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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How should I take it out? The top or the bottom? Thought and suggestions on how to do each would be awesome. BTW this is in my SVT.
Bill
 

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do u have access to a lift or are u going to be doing it in the driveway. air tools or handtools?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do u have access to a lift or are u going to be doing it in the driveway. air tools or handtools?
No chassis lift, but I have access to air tool/hand tools, motor lift, and a engine stand. I am going to be doing it in my 30x40x10 pole barn, along with buddy of mine and hopefully some more people if I can get some to help.
 

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be alot easier to just remove it out the top then.
 

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be alot easier to just remove it out the top then.
You didn't do well on your SAT tests, did you?




Put the car on jackstands. Pull the front wheels, brakes, suspension, axles, and Y pipe. Remove the battery and tray, air intake, and starter. Have the engine supported from the top now. Unbolt the radiator from the subframe and support it from the top as well (radio DIN tools work great for this). Remove front and rear roll resistors and shift cables.

You have choice as to what to do with the steering rack - You can either leave it in the car, or pull it with the subframe. I always leave it in the car. To do that, unbolt three of the subframe bolts so it hangs down a bit. Now unbolt the cover over the steering rack, and take out the two bolts that holds the rack itself in. You'll be able to tell when it's loose. I hold it up by the tie rod ends with bungee cords up through the strut towers.

There will be at least one bracket for the PS line on the subframe, remove that, and you should be ready to drop the subframe. Once that's out, support the transaxle from the bottom, take out the bellhousing bolts, and the top trans mount. You should be able to drop the trans at this point.



If you do what Fordrule suggested, you are pulling the engine too. *shrugs* Not how I'd do it. I've done three of them this way.
 

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blah..i have a how to stickied on top of this section that i took it out from the bottom.

waders....


becareful because the mount bolts of the subframe to the unibody bolts may strip out.....
 

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I agree... ANd yes I use the radio DIN tools too for the radiator!! :biggrin:
Ha! They work great!!



becareful because the mount bolts of the subframe to the unibody bolts may strip out.....
Yup...happened to my silver car. There weren't so much stripped out, but on the rear driver's side mounting point, the nut that is welded inside the frame was just spinning. I had to cut a chunk out of the floor pan to hold it. That part of the floor ended up being rubber, so it wasn't that big of a deal, but more of a pain in the ass than it needed to be.
 

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Ha! They work great!!


:biggrin: I am doing a 3L swap right now for a CEGer, and I'm using them to hold the radiator up! :rofl:


Yup...happened to my silver car. There weren't so much stripped out, but on the rear driver's side mounting point, the nut that is welded inside the frame was just spinning. I had to cut a chunk out of the floor pan to hold it. That part of the floor ended up being rubber, so it wasn't that big of a deal, but more of a pain in the ass than it needed to be.
Happens ALL the time!! The rear 2 bolts are the worst usually, and i've seen one front one on the driver's side do it, too... I use a 1.25" hole saw to cut a hole on the outside, use a 21mm wrench to hold the nut in place, and tighten or loosen it... I was lucky on this SVT today, though! None were spinning, and it was made in 1997!!! Very clean car! :)
 
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