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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have the different port size dimensions for regular 2.5, SVT, and 3.0 LIM's?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Followup question: Can anyone tell me what size the intake valve holes are?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, Rik... are the bottom sides pretty close to the intake valve hole sizes?
 

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Valve sizes:

2.5L -
Intake Valve: 32mm (1.26”)
Exhaust Valve: 26mm (1.02”)

3.0L -
Intake Valve: 35mm (1.38”)
Exhaust Valve: 30mm (1.18”)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Can anyone tell me the depth of the LIM? (how long are the runners in the LIM?)
Also, does anyone know the depth of the holes in the head, from the valve seats to the top?

Im ultimately trying to figure out the total depth from the valve seats to the top of the LIM
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Can anyone tell me the depth of the LIM? (how long are the runners in the LIM?)
Also, does anyone know the depth of the holes in the head, from the valve seats to the top?

Im ultimately trying to figure out the total depth from the valve seats to the top of the LIM
3.0 heads are 4" deep to the intake valves
3.0 head inlet ports are 58mm X 27mm
2.5 LIM is 3" deep
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ST220 LIM:
Top holes - 62mm x 29mm
Bottom holes - 58mm x 25.4mm
Depth - 58mm
 

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Hello, I am reading the forum slowly, and seeing the measurements of this post.
I wonder if the ducts of the upper part of the LIM? (top of intake manifold) change diameter from version 2.5 to 2.5 STV (st200) to 3.0 St220 Jagua AJ30?
Logically I would say yes but seeing that the difference are millimeters in the inputs and outputs I wonder if in the tube travel varies the diameter, I guess it will change more in the short tube and high width.
Can it be enlarged manually?
why buy and adapt the superior model to gain so little power do not know if it is profitable ...

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello, I am reading the forum slowly, and seeing the measurements of this post.
I wonder if the ducts of the upper part of the LIM? (top of intake manifold) change diameter from version 2.5 to 2.5 STV (st200) to 3.0 St220 Jagua AJ30?
Logically I would say yes but seeing that the difference are millimeters in the inputs and outputs I wonder if in the tube travel varies the diameter, I guess it will change more in the short tube and high width.
Can it be enlarged manually?
why buy and adapt the superior model to gain so little power do not know if it is profitable ...

Thank you
Yes, there are differences. I havent got all the differences documented yet but I am using this thread to do so as I gather data.
Make sure you understand that the 3.0 engines have a different design altogether, with six oval shaped runners instead of twelve round runners. So even though I am discussing all the manifolds in this thread, they arent easily switched between 2.5 and 3.0 motors.
The answer to your question of "Why?" lies with each individual person to decide which intake best suits them. We dont have good scientifically gathered data to prove any one design is better than the others because nobody has gone through the trouble of gathering that data in a controlled environment.
 

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I think I have not expressed myself well again.
I do not doubt that an air intake of a larger displacement model is better.
I understand how the 170cv works and the 205cv of 2.5 of 6 + 6 tubes
I do not know how the 3.0 out of 6 tubes work

As my car is the 2.5 of 170 HP I have several possibilities:

1º Clean the entire intake system and EGR
2º Clean and enlarge this system a bit
3º Add a 65mm butterfly
4th Buy a set of St200 or STV that are difficult to find here but it could be done and there is a lot of information.
5th Buy a Lim of a Jaguar S-Type that on ebay Uk are very economical. And try adapting or making a hybrid

I am between the 1st, 2nd and 5th point

I find this thread of the forum very interesting and if I get some Lim Jaguar I plan to measure it and upload its measures

Because I think it is important to understand them and see the difference in measures

I have always wondered in the 2.5 of 170 cv and the STV 205cv how much power is for the intake manifold as for the exhaust system and how much for the camshafts.

Algien has tried to clean and enlarge a little the intake manifold of the 2.5 st 170 hp?

I leave the link to see the prices of jaguar admission collectors

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/459415-xr8e9424ag-Intake-manifold-Inlet-Manifold-xr8e-9424-ag-Jaguar-S-Type/113385560546?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170920101022%26meid%3D259e11e7175144fe97c12aa684bdac67%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D132870419886%26itm%3D113385560546&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-JAGUAR-S-TYPE-3-0-RHD-INLET-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-4R8E9425AA/263726999418?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Df17cf5bd51cf472e8da105c504f89345%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D113385560546%26itm%3D263726999418&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 

