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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, err, I guess that's what you'd call it. I had a little extra time and finally finished the install on the kit. Last night I changed my spark plugs to a copper core 1 heat range colder with a gap of 0.40". Took me about 45 mins to do that as it was pretty straight forward. I also had to the run main bottle feed.

Today I went and got the bottle filled at Summit Racing. Cost me $50 at $4.80 per pound. Ouch. I will have to look if there are cheaper sources. I got back, installed the bottle, and opened the valve. Checked for leaks and didn't see any frost on the connections. Tried out my purge valve...hehe...I will probably end up wasting more that way because it's so cool to see it shoot out right in front of the windshield!

Anyways, I tried out the 55hp setting for a couple of runs...mind you I have an ATX. From a standstill it was pretty good as I actually put down some rubber. I was kind of surprised because I've got TSW HockR 18s and BFGoodrich Comp T/As and they have alot of solid tread contacting the pavement and but aren't the lightest rim.

I went back and put the 75hp jets in and went out. Tried again from a standstill and got some wheel hop and good pull. Hard to find decent flately paved roads around here so it was kind of rough. If I put my 16s back on they probably wouldn't last long.

During this whole trialt I had been listening for detonation/pinging and didn't hear a thing. I had no problems, nothing out of the ordinary happened, and really think the 100hp jets are in order.

Definately a 10 out of 10. Possibly even higher for us with the automatics since they are so sluggish and you can't install a supercharger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Uh...I waived it bye bye 5k miles ago when my warranty ran out but I've never had to take it in for any issue.

You could probably uninstall it all under 2 hours and take it in for any work that needed to be done. Now if you burned a piston then I think they would be able to diagnose what really happened pretty quickly. That's not going to happen if you don't run lean by hitting the fuel cutoff and your fuel pump is strong. Plus you run colder plugs to avoid any detonation that may occur. From what I have read, the auto tranny handles the extra power better plus you don't dump/slip the clutch like a manual. Don't get me wrong, I would love to have the manual instead if I had a choice. If I plan on running this alot in the future, I will probably invest in a tranny cooler and add some synthetic ATF.

There are risks for everything in life...nothing is foolproof. The big question is can you handle the possible consequences? If you can't then don't do it.
 

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Glad you like it, but I would not run a 100-shot on a stock motor.
 
G

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well im sure the dealer could tell unless you rip out all the throttle attachments and the hosing. but thats a lot of work. also becuase the oxygen is heavier in a NOS setup, the cylinders will have a bluish tint to them if they were to take the block apart, thats a tell tale sign of NOS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
NOS is an abbreviation of Nitrous Oxide Systems, a Holley brand, not nitrous gas.

mprtklr, since you've seemed to have installed the ZEX system and have first hand knowldege, you must know how hard and how much work it is to install and take out. A whole lot of throttle attachments and complicated hose there. It may be too much work, for you.

Anyone might want to uninstall it for any service unrelated to the engine because they can be dicks about it, give you a hard time, and try to deny warranty on your whole car which they can't do.

I tried to be careful and not to give people the idea that if you damage your engine or tranny with nitrous, you'll have nothing to worry about as it will be fixed under warranty. I get the vibe that's what your trying to rebut. Maybe I'm wrong.
 
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i bet your one of those people who think Nitrogen is actually what your detonating on a NOS system huh?? hmm, interesting.
 
G

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ehhhh wrong again, nitrogen gas in a tank has a higher percentage of oxygen. outside air has about a 20% concentration of Oxygen and 60% nitrogen. a NOS system has about 45% oxygen and about 40% nitrogen. the more oxygen is what produces more power. nothing is broken down. nitrogen itself is NOT combustible, it is the higher concentration of oxygen in the mixture that produces the more power. it is a 10-1 ratio. so 20% oxygen produces 100% of an engines HP and a 40% oxygen will produce 200% engine power and so forth. that what the "shot" means. a 100 shot is 100% more power which equates to a full 100% shot of nitrogen. same with a 75 shot, that would be 75% or about a 35% mixture.


wheh that was longer than i hoped.
 

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from NOS's FAQ:


<< Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion
process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F., nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "inter cooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F
>>



and maybe ZEX markets their nitrous kit differently than most other companies but usually a "50 shot" refers to an appx 50 HP increase, a 75 shot refers to a 75 HP increase, etc......
 
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Nitrogen is not combustible? Tell that to the poor folks that flew over on the Hindenburg. That's the reason blimps use helium now.
 
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