you're trying to use.

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1. 2.5L

2. You can do it that way or swap. Or don't connect it at all because its basically worthless if that comes on, it's already over.

3. B3nnets drawing is accurate. I would make sure the cooler is clean and was not on a blown motor.
 

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2.5L crossover tube

2.5 oil sensor, or as stated, leave it unplugged.

Clearance block for coolant lines from cooler, one side goes to bottom of water pump, other side goes to heater hose connection near the starter.

You will more than likely have an issue with the knock sensor, in all my experiences the hole in the 3.0 block is larger than the 2.5 sensor. This is where i splice the 2.5 plug onto the 3.0 sensor. Or you might be able to get a thread adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cougar fuel pump adequate for NA 3.0 with injectors from the 3.0? (24#?)
 

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Folks rarely change out the fuel pump with a swap unless they are running some sort of boost.

I think you should benchmark Skater's build. It's relatively unmodified full 3.0.
 

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I've only seen 3 have the pump replaced. One was stangkillers car, no clue what he had done that would require it. My silver car which had a nitrous kit installed on it. And my black car which ended up with the same nitrous kit and a 3.0 in it. Never heard of it being an issue without something crazy going with it.

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Discussion Starter #9
Thats what I thought, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I knew FI required more flow, just wasnt sure about the 24# injectors on NA cars. A few posts in the 3.0 threads are wishy washy about it and unclear.
 

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my 24s were getting close on my power goals so my next choice was 32s. im not sure id the zetec fuel pump is different then the v6 cougars but i ran a zetec pump on my n/a 3L for a while
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What do you mean close on your power goals?
Shouldnt the engine be limited by how much air it can ingest and therefore only need X amount of fuel?
Were you throwing lean codes?
 

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What do you mean close on your power goals?
Shouldnt the engine be limited by how much air it can ingest and therefore only need X amount of fuel?
Were you throwing lean codes?
no i was excepting 20 more hp and the injectors according to some calculators were past 80% duty cycle. so i figured id rather keep it safe and go up a step
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dad is in the process of tearing down my donor 2.5 right now, and ran into some questions about the timing.
I referred him to the timing page out of the 2.5 build manual, but hes got some concerns about the motor in front of him not really looking like that drawing.

The build manual we have on this site is for a 2001. Are there any changes from the earlier motors or the SVT that the 2001 manual doesnt address correctly?

Does anyone have a good photo of a properly timed 2.5 (preferably with SVT cams) from the front that shows the correct markings?
 

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https://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0l-duratec-performance/177458-gentle-its-my-first-time-timing.html

The engine was timed correctly in these pictures. The Mark's on the chains are just there for setting the timing the first time. And then I think it takes like 60 or so rotations for them to line back up to the initial position.

The cams go in at there neutral position. Cylinder #1 needs to be at top dead center. Top dead center is 11'o clock on the crankshaft. That's when the first chain goes on (the right hand side). Theres a tick mark on the sprocket on the crankshaft, it will be in the 7'oclock position. Once you put the first chain on you rotate the crank to 3'oclock and put the other chain on (Left hand side).

I'm pretty sure I marked those cams with LL LR RL RR
"LL" being left head left cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks, thats a help.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Knock sensor - Did the '99 2.5 have one? I'm getting conflicting information...

"Yes" indications:
-My wiring manual shows one on the schematic
-Parts sources list one

"No" indications:
-The wiring manual doesnt show one actually attached to any of the wiring harnesses.
-I looked on a 99 at the junkyard and couldnt find one.
-I'm not finding any connectors for it on my wiring harnesses
 

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Yeah for some reason I'm thinking there were some 2.5's that came with them and some that didn't. Just like the 2-bolt vs 4-bolt control arms; you get what you get, and there's no way of knowing without getting under there and looking.
 
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