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Discussion Starter #16
1. Cleaning is free and not difficult. Do not hesitate to do this.
2. There are a few things that can be done easily. "Optimizing" your throttle body and lower manifold is easy and free. http://tutorials.newcougar.org/HowToOptimizeTB.pdf
3. 65mm throttle is a proven upgrade, but for best results you should pair this with an ST200 upper manifold.
4. The ST200/SVT manifold is a proven upgrade that requires very little work. If you decide later that you arent happy with it, you can always re-sell the parts and make your money back.
5. I attempted to install a 3.0 upper intake manifold onto the 2.5 lower manifold using adapter plates. I was not successful due to vacuum leaks I couldnt stop. I think it could be done, but there is a great deal of "Trial and error" involved.
I would not try it if you need your car as a daily driver. https://www.newcougar.org/forums/2-5l-duratec-performance/196713-edit-*scrapped-again*-project-3-0-uim-2-5-a.html
 

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Still - no matter how much optimization you do, you're still working with only 2.5 liters of naturally-aspirated displacement. With relatively low compression. That juice isn't worth the squeeze when you're fighting for fractions of a horsepower point.

Work on increasing your grip for the REAL dividends.

The thing I enjoyed most about my 2.5 was its responsiveness. The SVT throttle body, paired with the lightened flywheel, gave such terrific throttle response.

Stainless braided brake lines and upgraded pads gave terrific braking response.

PRT billet front subframe bushings and energy suspension rear trailing arm bushings, along with a rear strut tower brace and larger rear sway bar and proper sticky tires, gave it terrific steering response and turn-in.

Even though the 2.5 was gutless - even after all the intake and exhaust modifications I made to it - the car STOPPED when you braked, it REVVED when you throttled it, and it TURNED IN when you moved the tiller. No lag, no delay, instant gratification.
 

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Strongly agree with the two.
The Cougar is a whim, I bought it a few months ago in very bad condition and little by little with new parts I'm preferably restoring it with low budget.
The cars that we use to go to work are other luckily.

Precisely I'm with the suspension, bushings, crooked bars, brakes ... little by little


I do not know what power I guess many CVs died in these years and bad treatment

But improving the admission economically seems to me ineresante, I will start cleaning and looking for a collector of admission 3.0 and think how to adapt it (and look for a superior admission STV economica, is dificl)
I have a 3D printer that I have to learn to use ... (for adapting parts)

Did not know that you could mount an upper STV or 3.0 on the lower 2.5 170cv?

The 3.0 has an accelerator of 65mm or higher?
For 2.5 65mm throttle engine is the maximum efficient? that does not miss and that it does not

I also want to see the output of gases that is "too silent" I like silent but not plugged, but as that leads me to the probes and catalysts I'm leaving for the end.

By the way I have seen that some collectors of superior admissions in Jaguar that have a thermal insulation so that the motor does not warm them I wonder if the collector of inferior admission is metallic or of some material that does not transmit the heat.

I believe that improving the breathing and exhaust of an engine is not only to gain a little power (maybe very little) but if you gain in response consumption and pollute less ...

Let's see if clean and depaso I win some tenths

Thank you
 

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The 2.5 manifolds will not bolt directly to the 3.0 engine. HOWEVER - you can replace the cylinder heads of the 3.0 with the 2.5 cylinder heads, and then any 2.5 parts will bolt on seamlessly. This is how my 3.0 is constructed. This also serves to increase the static compression ratio for more power.

The stock SVT 2.5 intake manifolds were restricting my 3.0, so I upgraded to a polished SVT LIM with removed secondary valves, an SVT UIM with max-extrude treatment, and a 70mm throttle body from a 5.4L V8 that was modified to work with a 2.5 linkage by PRT Autosport. It breathes well; I think the only restriction now is the 2.5 heads and valves, which I don't plan to change - not worth the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did not know that you could mount an upper STV or 3.0 on the lower 2.5 170cv?
The SVT (ST200) upper will bolt to the standard 2.5 lower. If your car is an 01 or 02, you probably already have an SVT specification lower manifold. If your car is a 99 or 00, you probably do not. They will still bolt together, but you may wish to do some modifications to your lower for a better transition. Or just purchase the newer lower and no modifications necessary.
The 3.0 uppers do not easily fit on the 2.5 lowers without lots of work.
The 3.0 has an accelerator of 65mm or higher?
I think its a 60 mm throttle from the factory, but would need to verify.

For 2.5 65mm throttle engine is the maximum efficient? that does not miss and that it does not
Larger than 65 may result in reduced precision control of the throttle. Above 65mm, the throttle is no longer the smallest point in the flowpath, so no, theres not much value in going larger on a naturally aspirated 2.5l.
I also want to see the output of gases that is "too silent" I like silent but not plugged, but as that leads me to the probes and catalysts I'm leaving for the end.
There are a couple of companies that manufacture headers for our exhaust. Most people are happy with the results.
If you arent ready to buy headers, than removing the catalyst material from inside your factory exhaust manifolds is a cheap way to gain a small amount of exhaust performance.
http://tutorials.newcougar.org/HowToRemoveExhaustManifoldsandPreCats.pdf
 
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