talked with vortech yesterday and they dont have any information on it, and they had those parts made so they couldnt even point me to a supplier. sent me to a couple other places but no luck there either
I was wondering about the allen head statement as well. I know nothing about the design and specification of bolts. What determines a bolts thread contact? I assume it has something to do with how deep the threads are cut, but then I'm sure there are fine limits there. :shrug:
Gord's right, the thread form is the same unless you buy really special fasteners, and hex head or socket head it's all rolled thread with a 60 degree profile.
A higher grade fastener is harder, meaning it'll take more load without permanently deforming, but when they do deform it's not by much before they snap all together, rarely will simply increasing the grade of fasteners do much good if you were breaking them to begin with as they have similar "Ultimate Strength" to lower grade fasteners. It's usually better to either upsize a fastener or increase the number.
Threaded fasteners might as well be called threaded un-fasteners. When you think about them as a basic machine, they're an inclined plane rotated about an axis, and things roll down an inclined plane. In practice this means that vibration causes loosening of fasteners. The contact area of the bolt head has a lot to do the resistance of a fastener from unscrewing, this is part of why all suspension fasteners have an extra large flange on them. Washers aren't much good at preventing unthreading, even spring washers, about the only system that really works are Nordlock's and that stuff's pretty expensive.
In short, use loctite, or tap out the hole bigger.
Good stuff! I knew there was a reason in my head I wanted a flangged bolt head when I recently needed to source a new bolt for my oil pump that I stripped the threads out. BTW 108 in/lbs is not the same as 208 in/lbs. :banghead:
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